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Rob King

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Posted on Wednesday, April 26, 2006 - 12:28 pm:   

Hi All
I am at the point of placing the a/c ductwork. I have a basement a/c and already have galvanized round ductwork running up to the ceiling. I am trying to decide on ceiling ductwork. Because of ceiling constraints, I will have to run rectangular duct in the ceiling. I know there are galvanized metal and ductboard commerically available. The cost for my system would be about $500. So when I was at Lowes/HD, I got to thinking, why couldn't I buy polyisocyonate wall insulation, cut it to the right size, tape it up and have my rectangular duct. It would be very lightweight, already insulated and inexpensive, about $70 total. Lets hear from the a/c guys especially plus anyone else who may have done this and those who may have thought of it but didn't do it. Thanks

Rob
91 LeMirageXL
Missouri
Cliff (Floridacracker)

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Posted on Wednesday, April 26, 2006 - 2:50 pm:   

Rob,

Thats exactly what I did!

I did use the brush on duct seal over the tape on the outside.

I was a little worried that maybe it would be noiser than regular duct(adaptors have to take some risks), But when I fired it up it was quiet.

Cliff
Eric Lake (Dc_bus_nut)

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Posted on Wednesday, April 26, 2006 - 8:10 pm:   

Why not use PVC pipe as the Ductwork??

Eric
Greg Roberts (Gregeagle20)

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Posted on Wednesday, April 26, 2006 - 8:23 pm:   

Check out the Ultra Duct at this web site: http://www.insul.net/prod_ultraduct.html

I used this in my eagle for ducted roof air systems and I spent around $300 plus shipping. The beauty of this stuff is that it installs compactly, makes nice low resistance turns and allows much less resistance for the area that occupies. I am sure that the bigger stuff will work but, at least for me, the price is a good trade off for the amount of time it would have taken me to assembly the duct. I simply used a cad program and made demensional drawings of each piece that I wanted made and emailed it to these guys and then the stuff came in the UPS a week later.
motorcoach1

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Posted on Wednesday, April 26, 2006 - 8:25 pm:   

PVC and air running through it can cause nasty static electricity and worse in dry weather go with the lowes foam board it does work well and is light weight. -PS- electronics real doesn't get along with static electricity and you'll never see it coming. even worse is people that use PVC in home shops for vacuum air pipes to remove sawdust. just bad news.I've seen some real nasty static that blew up a paint room using it
truthhunter@shaw.ca

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Posted on Wednesday, April 26, 2006 - 9:29 pm:   

low teck EMP generator anyone. Nylon works even better
Pete/RTS Daytona (Pete_rtsdaytona)

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Posted on Wednesday, April 26, 2006 - 10:39 pm:   

Rob

In Sanford Florida there are 2 high end Prevost converters - Vantare Coach and Millenium Coach - I've tour the opereations at both sites - they both use ULTRA DUCT for all thier A/C ducts

I was able to purchase enough 4x8 sheets of ULTRA DUCT from them to complete my Ducted A/C in my RTS conversion bus.

I used the following data from Dometic to design my ductwork layout - their data sheets provided (minimum-maximum duct sizes / suggested duct pattern / venting size info / min-max duct runs / etc see--->
http://www.dometicusa.com/pdf/3309083.016.pdf

I just used a razor to cut the ULTRADUCT and scored the bend lines with a dull pencil - then used Lowes vinyl A/C tape to seal the seams

If you have a big converter near you try them first - if not
http://www.insul.net/prod_ultraduct.html
will cut the boards down to shipable sizes and send them to you

Pete RTS/Daytona
Donn

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Posted on Thursday, April 27, 2006 - 7:35 am:   

I used the double foil sided foam as you sugjest.It works out great.You can make sweeping transitions,and long straight runs.I used the foil tape.the ducts are 2-1/2"x 7" inside as per Carrier instuctions.I put a flapper valve in the center of the bus to isolate front and rear.With the valve open ,the bed room can be cooled with the front ac.

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