| Author | Message | ||
| Kevin Hatch
Rating: N/A |
The band and I headed up around the Denver area for a few shows last week. The bus ran great. We had to repower a couple months ago. We went back in with a used 8V71, new clutch, and the origional trans. The only issue (if it is even an issue) I had is about an hour from home the bus acted like the govener wasn't letting me rev quite as high. The bus ran 70-75 all the way to that point, then didn't seem to want to run but about 65. It dosen't have a tach, but my shift points were different according to the speedo. Is it possible for the govener to "back off" or should I be looking more toward the speedometer malfunctioning? It wants to be shifted at slower speeds in all four gears as well as the slower top end according to the speedo. Any suggestions? Thanks! Kevin Hatch 1970 PD-4905 | ||
| DMDave Rating: N/A |
check fuel filters and pickup screen. If it started an hour from home maybe you got some crud in the tank. | ||
| Brian Brown (Blue_velvet)
Rating: N/A |
Dave's probably nailed it. I always carry at least two sets of filters (primary and secondary) and five gallons of diesel in a yellow can (for priming them) in case in need to do a quick filter changes on the road. bb | ||
| Len Silva (Lsilva)
Rating: N/A |
I would check the throttle linkage first, make sure it hasn't slipped. Len Silva | ||
| Kevin Hatch
Rating: N/A |
Are filter changes on the road a pretty frequent thing? I am guessing the pickup screen Dave mentioned is the main pickup inside the tank correct? It dosen't seem to have lost any power up to the govener. Tkanks Guys!! | ||
| Dallas Farnworth (Dal300)
Rating: N/A |
Kevin, I don't know if it works the same way everytime on every DD, but, if the primary starts loading on the engine, it'll feel like you've hit the governor. If it's the secondary, it'll feel like your running low on power. In either case, change both. It's cheap insurance. How would you feel getting almost to a gig and having the filter plug. Then you have to pour fuel into the filter in question, screw it on, and in the meantime, get covered with fuel. No one should smell like fuel in that situation. Replace the filters, $20 or less, total, carry 2 of each with you in case of bad fuel, (I carry a case of each, but I live in my bus), put in a mechanical fuel pressure guage on the output side of the secondary fuel filter. you can use a 0 - 100 lb. oil pressure guage for that. If the engine loses power, walk back with the engine running and look at the guage. if it's above 5 lbs, grab the throttle rod and run the engine up to the governor. If it's less than 50lbs. change filters. For more money put in a Racor fuel water separator. They work good. Hope you work it out, Dallas | ||
| Kevin Hatch
Rating: N/A |
Well I drove the bus this morning and it was back to normal. Makes me think it's definately the fuel filters. I can get the spin-ons at a regular auto parts store can't I? | ||
| Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat)
Rating: N/A |
Probably a local Napa will have the filters. Regular auto stores, maybe but probably not. Make sure you fill them to the top with diesel fuel before screwing them on, or you might find yourself very stuck with air in your fuel system...  | ||
| Brian Brown (Blue_velvet)
Rating: N/A |
For spin-ons, Napa filters #3118 & #3120 are the ones you need. This will get you high-quality Wix filters. Buy at least three of each, and a yellow diesel can, and you'll be in good shape. Takes five minutes to change both. A Carquest can x-ref them for you also, if you don't have a Napa nearby. I wouldn't mess with any of the "lesser" parts stores and brands like Fram, etc. HTH, Brian Brown 4108-216 | ||
| Kevin Hatch
Rating: N/A |
Great! Thanks fellas! I'll pick up some tomorrow. | ||
| FAST FRED Rating: N/A |
"I wouldn't mess with any of the "lesser" parts stores and brands like Fram, etc." In oil filters the tests run by Consumer Reports found FRAM to be the best. Why would you discount using the filter that has the best rating for "first pass removal"? FAST FRED | ||
| Brian Brown (Blue_velvet)
Rating: N/A |
Fred, I didn't see the C.R. article. Was it a big rig diesel filter review? Or an oil filter for a 1.4 liter Escort engine written 10 years ago? And were Wix or Baldwin brands on there? The Consumer part of Consumer Reports make me leary. I'm just recommending what the fleets use. If I'm wrong, I'm wrong, just give us the review data (or Month/Year at least). bb (Message edited by blue_velvet on May 23, 2006) | ||
| FAST FRED Rating: N/A |
The oil filter report was done using NYC taxicabs as test vehicles , as they are driven very indifferently and many get 2 shifts so are a 24/7 operation. It still takes time to put loads of miles on the test cars , and pull oil samples at regular intervals. But the filter medium that gets the most fines on the first pass would seem to be the best. Wix or Baldwin ? vs Fram, Ill take the FRAM. Was on a deadhead one time and sat next to the Saudi Cat guy. Claimed 30,000 hours for their gensets. , before PM overhaul. Clean air with a 10 story Saudi hospital as an air filter. No cold starts , oil was changed on the fly, and all FRAM made filters was his formula for sucess. Good enough for me, FAST FRED | ||
| Brian Brown (Blue_velvet)
Rating: N/A |
Fred, I guess I'm still not convinced. With all due respect, I don't think either application you cite has much relevance for our engines. If one were to Google "ISO 4548-12" they'd get data on HD multi-pass filtration principles and a few tests results. If you want to use Fram filters, be my guest. I'll use what I use, and continue to recommend the same to others. We'll both likely get adequate filtration for the level of service we expect from our mills. Regular filter changes, coupled with engine oil analysis, and regular at-temperature loading and running of the DD (as opposed to letting it sit "un-pickled" or just letting it idle cold) is more important than the filtration media used. On that, I'm certain we're both in agreement. I appreciate your posts, even when we don't agree, sir. bb |