| Author | Message | ||
| Kevin Hatch
Rating: |
I'd really like to get rid of the origional entry door closer on my 4905. I would imagine that an RV type latch/lock is the way to go? I've looked around a little online, and I like the Bargman L-300. The only snag I might see is that it requires no more than 2" thick door. I haven't measured yet, but I think it'll be close. http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-locks/rv-door-lock.htm What type of latch have some of you used? I also wondered if I should stay with the origional hinges or change to a different type, maybe a piano hinge or something. Any advice would be great! | ||
| Dale Fleener (Dale_mc8)
Rating: N/A |
From the Archives: '79 MC9 door opener modification needed -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- By John that newguy (199.232.240.70) on Monday, July 05, 2004 - 4:54 pm: Edit Post Ok. I checked the archives, didn't locate anything, and now feel safe asking: On a 1979 MC9, is there a way to fix the door to make it easy to open without the use of that inside handle or outside button? For a seasoned bus driver it's a nuisance, but to a wife with arthritis, it could be a living hell. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- By Jack Conrad (Jackconrad) (207.30.189.60) on Monday, July 05, 2004 - 6:16 pm: Edit Post Yes, Remove the dash handle assembly and install a truck type handle assembly in the door with the "nader" pin in the jamb. I wrote an article about doing this project that was published in the March, 2004 issue of bus Conversions Magazine. Hope this helps, Jack -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- By John the newguy (199.232.244.54) on Monday, July 05, 2004 - 10:32 pm: Edit Post I wish I had a copy of the mag, Jack. (Now, all I have to do, is find out what a "nader pin" is). -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- By Airless in Mississippi (69.92.6.103) on Tuesday, July 06, 2004 - 12:16 am: Edit Post Nader pin= SOMEONE VOTING FOR RALPH NADER? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- By FAST FRED (4.245.149.71) on Tuesday, July 06, 2004 - 5:33 am: Edit Post http://users.cwnet.com/~thall/FAST%20FRED.htm Is a link from years ago , that explains how to do it. Only caviat , DONT try it with a SOLID PLASTIC DOOR, only works in a real coach. FAST FRED HTH Dale MC8 | ||
| Jay Gerlick
Rating: N/A |
I went to a truck junkyard and took out the whole assembly and latch out of a 91 Mack "C" class,passenger side. I have had to order parts too with no problem, becuase I knew the application. | ||
| Kevin Hatch
Rating: N/A |
So the RV latch isn't really stout enough? | ||
| R.C. Bishop
Rating: N/A |
Not sure what one might mean by "stout enough"....all depends on whether one would want to save the expense (perhaps) of a new door or rebuild....or a lock mechanism...KISS. He who wants to get in, will get in. Works for me  RCB 64 Crown Supercoach (HWC) | ||
| David Hartley (Drdave)
Rating: N/A |
Kevin, Where are you? In Florida by any chance? If not, never mind... | ||
| Chuck Lott (Chuckmc8)
Rating: N/A |
So the RV latch isn't really stout enough? I used a RV lock and it works great. I added a deadbolt to lock the door at night. It works like it came from the factory. Anybody wants in will have to break the window and unlock the door. heres an outside view- http://groups.msn.com/July2004Busphotos/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=149 and a look at the inside- http://groups.msn.com/July2004Busphotos/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=67 | ||
| FAST FRED Rating: N/A |
"So the RV latch isn't really stout enough?" Stout has many versions , the truck door locks grab a post with a head on it that is very very secure. The RV stuff is only a sliding bolt that can shake open depending on the fit of the front door. If you keep the inside bus door closing mechanism the RV will work just fine. WE use the truck setup AND have kept the bus closing goodies. The truck door lock works great when exiting frequently , the bus goodies help really compress the new door gaskets for a quieter ride. FAST FRED | ||
| Kevin Hatch
Rating: N/A |
Fred, You hit the nail on the head. My meaning of "stout enough" is holding the door closed tightly. The OE closer will only close it tight enough to suit me when it is adjusted up tight enough that the handle will not break over center when closed from the outside. The door really has to be slammed reguardless. I'm in a band and this is our tour bus, so there is a lot of frequent ins and outs. The door slamming while trying to rest is annoying. | ||
| JW Smythe (Jwsmythe)
Rating: N/A |
I was thinking of putting some electric door lock solenoids in to deadbolt my doors. Of course, if the battery dies, I'm locked out too. If you did them safe style (all four sides), the door would be secure and safe from intruders. But, as my dad always said, locks are for honest people. There are a lot of windows on a bus. Sliding window latches aren't always the best technology in the world. If someone wants in, and they don't care about breaking something, they'll get in fast. We had someone break into a van we used to own. They didn't bother to break the windows, they took a tire iron and tore a hole in the metal surrounding one of the door lock. It would have been so much easier to just bust a window, and hit the electric lock switch. Reskinning a sliding van door turned out to be fairly expensive. The insurance company wasn't very happy about that. To secure a bus door from flopping open, I like Fast Fred's picture. I know the standard RV door latch/lock isn't all that great. I know our old (late 70's, early 80's) Class C RV's, all you had to do was lean on the door to open it, you didn't even have to touch the latch. | ||
| Kevin Hatch
Rating: N/A |
"---all you had to do was lean on the door to open it, you didn't even have to touch the latch." That's the kind of thing I need to hear. I don't want some jicky door latch. I think I might look into the truck door latch assy a little closer. Besides, the RV latch specs say up to 2" thick door, and I measured, mines about 2 5/8". | ||
| coolbus Rating: N/A |
Chuck Did you have to modify the door lock to accomodate a door that is thicker than a typicaal RV style door? Seems the locks I've seen are only useful up to 2" thhick or so, Mines a little thicker than that. I was thinking of a way to extend the bolts, etc Thanks Mark | ||
| Kevin Hatch
Rating: N/A |
I have a guy checking on a truck door latch assy. for me at a wrecking yard. If he dosen't find one, is there a certian make/model that is better than another for this application? | ||
| JW Smythe (Jwsmythe)
Rating: N/A |
Kevin, Have a look at how passenger car doors latch. That's a pretty good method, and you may be able to convert something over, if you can't find something in an RV latch. It may take a few hours of wandering around in a U-Pull-It lot, but you're bound to find something. Fast Fred's description was perfect. A car door latch wraps itself around basically a bolt with a head. It can't pull over the head, and since it's wrapped around when latched, it can't just pull open. Looking at car and light truck doors, you open yourself up to a whole varity of handle designs, and if you go with something relatively recent, if the one you get at a junk yard is worn or breaks, you can just go to an automobile dealership to get a new replacement. For hinges, you may want to look at 2nd generation Firebird/Camaro (1970 to 1981) hinges. They weren't the best, but the doors are heavy, and the hinges bolt on. In the late 80's or early 90's, I had to change the hinges on my '79 Firebird. You don't realize how heavy the door is til you have to pick it up or balance it. I can't think of any cars off hand that had such long doors. Maybe the early 70's Cadillac Coupe Deville's, but they'll be harder to get new. I believe all the Firebird/Camaro models after that, the hinges were welded on the door side, so those won't do you much good. | ||
| Chuck Lott (Chuckmc8)
Rating: N/A |
I didn't have to modify the lock assembly, only to buy a couple longer screws when I added the door panel. This door locks as securely as any of the truck door latches. The latch mechanisim is 5/8" thick stainless steel that solidly secured the door. If the bus door is so raggedy or the wheels so out of balance that it may vibrate the door open, heres a clue, fix the bus before you mess with the door. And if you do a half assed job with the instalation, I'd guess that any lock may "pop open" Do it any way you want, I did, and I'd damn sure bet my door is at least as secure as any other lock used....The slide doesn't wrap around anything-its stainless steel slid 1" into the door frame...Bouncing open...that's a joke! | ||
| Jim-Bob Rating: N/A |
We have an RV door latch AND the original driver closer mechanism. One BIG difference between the big truck latch mechanism and the RV is that the T bolt has a plastic or nylon tube around the shank. The RV latch is steel on steel. For 7 years I have been annoyed by the RV latch squeeking as we go down the road at any speed. My wheels are balanced, My DRUMS are balanced but there is still a little bit of bounce that makes it squeek squeek squeek! I have greased it, only to have the grease get on everyone's clothes. I am using dry spray lube now. No matter what you use, you get only about 5 hours of quiet. I did not originally install this latch but since I am stuck with it, I have had to modify the square operating shaft to be long enough to go all the way through the door. The first guy had just sunk the inner plate into the door far enough to engage the shaft. It requires periodic tuning up to stay working properly. Go with the truck latch mechanism. "The Real Thing!" | ||
| Kevin Hatch
Rating: N/A |
I found a truck bone yard here in Amarillo a couple of days ago. I went out there and wandered around for about a half hour. I finally found an old Peterbuilt and I robbed the latch, striker pin, inside and outside latch handles, and the actuator rods all for $35. I already had a good stainless dead bolt. So I got it all rigged up. I'll post some pics tomorrow. |
