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Nick Morris (Nick3751)

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Posted on Thursday, March 02, 2006 - 10:39 am:   

I'm about to get my plumbing on the road I need a little more info on the venting thing. I think I need to vent each drain correct? Where does this vent need to be (i.e. where in the pipe). Also what are the pros and cons of the under cabinet vents. I would assume that those type vents would have to be on the opposite side of the trap from the tank.
H3-40

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Posted on Thursday, March 02, 2006 - 10:46 am:   

Nick I had help from a friend to do my plumbing and I have 1 vent total for all drains that comes out of the top of the waste tank and then down towards the road thru the bay floor and then a 90 degree angle rearward with a baloney cut on the pipe. I have never had any odors while sitting still or moving. I feel the baloney cut helps to draw any odors out while moving. My vent pipe is 2 inch od.

Ace
Ron Walker (Prevost82)

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Posted on Thursday, March 02, 2006 - 11:07 am:   

Nick ...you can get what plumbers call "cheater vents" and put them at each sink. They're a one way vent, allows air to be sucked into the drain pipe.

Ron
Jim Stewart (H3jim)

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Posted on Thursday, March 02, 2006 - 11:17 am:   

I have one 2" vent from the tanks up through the roof. Once I installed it, I have never had any odor issues either parked or moving
Marc Bourget

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Posted on Thursday, March 02, 2006 - 11:45 am:   

2" is a good suggestion for final size. and a unified vent is also a good idea as it reduces the number of roof penetrations.

However, keep in mind the advantage of locating your various fixtures close to eachother, Vents, for good reason, should be dry and within 36" of the vertical thru the roof.
David Dulmage (Daved)

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Posted on Thursday, March 02, 2006 - 12:11 pm:   

I have a so-called "cheater vent" under the kitchen counter due to the long run from there to the holding tank. It's never been a problem. I do have a separate vent for the black and grey water tanks, probably could have connected these together into one pipe, rather than running two through the roof.

FWIW

DaveD
Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat)

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Posted on Thursday, March 02, 2006 - 1:23 pm:   

Most folks seem to agree that one vent for the whole bus is sufficient and I add my vote to that!

I have a single 1-1/2 vent that does the black and grey tanks, entire bathroom too. Since my kitchen sink is on the opposite side of the bus the vent would have been hasslesome to pipe there so I used one of the spring loaded cheater vents there,
and like everyone else, no problems whatsoever.
Nick Morris (Nick3751)

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Posted on Thursday, March 02, 2006 - 3:22 pm:   

Ya'll have made life a lot easier on this end. Thanks a bunch.

Ace do you have any pics I can look at to see how yours is run?
H3-40

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Posted on Thursday, March 02, 2006 - 3:51 pm:   

Nick you can go to the lost links button on the left of this page and look under personal web pages. When you find mine, click on it and it will show everything I have done from beginning minus the latest which should be updated shortly!

Ace
JR

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Posted on Thursday, March 02, 2006 - 8:25 pm:   

Those "cheater vents" are called "vacuum" or "suction" breaks. They are just rubber flap check valves that screw onto where the vent stack would have been. I also used one in the kitchen due to the long run.
One vent "T'eed" from the black and grey tanks is the norm. I used an RV cap on my roof vent. Looks nice...no bird or rain get in. If possible plan to run it up through a closet or cab of some sort. Properly treat your grey and black water tanks and offensive odors will be minimized. JR
DMDave

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Posted on Thursday, March 02, 2006 - 8:56 pm:   

we call them by a trade name Pro vents. Nick usually the vent is above the drain line tied in with a T . The trap line from the sink comes into the middle, the drain down and the vent up. the T is actualy on its side.

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