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Jeffery L. Barbour (Jeff) (24.14.7.10)
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Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 02, 2001 - 3:40 pm: | |
I've posted this to other boards too so I could get a lot of input. Below is from Fred Hobe’s website. Thank you Fred!
Tip on building an air leveling system.
Material that you need - four 3/8 ball valves two 3/8 Ts four 3/8 90% street Ls, four 3/8 short connectors, two small air regulators and 25 feet of 1/4 inch o.d. tubing.
There are several combinations to put your system together, depending on were you are going to put them. One place is in the right side engine compartment and the front one in the front bin. There are other places like in a compartment on the inside of the coach. Some use plastic tubing to hook up, but I don't trust it. Some use small gages and four shut off valves. But the constant changing of pressure will break the diaphragm on the gages.
On most coaches that are air ride, the air will go down in a few hours with the original system. It is the leveling valves that are the big cause of leaks. When installing this system you take them off. The air bags seldom leak, they are like your tires. If your air frames are good, a leveling system on your coach will not leak. Your coach can be easily adjusted from side to side by letting air out of the high side and adding a little on the low side. With this system your coach will stay the same all the time and only go down when you have a problem. I adjust mine with my small compressor that I carry. Because you don't have to raise the coach every time you start, it only takes a few minutes to get the air up to 120 L.P.S. This is a system that everyone can make at a very modest cost.
After reading this, how did you do your air leveling system? Did you follow Fred’s suggestions or a modification there of? Have you revamped the original air leveling system. Kept the system “stock”? Just what about the stock air leveling valves, do they really leak? Did you remove yours? Please send me E Mail on what you did..... Thanks
Jeff
BubbaJePH@aol.com |
Andrew McBride (209.77.208.189)
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Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 29, 2001 - 2:07 pm: | |
For leveling we used three-way electric pneumatic valves on all three axles actuated by double through switches in the cockpit. Also, we used 3/8" Synflex lines to front axle and 5/8" to the rear. The front can be made to kneel very quickly with the 3/8" lines. The rear is slower probably because of the larger air bags, but it is okay. The tag axle needs to have a the warning light functioning so that one does not forget to air it up before moving. We had a tire on the tag axle wear through because for some reason the wheel locked with almost no weight on it. The automatic leveling valves are removed since the load does not change that much when used as a motor home. Probably the most important thing is to determine what pressure to set the drive axle to keep the drive shaft straight. |
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