Author |
Message |
Shawn Bennear (Lilneoplan)
Rating: Votes: 2 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, May 21, 2006 - 9:20 am: | |
I have been tinkering around with the fuel gauge on my neoplan. I took the gauge out and cleaned all the terminals. It still pegs at E when the power is on. I then located, after gutting the bus, a plate on the floor that I removed, and wala, there was the fuel sender. I removed that and cleaned it up. It seems to move the gauge, a little erratically, but did move it... until you put it back in the tank. Then straight to E. I can see the fuel at the top of the tank, so I know its full. If I take the two wires that go to the sender and touch them together with the power on, the gauge zips right to full and pegs there. I have come to the conclusion that my sender is bad, perhaps since sitting in diesel fuel for 20 years...lol Is that the conclusion that you all would gather? and then, where would i find this little bugger... thanks as always, Shawn ps, I updated my bus web page too... |
Russ Barnes (Neoruss)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, May 21, 2006 - 9:55 am: | |
Shawn, Have you called NeoPart in PA? Not that they are the low cost provider, but they may be a source. Also is your bus a U.S. built model or a German version? If U.S. built it may be a standard sender that you could get from a truck or bus supply house. Or if it is imported and you can't get one at all then buy a universal sender with adjustable arm that is calibrated by cutting and locating the float for the height of your tank. Then make a round aluminum plate that has the original metric pattern and by using flat head screws from below drilled to the mounting pattern of the universal sender. Just turn the sender enough to fit two sets of holes. |
Geoff (Geoff)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, May 21, 2006 - 10:03 am: | |
If you have two wires going to the sender one is a ground wire and the other is the wire going to the gauge. If you touch them together the gauge should jump to full (which it does you say). So the problem is the sender. Isspro makes a good quality replacement sender, I wouldn't put a cheap one. I don't know anything about a possible different German sender. |
Shawn Bennear (Lilneoplan)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, May 21, 2006 - 1:19 pm: | |
Well, the one thing I am sure of is that the bus was built here in Honeybrook, PA, in 1986. The sender doesnt look all too big, or beefy either. shawn |
Pete/RTS Daytona (Pete_rtsdaytona)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, May 21, 2006 - 4:27 pm: | |
Shawn based on your (greater than full when shorted together) - My guess is your have a FORD / ISSPRO or truck style 240-33 ohms sender) - I believe this style adjustable sender is sold at Pep Boys and others - almost all the other styles would go to empty when shorted BUT to make absolutely sure Go to Radio Shack and get youself a little cheap 5 pack of resistors: R/S # 271-1105 (qty 5 -- 47 ohm Resistor pack) <>with 5 in series - E <>with 4 in series - just past 3/4 <>with 3 in series - near 1/2 <>with 2 in series - just above 1/4 <>with just 1 ------ just above F you have a common FORD / ISSPRO / Truck sender 240 Ohms = empty 33 ohms == full some of the other styles are 0-90 ohms = E-F (GM '65 to present) 0-30 ohms = E -F (GM under '65) 10-180 ohms = E-F (VDO style) 75-10 ohms =E-F (early Ford) P.S there is a 90-0 ohms style listed at egauge which could be yours - if the gauge went 1/2 on one 47 ohms resistor then you may have this style ?? Clear as mud ??? Pete RTS/Daytona |
Pete/RTS Daytona (Pete_rtsdaytona)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, May 21, 2006 - 4:29 pm: | |
OOOOOPs see http://www.egauges.com/vdo_sgrp.asp?Subgroup=Fuel_Senders |
Shawn Bennear (Lilneoplan)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, May 21, 2006 - 6:45 pm: | |
allrighty! I found the problem! But now I have a question. Turns out the float on the sender was full of diesel fuel. There was no way it was going to float when it itself was full. Moving the sender by hand and it worked fine. Now the question. Can I put some of that spray foam insulation or fill the float with silicone? both of these may work, but I need expert opinion. Any thoughts? I dont think I can just buy the float anymore. Shawn |
Jack Conrad (Jackconrad)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, May 21, 2006 - 7:30 pm: | |
Spray foam might work, not sure how it will react with the diesel fuel. I doubt if silicone will work, unless you are only going to use it to seal the float. Silcone is as heavy or heavier than diesel, so it would not allow the float to rise. Jack |
jerry@nc
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, May 21, 2006 - 8:45 pm: | |
Drian the fuel out by drilling a small hole in the copper float after that solder the hole the closed. |
Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, May 22, 2006 - 1:42 am: | |
or get a new float... Napa might have some of if all else fails you can probably find one that will work at McMaster http://www.mcmaster.com/ type in "float" to the search window |
Tom Caffrey (Pvcces)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, May 22, 2006 - 10:41 pm: | |
If the sender wouldn't float, why would it show full on the gauge? Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576 Suncatcher Ketchikan, Alaska |
Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, May 23, 2006 - 2:33 pm: | |
"Drain the fuel out by drilling a small hole in the copper float after that solder the hole the closed." Prior to soldering the hole closed, find the original leak!! Richard |
Jim _Bob
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, May 23, 2006 - 4:03 pm: | |
If you squeeze the float (gently) before drilling the hole, you should find the original leak. |