| Author |
Message |
Bob Wood (206.141.212.226)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, November 19, 2001 - 11:35 am: | |
I have my roof raised on the Eagle 20 and have chosen to reskin with aluminum. What type aluminum should I purchase? I want something hard, that is least effected by temperature change. Thank you. |
Jim (198.81.16.58)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 23, 2001 - 11:33 am: | |
Use .090 or thicker, install in as much heat as possable, get it up on the bus, fasten tne rear down, then start streching at front edge, might have to manually heat alum. to get enough strech, about 3/8" sometimes more.Then continue fastening down. |
Oaepalmer (Oaepalmer) (208.164.96.29)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 29, 2001 - 2:59 am: | |
What size are your main fill pieces going to be and what type of finish do you want baked paint, buffed shiney or dull mill finish...or do you want to paint it, thereby necessitating a paint-loc textured surface on one side.
You have plenty of choices including using the OEM sheet metal in a custom length.
The advice to "use .100 material" is great but matbe way overboard depending on the alloy of the material you have available.
Here is my FWIW.
When I pull the windows on my 4106, I'll be adding the new support "spacers" in a length that will allow me to use ALL of a standard 48 x 120 sheet of prefinished aluminum manufactured for UV protection and stiffness. I can order it in ANY color or shiney/clear and it will cover the area from the drip edge down to where the lowest part of the "window panel" used to end. This will give me about 15 additional inches of roof height, cure plenty of potential air&water leakage points and overall stiffen the entire structure...and the material is .062 thick...a 40% weight saving over .100...BTW .062 is already thicker than the OEM material!!
Don't be afraid to snoop around some aircraft A & P facilities....I know in MPLS. there are several scrap yards that have such complete inventories that they can supply you with ANY thing you can ask for, and I hear that the Boeing surplus shop in Seattle makes the MPLS biz look pale in comparison.
BTW...I don't know what your plans for fasteners is ....but you would be well advised to used 1/4inch BLIND/cast alumin. rivets and an air powered gun.
My budget for rivets alone is over $250....& I will back each rivet with a convex washer that will spread the grip and lock it in place against road vibrations.
USE YOUR OLD RIVET HOLES WHEN EVER POSSIBLE AND DO NOT JUST DRILL NEW ONES!! and take care NOT to stretch the holes as you remove the deadheaded rivet tails after you've drilled the old heads off. a 3/8ths or 5/32nds bit will work perfectly for this...in conjunction with a needlenosed punch and a 2lb maul.....( I have a device called a Ram-Set that was originaly designed for setting hardened nails in concrete...it is accurate surefire and saves the knuckles for much better abuse...!)
....and as you can see there are plenty of us here to give you plenty of perspective and experience....although I wish someone WITH RECENT roof experience would step up to the soap box and clear up a few misconceptions on ALL or parts...;) |
RJ Long (24.127.8.58)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 29, 2001 - 2:11 pm: | |
Oaepalmer -
Are you actually raising the roof on a 4106?
Not quite clear from your post. . .
RJ
PD4106-2784
Fresno CA |
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