Author |
Message |
Matt (Hgtech)
Rating: Votes: 1 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, February 23, 2006 - 7:54 pm: | |
Ok, I've got a couple of questions about removing the OTR heat from our 79 Silver Eagle. Let me point this out first, I'm not interested in reasons I should or shouldn't remove the OTR heat - we've already made the decision. For reference, we've already removed the OTR A/C. Also for reference, here are our reasons for removing the OTR heat. 1. Less Weight (removing blowers, duct work, coils, hosing, etc.) 2. It can only be used when the engine is running (we spend alot of time with the engine off) 3. Downsize of alternator (we can remove the 300+ amp Neihoff(sp) alternator and replace it with a smaller 150 amp alternator that can be driven off a pulley on the engine. 4. Extra space in the back bay (if we remove the heater and a/c cores, the back bay will have more room - they stick out into the back bay) Here are my questions: Will removing the heater core from the coolant circulation path have a negative impact on the coolant system (keep in mind that valves are in place from the factory to bypass the heater core during the summer)? For those of you who have done this before, are there any precautions or possible pitfalls I should be aware of? Thanks - Matt 1979 Silver Eagle Model 05 |
david anderson (Davidanderson)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, February 23, 2006 - 9:46 pm: | |
Hey Matt, I removed mine on my 1985 Metro 10. There were 2 one inch lines coming off the left and right side of the block and a smaller return line to the intake side of the water pump. Each line off the block had a pump on it. They "Y" (wyed) together to an 1 1/4"~1 1/2 line. I can't remember. I pulled out the Y and all the heat exchangers and left only one pump and capped the second line. The lines to the front remain and I bought some Danhard heaters (7K btu's each), (one for driver heat, one for defroster.) I plumbed all this together and wired the pump via relay to turn on when I need heat in the cockpit. If you drive in below freezing weather, you need lots of heat at 70mph. It gets cold up front. If you do away with all this plumbing, you need an alternate heat system up front or you will be very uncomfortable traveling down the road in cold weather. So, the answer to your querie is: yes, you can remove it. No changes in engine cooling have been noticed. David Anderson 1985 Houston Metro Eagle 10 |
Matt (Hgtech)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, February 24, 2006 - 2:01 am: | |
Thanks David, You also answered a question I forgot to ask - what does everyone typically do to replace the old bus defrost / driver heat system. I don't currently have a heater boost pump installed (it was removed at some point and time). Is it really necessary to get proper circulation to the front of the bus? Seems like I remember reading that the 8v71 water pump was plenty strong on its own. Also, did you have to buy any adapters / fittings to get things working? Thanks - Matt 1979 Silver Eagle Model 05 |
Prather
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, February 24, 2006 - 8:51 am: | |
I took mine out of my 72 05, plugged the lines and put in a 135 gal fresh water tank where the heat and air was. I didn't have a extra water pump and my defroster/heater works just fine. No noticable difference in engine cooling. My system was between two fuel saddle tanks, I don't know if your 79 is set up the same or not |
Matt (Hgtech)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, February 24, 2006 - 11:13 am: | |
Also, does anyone know what removing the OTR heat changes the coolant capacity to? I'm sure it has to have some effect on it. Prather, Sounds like your setup is the same as mine. The majority of my OTR heat and a/c equipment is between the two fuel tanks. David, I'd like to know more about the Danhard heaters you purchased if you don't mind. Mainly the model number and how much I could expect to pay for them. Thanks - Matt 1979 Silver Eagle Model 05 |
david anderson (Davidanderson)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, February 24, 2006 - 12:24 pm: | |
I bought the Danhards from JC Whitney catalog. Can't remember the price, but check their winter catalogs. I guess Prather answered your question about the pump. Apparantly there is enough flow to make the circuit without it. The change in cooling capacity was insignificant as far as I remember. I flushed my system and went 70% distilled water 30% Fleetcharge for summer and 50/50 in the winter. I still have the 300 amp Niehoff. I use it to run the inverter down the road. I'll keep it till it craters, then I may install two smaller alternators. I haven't gotten to that point yet. David |
David Evans (Dmd)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, February 25, 2006 - 7:58 pm: | |
Matt, our 4-71 water pump moved plenty up front in our 35' coach, no booster pump needed. |
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