| Author |
Message |
Ace Rossi (24.28.44.126)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2001 - 1:42 pm: | |
What would be considered the correct height for a bench used as a booth in a coach conversion?
Thanks
Ace |
Jim Ashworth (Jimnh) (172.142.10.219)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2001 - 2:31 pm: | |
18 inches is considered standard for dining chairs. If it is padded, this is actual butt height with the foam compressed.
Jim |
Ace Rossi (24.28.44.126)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2001 - 3:38 pm: | |
Thanks! I can't imagine all these convertors out here and your the only response I got from two boards. I guess alot of these so called conversions were factory done! LOL
Thanks again,
A&$ |
Jerry H. (Coachconversion) (65.2.65.246)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2001 - 4:48 pm: | |
Ace:
Yup -- typical is 18-in. high (chair height).
Jerry |
FAST FRED (209.26.87.42)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 06, 2001 - 5:44 am: | |
The difference between a coach and a house requires different thinking on seating hights.
As there is usually storage {hopefully} below the bench ,
a milk crate should be able to be easily slid under.
Great food stowage , easy to access , easy to inventoty ,and refill.
If the conversion style is more house like,
the seat stowage will get loaded from the top, this looks "better".
But stinks , as inventory , refill and access are more difficult.
"Get up honney , I need to find a can of tuna".
Also its more difficult to create a good sitting , springy surface , as sitting on plywood gets VERY old after the first rain day.
Another consideration is if the table will fold , drop down ,
to work with the bench , to form a bed.
If so the foam would be thicker, requiring the bench to be lower.
It isn't only the hight that matters , its the ultimate use , and how well it functions that really count.
Therefore Eye hight , to be able to see the views you came for , and personal size , {if your large or small} should also be accomidated.
FAST FRED |
Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy) (65.207.109.13)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 06, 2001 - 9:20 am: | |
One of the most important considerations should be comfort. My wife (at 5'2")has trouble with most furniture in that her feet do not touch the floor while seated. This really gets uncomfortable after a period of time. Since you are converting the bus for your own use, then make it comfortable for you and Susan. After a few rainy days cooped up in the bus, the wrong height could get really uncomfortable.
Richard |
Peter Broadribb (Madbrit) (216.67.212.183)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 06, 2001 - 11:50 am: | |
Richard,
if your beloved wife is having problems with a too high seat, then why not make a foot stool and wrap it in carpet for her to rest her feet on. Must be just as uncomfortable to be long legged and sit in a too low seat. Just an idea.
Peter. |
DrivingMissLazy (65.207.109.24)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 06, 2001 - 7:54 pm: | |
Peter, great idea, but too late. Already got everything down to her size. You are correct, it makes it sorta uncomfortable for me at 6'.
Richard |
Joe Laird (Joelaird) (198.81.16.31)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 07, 2001 - 12:21 am: | |
Richard & Peter, My wife claims to be 5'. Maybe, in spike heels. I sawed off a 6"x6" with a dull skillsaw for her a footstool. It was NOT a neat cut. She used it for 4 years until someone at one of the conversion companies saw it, shamed me, and covered it in carpet for her. Now if I would just remake that box I have used for a step for 6 years. Good Luck, Joe |
CoryDanes RTSII NE/IL (4.17.253.67)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 07, 2001 - 1:01 am: | |
Hey guys
As this string is kinda on building, I'd like to ask about a really basic phase
with the insides stripped out, all that shows is the metal walls/supports. NOW, for the back wall, the bedroom area, is it practice to just glue the wood strips on the wall or do they get screwed in place also. Kinda wondering since I Don't know whats underneath and this is where it will all start, soon. Walls along the side after that, ceiling, floors, oooow, are we on our way?
I hope so - cd |
Jerry H. (Coachconversion) (65.2.65.246)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 07, 2001 - 7:11 am: | |
Cory:
I used self-tapping wafer head screws to fasten my plywood to the steel tubing. On certain flat alumm. areas, I did used adhesive and the screws to fasten firring strips.
See my progress at http://www.i-kb.com/coaches/archive/index.html
Good luck,
Jerry |
TonyW (152.163.207.183)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 08, 2001 - 12:06 am: | |
Hi CD,
I used various sized self-drilling hexheads(not same as self-tapping)to fasten 1x2 furring in our RTS. I drilled the furring slightly larger than the screws so the threads have clearance and sank the heads into the furring. That SS is tough going. Avoid double and triple layers where ya can. A # 12 will drill 3 layers but a #8 will dull half way through. They're is a bit of a learning curve. Use a variable speed drill to drive 'em slowly or the little "bits" on the screws will burn up and dull. We got ours from Allied Nut&Bolt but HD has 'em too.
There is an RTS e-group at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RTS-bus-nuts/
About 70 members now. Lots of RTS picture folders and bookmarks for a dozen or so private RTS bus-sites. And lots of great ideas in the post archives too.
Have fun Cory,
TonyW |