| Author | Message | ||
| Malcolm
Rating: N/A |
We have decidied to go with manufactured siding for our XL, We know Prevost dose them, We also know Int bus parts in FL also makes them. Unfortunitly we ordered from them, we sat waiting for parts for three weeks, which they never sent so i am trying to located anather supplyer. Have you guys got any suggestions. I know some of you have had them custom made in aluminum, we have checked into it and decided to go with pre-made parts. Any help as alway will be apreciated. On a diffrent note; regarding insurance we went with century 21 for fully comp-insurance, we got fully comp even tho the bus is under construction. Thanks to everyone for all your advice. | ||
| Pat Bartlett (Muddog16)
Rating: N/A |
Malcolm, I started not to reply, but I thought heck, why not? I'm not sure why you didn't consider the custom made panels but I guess it was your choice, I know I saved about 1,700 bucks getting the custom panels, yes they are thicker panels, but there isn't a wrinkle or wave anywhere in them. I used an original panel as a template. These were 5052 Alum. The fabricator did an awesome job. I know that another from our board here also used them. But I'll let him speak for himself about these panels! I am not affililated with this company in any way, and I don't get a kick back either! One thing for sure even with freight it will save you money and they are beautifully made! But like they say here part of the magic is doing it your way! Good luck in your choice! Pat http://prevostlemirage.blogspot.com/ | ||
| Malcolm
Rating: N/A |
Hi Pat, Here is where we are at $108.00 a sheet, they are 4'x 12' and then we are having trouble finding some one that can roll and bend the metal for us. the on place we did find wanted $180.00 just to roll one sheet of metals for us. Please e-mail us your sorces information so i can call them, and get a quote. I think your looks great, we are looking to do the same. thanks in advance. Malcolm BTW: where are the jacking points on a 1981 Prevost Le Mirage. | ||
| Pat Bartlett (Muddog16)
Rating: N/A |
Malcolm I emailed you, the problem with the 12' wide stuff is that no one can roll anything that long, I believe the Prevost panels are 60" x 84", it takes 5 on each side. One other thing these panels come covered with a plastic film, you remove when you install, nothing like protecting the goods, after all this is what people will see when your all finished! Good luck! Pat http://prevostlemirage.blogspot.com/ | ||
| Pat Bartlett (Muddog16)
Rating: N/A |
I missed the question about lift points in your email. I did the ole cut n paste here is the post I made on Feb 14th. Malcolm Bryce Robson, used a method of raising his roof, that for Prevosts was the only one I found when I was getting ready to raise mine. Bryces method was simple and easy. I actually spent more time thinking about it than doing the roof raise. I'm sure Marcs methods are just as good! One point Marc raised was, are you indoors or out. I don't have a large shop to bring mine inside, I know that Bryce did his indoors also. What I did was purchase a small laser level from Lowe's, ($80). One evening after dark armed with this laser level I proceded to shoot the concrete the bus was sitting on from front to rear. I knew when I built my house that I sloped the driveway in two directions away and from the house. With the laser at the front of the bus I took measurements at the rear of the front wheel wells(there is a major support beam located there on both drivers and passengers side). Then I moved to the rear drive wheels on both sides and took measurements again (using the laser which I could see on my measuring tape) I recorded all of my measurements on a drawing of the bus. I now knew how much cribbing I needed at each point. At the rear I used the rear axle support for leveling the rear of the bus. I used good oak cribbing it will not crush as will pressure treated lumber. After leveling my bus I checked with the laser in the main cabin to make sure it agreed. I put the laser in the front of the cabin on the floor the laser beam was 2 inches off of the floor,(that is the way it was made) I just made sure that I had the same two inches on all four corners inside the cabin. I didn't block in the middle I could not find any sag at all. But, if you find sag, place your cribbing at the walls between each baggage compartment there is steel structure at each of those locations. My prevost is an 82 and should be the same as yours. Under the flooring in your bays are two 2"x3" supports that run the length of your baggae compartments front to rear. These beams are about 27 inches in from the outside of the bus on both sides. You do more measuring than work and its easy just take your time! Slidouts, I'm pretty ambitious but I couldn't bring myself to try it. I spent a lot of time finding the stuff to do it with. Unlike an MCI, Prevosts baggage compartments are not tall. HBIndustries has a complete section on doing a slideout. He also has the mechanical parts you would require. I believe he is on the west coast. Good luck Malcolm if you have any more questions just send me a email. Good luck! Pat http://prevostlemirage.blogspot.com/ | ||
| Rob King
Rating: N/A |
Hi Malcolm I bought the 5' X 10' aluminum as the length that you really work with to cover two windows at a time is 84" and you need 51" including the 1" top "lip" for the width so the 4' won't be wide enough. I had to special order the 5x10 but in the long run it saved wasting the aluminum. I paid $137 dollars per sheet for the material and then the metal worker charged me $100 per 84" panel to form it. I know that Prevost is much higher. I have a 25' x 55' garage to work inside on my coach so consider myself very priviledged. I live just outside Springfield MO so if that helps and you need the names of people here, just ask. I previously wrote about how I raised the roof which is a slight variation from Bryce. It is in the archives but if you need the detailed explanation, email me and I can provide. As Pat says, "more measuring than work" and it really was easy but it was a ton of mental work trying to think through all the "what ifs". From cutting first support to last weld of the lift pieces was a 2 month project working evenings and weekends. We (wife and I) thought long and hard about a slide-out. Finally came to the personal decision that we didn't "need" the extra room. Would be "nice" but not needed and we plan to full-time in about 10 years. I would suggest that you take sometime to think this through unemotionally because it finally boils down to a personal decision. Consider as food for thought about the slide-out, going to a rv salvage yard and getting a slide-out from a high end coach that is wrecked or burned. I have a yard about 60 miles from me and he had a 20' slide out with the mechanism, wires, mechanics for $2K. Obviously, it would have had to be modified but that is a far cry from the $25K that others want for their units. Hope this helps Rob 91 LeMirage XL Missouri | ||
| motorcoach1 Rating: N/A |
Pat that sideing do look nice  | ||
| Malcolm
Rating: N/A |
Thanks you for all your input, Rob if you can give me a telephone number, I could have your guy quote me and at that point i would have four quotes to chouse from, I need to make a decission and get the siding within the next two weeks. i just wish we were lucky enoth to find some one in California to do this for us. But i guess thats why we are trying to get this bus built and get out of this state. Again thank you all. |