| Author |
Message |
Wayne Buttress (Flyingb) (66.52.189.181)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2001 - 1:21 pm: | |
Hi guys,
I just purchased 4 12v deep cycle batteries (for house batteries) and because I'm weak on automotive electrical issues I could use advise on hooking them up.
I have an NJ Eagle 20, with a 300amp alternator. How do I use the alternator to charge the "house batteries"?
When connecting the 4 batteries together to maintain 12v do you connect poss (+) to neg (-)?
Any info or help is appreciated.
Regards, Wayne |
J.C. Barnett (Eagle) (209.214.168.175)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2001 - 4:06 pm: | |
Connect + Positive to + Positive. - Neg to - Neg to keep your batteries at 12 Volts. You would have to run battery cables to your alternator or to the coach batteries to charge the house batteries. |
DrivingMissLazy (65.207.109.163)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2001 - 5:35 pm: | |
You also need either a diode isolator or a heavy duty relay to connect/disconnect the house batteries from the starting batteries when the engine is turned off. Otherwise you risk the chance of running down your starting batteries while out boondocking.
I prefer the relay approach since it energizes when the start/stop switch is turned on, and de-energizes when it is turned off.
A disadvantage of the isolator is that there is a voltage drop across the diode which lowers the charge voltage to the house batteries.
Most recommend additionally that a three stage regulator be installed on your alternator to maintain the proper charge level.
Richard
Richard |
David Anderson (168.215.176.145)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2001 - 9:51 pm: | |
Dick Wright at Wrico sells a merge switch that can be hooked to an oil pressure sensor which engages the switch only after the engine is running thus avoiding the amp load of the starter on the switch. That is the way I hooked mine up. It works great. |
doug woodin (207.69.118.5)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2001 - 10:02 pm: | |
West Marine sells a device called a battery "combiner" It automatically joins all batterys while charging from alternator without any voltage drop. When the charging stops{alternator off} it separates house and starting banks automatically. I plan on using this device in my Eagle 01. |
Jim Stacy (32.101.44.69)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2001 - 10:30 pm: | |
Is this Eagle 20 alternator 24 Volt? If so, Wayne has a problem.
Jim Stacy |
Loren (209.98.3.203)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2001 - 11:35 pm: | |
If 24 volt alternator, then 2 batteries must be connect + to -, with the resulting 2 battery set connected + to + and - to -. Remember black is negative. With 4 batteries, you make 2, two battery sets, and connect them + to + to the + lead and - to - to the - lead. A series, parallel setup.
Of course, if the anticipated loads are 12 volt, then he has the battery balancing problem, which has been discussed here before. |
Scott Whitney (24.205.234.189)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 21, 2001 - 2:42 am: | |
You can also use a super-heavy duty marine style swtich to connect and disconnect the two battery banks (assuming both are 12v or both 24v etc.) The advantage is simplcity and complete control over the situation. The disadvantage, is if you forget to disconnect them while dry camping and run both banks down, there goes your starting ability. I suppose another advantage might be that you can combine the banks, at will, for extra starting current if one of your engine starting batteries died unexpectedly.
Scott |
FAST FRED (209.26.87.88)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 21, 2001 - 5:48 am: | |
The RV folks simple solution ,
seperate systems ,House and start,
only merged when engine is charging ,
via a simple selonoid is painless to use.
On a coach the only hassle is the unit should handle about 200A ,
rather than the 75A claimed for the $15.00 RV unit.
The KISS principal can be used to slim down the choices .
A class T fuse in the house supply will help if the new wiring has a problem.
FAST FRED |
R Johnstone (Chilebrew) (164.64.174.66)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 21, 2001 - 12:26 pm: | |
Eagle 20 engine alt is 12v. AC alt is 24v. |
Scott Whitney (24.205.234.189)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 21, 2001 - 1:22 pm: | |
In that case, there is some real consideration that needs to go into Waynes' system. He needs to decide whether he wants to run a 24v house system or a 12v house system. Get the juice from which alternator, and whether he is keeping bus AC or not. Recommend he looks up threads dealing with 'equalizers' etc. for background. Sounds like his question may not have a simple answer, but rather will require a more thought-out design.
Scott |
Wayne Buttress (Flyingb) (66.52.189.183)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 21, 2001 - 7:29 pm: | |
Thanks for all the advice. I found the "combiner" at West Marine web site. Sounds like the perfect solution for charging both sets of batteries. There is also a set of installation instructions for thick headed folks like me.
If anyone has used a "Pathmaker Battery Combiner" with a large output alternator (300amps-12v) I would like to pick your brain.
Thanks again for all the advice, Wayne |
R Johnstone (Chilebrew) (64.12.103.28)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 23, 2001 - 4:21 pm: | |
WAIT A MINUTE! Eagle 20 is 12v lighting, starter, instruments, etc. Chassis batteries are paralleled 12v. Engine drives 300amp oil-cooled 12v alternator to charge.
For air-conditioning, the engine drives an electric clutched compressor and a 24v alternator which powers a 24v water pump to circulate coolant for coach heat. There is no 24v battery set-up. |
Jim Stacy (32.101.44.31)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 23, 2001 - 10:43 pm: | |
It's also a good idea to pick the solenoid when 120 VAC is available. This allows the inverter charger to charge both banks when you plug into a land line or run the gen set.
I haven't come up with a low current way to tie the banks together when the solar panels are the only source. Perhaps a diode isolator with a Schotsky diode design would work. Hmmmm.
Jim Stacy |
FAST FRED (209.26.87.72)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 24, 2001 - 4:51 am: | |
JIM ,The Cole Hersey folks now make a good sized selinoid that is latching .(Marine stuff}
It only costs power to switch fron open to closed , on to off.
Would this solve your problem?
Seem to remember its 75A or so ,
would take care of a LOT of solar!
FAST FRED |
Dale Leyten (216.23.152.10)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 24, 2001 - 10:15 am: | |
Cole Hersee latching solenoid 12v # 24200 - 110A continuous - small term 10-32 - large term 5/16-24 - requires less than 3.5A to operate. I have been trying to get them to make 'em in 24V, but no joy yet. |
DrivingMissLazy (65.207.109.48)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 24, 2001 - 6:36 pm: | |
If the solenoid only requires less than a second to latch or un-latch, a 3 to 5 ohm, 10 watt, wire wound resistor in series with the 24 volts would drop it down to 12 volts, and the resistor would not overheat for that short period of time.
If you needed it to operate it continously, you would need a 50 watt rated resistor which would over a period of time get pretty hot.
Richard |
Dale Leyten (216.23.152.10)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 26, 2001 - 10:23 am: | |
Thanks richard. I will for sure give this idea a try. I plan on using latching solenoids to lock all my doors - entrance, baggage compartments, engine access, etc. One push of button on remote control and viola! all unlocked. And vice versa. Thanks for the tip. Best of the season. Dale |
DrivingMissLazy (65.207.109.57)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 27, 2001 - 5:22 am: | |
Thanks for the tip rating. One thing I did not mention, if you are going to use multiple solenoids at the same time, you will need a resistor for each solenoid. But they are cheap.
Richard |