| Author |
Message |
Camill Paul Elbisser (Paul)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 03, 2006 - 11:12 am: | |
I am removing the plywood floor and chair rail on our bus.
Cannot find 5 ply 1/2" plywood in 4ft. X 10ft. And the 4ft. X 8ft are costly.
Plan on a layer of 1/2" plywood, layer of 1 1/2" insulation and second layer of 3/4" plywood on the top.
How have other people done this and what have they used.
Thanks for any help in advance.
Paul
PS We were told that the bathroom, seats, Luggage racks were hard to remove but, the chair rail beats all. |
Ed (Ednj)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 03, 2006 - 11:16 am: | |
Why not reuse what was there? |
Ron Walker (Prevost82)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 03, 2006 - 11:50 am: | |
I used 3/4" 4x8 sheets over the bays and 3/4" Pressure treated over the drivers and engine compartment. I also put a 3/8" subfloor over the 3/4" in the bathroom area for ceramic tile. You just have to bite the bullet on the cost if you want to do it right...pay now or pay twice as much later.
Ron |
Rob King
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 03, 2006 - 9:13 pm: | |
Hi Paul
This is a general answer to your question. 5 ply 1/2" or 7 ply 3/4" plywood is cabinet grade plywood. To find a source for it, you will need to locate a cabinet shop near you and buy from them. Some old fashion true lumber yards will order for you and as one last resort, if you have a junior high school/high school that has "shop classes", they maybe able to order for you. But be prepared, it is nearly twice the price of plywood from the big box stores of HD or Lowes. However, it is much better quality also so, as Ron says, you just have to bite the bullet sometimes in these conversions.
That doesn't mean using plywood from the big boxes is bad or shouldn't be done, just need to choose carefully if you buy from them.
Rob
91 LeMirage XL
Missouri |
Earl-8-Ky
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 03, 2006 - 9:59 pm: | |
I put 3/4 sturdy floor in my bus and insulated fron the bottom in the bays. You will not loose any head room that way. We did use carpet which helps to insulate too. |
FAST FRED
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 04, 2006 - 5:18 am: | |
IF you dont worry about cost , the stiffest ply has the most layers , and feels least springy underfoot.
Brunzeel or any other good grade of marine ply is avilable in 4 X 10 and sometimes 5X10 depending on your local source.
This is GREAT stuff , no voids to rot internaly and really good glue.
It is not bargan basement priced tho,
as usual "you get what you pay for".
FAST FRED |
Geoff (Geoff)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 04, 2006 - 8:47 am: | |
We have the same problem with wood for our RTS conversions-- the bus is designed in 5' segments. You have to special order 4x10' plywood sheets, it is very expensive but commonly used to build pool tables. What most of use end up doing is adding braces to the floor so we can just use 4x8 sheets of wood.
1.5" of insulation for the floor sounds like overkill. I found some 'sound deading' material at the local Home Depot that is only 1/2" thick and designed for floors. I repaired my original 3/4" floor, put the 1/2" sound deading material over that, and the put 3/4" tongue and grove, with laminate flooring over that. I have a very solid and quiet floor.
--Geoff
82 RTS AZ |
Mark Scott
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 04, 2006 - 10:48 am: | |
I re-did my floor on my 102A3, I left the seat rail in place, cut plywood to fit. I used 3/4"
High Density Overlay Plywood. It is 5-ply douglas fir, resin coating on both sides, very smooth finish. It is used in the concrete forming business. A local plywood wholesaler will be your source. Its also available in 1/2" or 5/8". Its expensive, but in my opinion, the strongest, sturdiest, moisture resistant product to use. Good luck. Mark Scott |
JR
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 05, 2006 - 9:58 pm: | |
Seems as though "sandwiching" insulation between the plywood layers may make fastening cabinets, furniture, fridge cabs, potty, etc a bit more complicated. Notwithstanding the loss of headroom with the 2 1/4" of additional floor height. All of the interior components will have to be securely anchored to the floor. I don't see how you'd anchor the top flooring to the lower floor? Spacers thru the insulation? If the upper layer of plywood isn't anchored well, it is probably going to feel soft. Like a mega floating floor.
Is the original floor damaged? My 87 MC9 floor is in excellent condition.
If you plan to live in the bus in bitter cold weather, your plan would serve a purpose...but if you use the bus part-time as an RV, in above freezing weather..all the floor insulation is overkill. I've spent nights in the 30s and the bus is easy to heat and keep heated. The windshields are the biggest problem. Drapes help that.
The ceiling and walls are what needs maximum insulation.
Full-timing at the ski lodge would require insulation below the storage areas, so that tanks and storage don't freeze.
Best, JR |
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