| Author | Message | ||
| Bill Gerrie (Bill_gerrie)
Rating: N/A |
Does anyone know how much turbo boost I can expect from a 6V92TA? I want to get a gauge and I find they are available in either 30 or 60 lbs of boost and I don't want to spend $200 on an electrical one and get the wrong one. Thanks. Bill | ||
| JW Smythe (Jwsmythe)
Rating: N/A |
I did a little searching, and people were reporting anywhere between 5psi and 30psi. Check http://summitracing.com . They're still pricy on the electric gauges, but mechanical boost gauges are reasonable. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ATM%2D2616&N=4294822101+429 4905487+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ATM%2D4403&N=4294822101+429 4908419+115&autoview=sku Is electric required? I would think you'd be fine with a mechanical gauge. In my car, I only have about 10' of hose leading up to mine, so I don't know if it'll make a difference being over 40' long, but I wouldn't think it should. I know mechanical gauges are generally more accurate than electronic. Of course, with 30psi, make sure you secure your lines.  I *BELIEVE* you should be looking for a vac/boost gauge, so if the turbo goes out, the negative pressure will be obvious. I *BELIEVE* the blower doesn't provide positive pressure, just air flow. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong. If there's a problem with doing a mechanical gauge, I'd like to know, because I had planned on putting one in my bus. | ||
| Marc Bourget Rating: N/A |
The only problem with a mechanical guage is distance as it increases the drag of the tube, which can be overcome by using a larger diameter tube than normal. | ||
| Steve (Steve)
Rating: N/A |
The blower does add air box pressure.Some old detroit engines only used a blower without a turbo. Add a turbo ontop of a blower and the right injectors and timing and compression and boom,400 hp from a small V6. A blower like the one on your engine is used to move gas in oil production plants and also to compress gas into a liquid. The speed of light is 186,000 miles per second. 640 acres = 1 sq. mile 231 cubic inches = 1 U.S.gallon L"X H"X W"-:- 231 cu. in. = U.S. gallons 1 horsepower = 550 ft. lb. per second 1 kilowatt = 1.34 horsepower 1 cubic foot of water = 62.4 pounds absolute zero is -460 degrees F. -273 degrees C 1 liter of air = 1.29 grams | ||
| Bill Gerrie (Bill_gerrie)
Rating: N/A |
Thanks guys. JW. I like the idea of a vac/boost gauge. Makes sense. Marc. I checked and the local racing store suggested not to use a mechanical because of the length of the tube. I guess I am going to have to pay big bucks but I wanted to know the range. I will have to do more checking and see what is available. Bill | ||
| Pete/RTS Daytona (Pete_rtsdaytona)
Rating: N/A |
here's a post rom the "old Mak Board" Posted by David Anderson (66.90.192.90) on March 21, 2006 at 19:57:55: In Reply to: what is typical two stroke turbo boost pressure? posted by Greg Peterson on March 20, 2006 at 21:27:29: I get 18psi @2100rpm @80mph on my 6v92. The gauge sending tube is attached on top of the blower at a 1/4" npt pipe port. I've been told this is a good reading at that road speed. If the pressure declines at that speed, it is time to change the fuel filter. David Anderson | ||
| truthhunter@shaw.ca Rating: N/A |
additional- I understand "different piston must be added along with a different ratio in the blower drive when putting the T into say 8V71 along with all the plumbing and extra cooling" of course . (but the "just four bolts" approach is a good way to get hooked, as long as one knows the full extent before they actually start spending the cash. If we ever new the full story me might never actually begin considering a project) | ||
| Marc Bourget Rating: N/A |
I'll take the advice of a legendary Aeronautical Engineer, who was a featured speaker at the ASME annual convention for 20+ years, over a typical speed shop counter-person. Guys would call John Thorp and the Lycoming factory about a problem and get different opinions, they went with John, and, later, so did the factory. From the figures you mentioned above, you could experiment with my suggestion with little pain (except for installation effort) compared to the price of an electronic. | ||
| Marc Bourget Rating: N/A |
A filter minder is cheaper than a boost guage, in that regard. I got three for the plucking at a local pick-n-pull part wrecking yard. They're a frequent accessory on later model cars | ||
| Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat)
Rating: N/A |
Length of the tube won't make any difference when using a gauge. The reason a long tube is not a good idea with things that *flow* is obviously long tubes restrict flow more than short tubes. But when there is basically no flow, just static pressure, even a tiny tube is fine. That's why you see these teensey 1/8" ID tubes taking oil ports to gauges. Oil is thick as can be but when you're measuring what is basically static pressure, even a capillary tube will work fine. So don't worry about using a mechanical gauge over the length of your bus... it'll work fine. An interesting comment about filter minders- my engine sucks a filter minder red even with a new filter installed, and that's with the factory air cleaner. It doesn't affect my turbo's boost, mileage (10-11) or performance at all. Filter minders usually measure in terms of inches of water, not PSI so I can't see where one would really be of much use in a turbo situation... mine surely isn't... And FWIW, there's a bizillion boost/vacuum gauges on ebay all the time for under fifty bucks new... I got my very nice S-W gauge for ten bucks | ||
| JW Smythe (Jwsmythe)
Rating: N/A |
a $10 gauge sounds nice. You know, some of the nicest tools and parts that I have were sold for cheap, in crappy stores. For some reason, a lot of those will work longer than the expensive ones. I have autometer gauges in my car right now. There's a NOS pressure, the vac/boost, and an air/fuel mixture indicator. I haven't even hooked up the NOS since I put the gauges in, and the gauge already broke. The needle is sitting crooked, and just bounces around as it pleases. The vac/boost gauge works like a champ though. For my bus, I plan on running extra wires to the rear, just in case. If you put a mechanical gauge in, and decide that for whatever reason you really wanted an electric, you could then just buy the electric, and use an unused pair of wires to make it work. You'll be working with standard gauge sizes, so it won't be too painful if you switch them. BTW, racing people are both a great resource for information and disinformation. There are a lot of things between racers that have been handed down by word of mouth, that are not necessarly accurate. In stores, I usually talk to them about the car *THEY* drive. If they can talk to me coherently and not just rattling off brand names, then I feel better about what they're saying. | ||
| Henry Bergman
Rating: N/A |
Bill, a 30 psi boost gage out of a wrecked big truck will work for you for just a few $bucks$ if you pull it yourself at your local friendly big truck wrecking yard. Expect a slight delay in accurate readings thru the small diameter hose or line from the back of the bus where the mill is all the way to the front where you are. And Steve..let us not forget forever that Warp Factor Five (5) is equal to one (1) parsec every 8.802 hours which opens up hundred of alien planets for mankind. | ||
| Bill Gerrie (Bill_gerrie)
Rating: N/A |
Thanks for all the advice guys. Where else but on the BNO board could you get all this info and so fast. Bill |