| Author | Message | ||
| FAST FRED Rating: N/A |
Am in the process of building a shed 8ft X 16ft. I found two choices . Dig holes thru the frost line use Sonotubes ,and fill with concrete (ugh!), or here in CT have footings hyd screwed into the ground.This meets the local codes. Happily the footings are removeable , should we need to relocate the shed. The smaller size screw footing 6 cost $740 and could be reused for a light load like a porch , The heavier duty 4 cost $700 , and even better could be re used to hold a 2 story house. Eventually we will build a new house here , but not soon (I hope!) I would prefer the 4 HD units , so that leads me to the question . With support at one end and near the end at the other (some cantilever would be OK), each footing can hold a doubble 2x ? or a tripple if needed. So the question is how DEEP should the 2 x lumber be to suport a normal span of 16 ft? Im guessing a pair of 2x10 front and rear will be strong enough , but almost everyone on this board has more experience with house construction than I do. TIA, folks, FAST FRED | ||
| Jack Conrad (Jackconrad)
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Fred, How much load do you plan to keep in the building? Will the walls be 2x4 studs on 16" centers? Truss roof with plywood and shingles? I noticed you said 6 footings. 16' will probably require at least 2 2X12. If you use 6 footings and reduce your actual span to 8', you can get by with smaller headers Hopefully some of the architects can give you a more precise answer. Jack (Message edited by JackConrad on June 18, 2006) (Message edited by JackConrad on June 18, 2006) | ||
| Kyle Brandt (Kyle4501)
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Hi Fred, The stored load makes a big difference. If the walls are built as shear walls, they will sperad the load very well & you probably won't need more than doubled 2 x 8's for the main runners. I would suggest looking at the display models at the local utility building builder's to see what they use for materials. Good luck with your project, kyle4501 | ||
| Brian Brown (Blue_velvet)
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FF, I'm an architect and can help size the members. There's a few issues, though. With this "pole barn" type construction, you have to rely not only on the beams to support the roof members (trusses or joists if you use cut-lumber), but the span between footings also have to support the lateral (sideways) loads on the walls (wind load). Generally we use what's called purlins to support the intermediate loads and are sized accordingly. A 16' span seems too much without making the walls unusually thick. A cantilever does make sense structurally, but makes it more difficult to attach the siding, trim, and esp. any overhead doors. Have you looked into a metal building package. These are typically very affordable in larger sizes, but yours is probably right on the cusp of affordability beween lumber and steel. Send along some more info, and I'd be happy to help out. Cheers, Brian Brown 4108-216 Longmont, CO | ||
| R.C. Bishop
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Brian....this is a modular, portable (as I understand it) type building that is only 8 feet wide. Seems to me with rafters, a decent pitch and snow load code taken into consideration the entire project should not be a big problem Maybe I am underestimating (I am not an SE, but was in the construction business for many years)the situation, but I agree with Kyle. Seems to me an 8 x 16 building would not need excessive structural stability...especially if the floor is built as part of the structural integrity of the building. Perhaps I mis-read Freds post, but I know that if it were my building, I would not use more that 2 by 4, typical house construction,,,laterally supported and double 2x4 header supporting rafters. (If built as quasi trusses, they would serve as overhead storage). Add to that a 4 x 8 exterior siding ( T111 or similar) and the structural integrity should be enough for most any load. Tie downs not included. And local code may predicate that. FWIW RCB | ||
| niles steckbauer (Niles500)
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FF - 16' is quite a span between piers (I am assuming these are beams and you are going to place your floor joists on top of them - this would make it easier to move the shed later as you alluded - if you plan on using the 2x's as rim joists that's a differnt story) - I believe it would take trip 2x10's or even 12's depending on the lumber your using - I would go w/ the 6 piers where the span would be cut to 8' and doubled 2x10's should suffice - make sure and wood glue the members (you'd be surprised how much strength it adds) - HTH | ||
| Brian Brown (Blue_velvet)
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RC, I wasn't thinking that there was going to be a floor. If it's a building with a floor, yes, it's a different puppy. Just build it as an intact structure that can be drug around anywhere, and there's no lateral loads to be concerned about. 2x4 or even 2x3 walls are adequate... build just like a TuffShed or similar. But from his post, I was visualizing a pole barn construction... four footings, four columns, and dirt floor. And for that one, yes, the 8' wide roof isn't much of a concern, but a 16' span on the roof/ wall beams indeed is. (2) 2x12's HemFir #2 or better just to meet roof deflection criteria alone. 1600# or more (depends on snow load) on each footing ain't much either, but a LOT is supported by the beams in a pole barn with 16' spans. I guess we need FF to give us some more info... bb | ||
| R.C. Bishop
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Brian...I absolutely agree with you....perhaps I just misread his intent; I guess it was the screw in's that threw me. ??? Seems to me it would be difficult to "move" without the bottom being tied together..... Ah yes, ain't this a wunerful forum?  RCB | ||
| Dallas Farnworth (Dal300)
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I may be totally wrong here, but let me have a go at this: You want an 8' X 16' shed? For that size, is it really required by code to have footers? Could it not be built on 4-4"X4" runners or even 4-6"X6"? Then using 2X6 floor joists, and 2X6 bands with 5/8" or 3/4" OSB subflooring, tied to the runners you could use 2X4 walls and 2X4 roof trusses on 16" centers. Build the roof trusses with a pitch somewhere around 7/12 and cover with 1/2" OSB. Your snowload will be sufficient to hold the snow and the 8V92 you want to string from the rafters. Wall it in with T-111 siding or OSB with your favorite sidng material tied to the banding around the bottom and you have a shed that is both strong and moveable anytime you want. Total cost will be in the 2-3K range and if really required by code, add another couple of hundred to pour a concrete footer for the runners. Tie the runners to the footers with bolts. This ain't Rocket surgery, KISS. Again, I may be missing something, but it sounds like you are looking for something a little stonger than the sheds at Lowes or HD. If you want , send me an email and exact dimensions of roof pitch, snow load requirements and minimum code requirements. I've seen lots of the portable buildings when I was trucking through CT, is there a reason to have it tied to the ground? Is there going to be an excessive load on the floor structure, like maybe an electric fork lift? I hope this helps, Dallas | ||
| motorcoach1 Rating: N/A |
If it Matters i put up a Quonset building for 2500 new no ends and set it on a slab with 2each 4x5 steel rails bolted to the slab and the building bolted to the rails totals out 3300 and 45 man hrs 3 men to construct in one week 25 x 40 bought from Pionner and just called them up and told them what i was looking for and to see what best buy i could get and sent a check ...NO SALESMan,,, do the deal or forget it . that how i bought it and it came out great. just unbolt and move | ||
| FAST FRED Rating: N/A |
Thanks for all the info folks. The "shed" concept is just to get around the local building tax folks. Our place in CT is only 700sq ft or so and was built as a summer cottage. No insulation ect , built in the 30's and with the additions over the years , its not great , but works for our lifestyle. The front entry has a bump out that is 5X5 ft. I'm planning on tearing that down and installing a front door in the house shell. The "shed will be free standing in front of the house door , and simply be used as an unheated closet. No building permit is required for a shed , mine will not be attached to the house , just look like it grew there, 1/2 inch away.. The storage loads are quite light , although in CT snow load IS a consideration. Std 2x4walls, 2x6+ ply floor and ply siding will be used. Yes after living in FL I'm familiar with the fantastic advantages of glue before nailing, so the shed can be saved , if we get the desire to blow down the cottage. Probably never will , as if we build a REAL house the locals will want 6 to 8K a year for the privelidge of being here for 3 or 4 months a year.. Now its only $2K. Might be worth it full time , but not now as we still go wandering too much. Will use the 6 posts , a new place would probably have a porch and the lighter lumber is less weight to handle. Thanks !! FAST FRED |