| Author |
Message |
Casper4104
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 08, 2006 - 12:45 am: | |
How strong should a GM reversing solenoid be?
I had the Horizon Coach guys fix some problems on my 4104 before I picked it up in March. One of the things they did was install a shiny new reversing solenoid.
I brought the bus home and have run it very little since. The reversing solenoid has been used maybe 20 times. Now it won't work.
The solenoid actuates, but doesn't pull hard enough to engage the gear. With the switch thrown, I can easily overpower the solenoid and pull it back out with 2 fingers.
I had my partner hold the switch for a second and checked for 12 volts to the solenoid, and that seems Ok (12.7VDC at the solenoid lead). So then I thought that maybe I wasn't getting the amperage that I need, so I straightlined the solenoid to the starter lug for a second and got the same result.
I called the bus dealer and talked with the wrench there (he and I really hit it off), and he told me to do the 2 little tests I just described. I'll call him tomorrow and tell him I think it failed the tests. He's in contact with his parts vendor about a replacement, so maybe I'll get good news tomorrow.
How strong should that rascal be? I can pull harder with my, ummmm, nose. That thing's the size of a soup can - it sure seems like it should be stronger than that.
Any input? Tips? Tricks?
Thanks in advance,
Casper4104 |
Brian Brown (Blue_velvet)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 08, 2006 - 3:16 am: | |
Casper,
When it started acting up, I took apart my '06 solenoid and shined up the plunger and races with sandpaper. This fixed the issues with going into reverse. Having a new unit should preclude you having to do that.
BUT, I would think you should have closer to 14v at the solenoid... if the bus is running and alt. is charging. A good test would be to go ahead and apply + voltage straight from the batts (via a looong 10GA lead) to the solenoid and see if it really pulls then. If so, I would take a hard look at your solenoid wiring.
HTH,
Brian Brown
Longmont, CO
PD4106-1175
P8M-4108A-216 |
Casper4104
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 08, 2006 - 7:26 am: | |
Thanks for the reply Brian,
Voltage straight from the batts is pretty much what I did. I connected the big lug on the starter (which is hooked directly to the batts with a cable as thick as my thumb) to the solenoid with a set of jumper cables. The bus was not running at the time, because I was just testing solenoid function - not trying to back up. It did not "Really pull",,, so I think it's the solenoid.
Note: I know enough about solenoids to not sit there holding the reverse button down and burn the thing up. The 20 times or so that I successfully used the unit, I selected 1st - hit the button - pulled back into 2nd/reverse - released the button. Probably less than 5 seconds on the button each time. There is no sign of heat/burning on the solenoid. It looks brand new (which it is).
Calling the shop this morning,
Casper4104 |
Stan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 08, 2006 - 7:55 am: | |
Repeating all the usual warnings about grounding. When you measure the voltage, make sure that you are checking the actual solenoid winding. Do not use the transmission for a ground connection, but connect the meter between the wire lead and the solenoid case. You may have a poor electrical connection between the solenoid frame and the transmission or even a poor connection between battery ground and the transmission case. |
Casper4104
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 08, 2006 - 8:07 am: | |
Good point Stan - hadn't thought of that. When I call the shop later this morning I'll check with the mech that he had a good clean surface when he bolted the new solenoid down. I'll also do some of the checks you mention when I get back to the bus.
Thanks,
Casper |
mel 4104
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 08, 2006 - 10:10 am: | |
Stan just gave you a good idea that you need to check the grounding . you can find out by taking a jumper cable of your car or truck battery and with a set of jumper cables and hook up to the battery them place the + lead to the wire connection going into the sel. and the apply the - side to the outer case of the sel. and see what you get, it should pull up the sel real quick and hard so wear your gloves when doing this test. mel 4104 |
Casper4104
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 08, 2006 - 4:40 pm: | |
Good news. I talked with the mech and described my symptoms and test results, and he agrees that my brand new solenoid is probably fried. He’s getting in contact with his parts vendor about a replacement.
We’ll see how it goes. Elec parts are usually warranted until you get them out of the box.
Thanks for the tips,
Casper4104 |
John Jewett (Jayjay)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 08, 2006 - 11:32 pm: | |
Casper, glad you have it under control. If you have the proper solenoid it is a continuous duty rated device, and should have a minimum of about 30 lbs. of pull. Use a good fish scale for a rough test. ...JJ |
Casper4104
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 09, 2006 - 8:02 am: | |
Thanks JJ
30 pounds? I don't know if i'm getting 30 ounces.
I hope they'll replace this loser, these things ain't cheap. Anybody ever run a cable?
Casper4104 |