| Author |
Message |
R.C.Bishop (128.123.88.41)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 01, 2002 - 9:14 pm: | |
Our 1964 Crown Highway Coach has boo coo (+-) rivets in the area around the bus, below the windows. I am placing 18 guage steel where three windows were on each side of the bus as well as in the rear where a picture size window now resides.
All of one side has been completed and looks good, BUT, I do not like the looks of the "closed end" rivets, with a hole in each head. I've used poly to close it, but that is an iffy thing. Haven't tried bondo, but feel sure that will be more problems than it is worth. Thus far, I have affixed about 100 of them with more than two hundred yet to do. ALL of these rivets are blind, no way to access with an anvil from behind.
I called the local FASTENAL manager who came out and says he has the answer, but they told me that once before...NOT. Asked for samples before I buy and do the process all over again.
Any ideas out there?
Thanx for the help. And Happy New Year.
RCB |
bobm (152.163.194.207)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 02, 2002 - 10:29 am: | |
I made a couple of pop rivets look like real rivets by using jb weld(powdered steel epoxy)and filled in the hole.i matched the surrounding rivets and it seems to hold |
R.C.Bishop (128.123.88.37)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, January 06, 2002 - 7:22 pm: | |
I attempted the same thing, but didn't like the results. messy and need lots of cosmetic treatment afterwords. Hardly worth the effort, for me any way.
there must be a better way.
RCB |
Scott Whitney (24.205.235.27)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 07, 2002 - 4:55 pm: | |
There is a better way.
You can get shave head rivets, which look nearly identical to buck rivets. These pull the mandrel out past the head. Then you use a special $80 tool to shave the mandel down flush with the head. Only a close inspection tells you it is not a buck rivet. Couple coats of paint and I doubt you could tell at all.
The other option, which I am using, is the Interlock rivet. It pulls the mandrel flush with the head. You can still see a circle shape on close inspection, but from four feet away, you can't tell there was ever a hole. No puddy, no mess, just a nice flush rivet.
But you will need an hydraulic or air riveter to set them unless you have the hands of Paul Bunyen. I get mine from FSI (see the Bus Conversion Mag ads). Or I can look up the contact info.
I use the stainless steel ones PN #SSPI 6-4 (Z5425). I forget the min & max grip range, but it works well for sheet metal to square tubing, example. They are about $10/100.
Scott |
R.C.Bishop (128.123.88.25)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 07, 2002 - 8:04 pm: | |
Scott, Thanx for the input.
Is the Interlock rivet you mention a brand name or a type rivet?. I pretty much use Fastenal as a supplier, and I find nothing in their 2.5 inch thick catalog. The local Mgr is in COLD MPLS for a training session this week, but hope to get with him on Monday next. Stainless is fine, but since the sheet is steel and aluminum, and they are inserted on 2.5 inch centers, doubt I would need the structural integrity. Also using SikaFlex with them. Their prices are super for stainless. I purchased three different sizes of screws today, 200 of each. Total bill, with tax, $10.78, Closest competitor, over $26 per 100. (imported, I'm sure at Fastenal.)
Thanx again,
RCB |
Scott Whitney (24.205.239.26)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 07, 2002 - 10:22 pm: | |
Hi RCB,
I believe Interlock is a registered trade name. Appears to be a Cherry product. Have a look here:
http://www.fsirivet.com/Cherry/39.gif
Here is FSI's Web site. It is a little confusing and I can't find the rivets I used, but gives some contact info.
http://www.fsirivet.com/
The part numbers I gave in my other post MAY be a Cherry part number. I don't know. But my dealings with FSI have been pleasant. They were in Laughlin and gave a very informative seminar. If you call them, you can place an order by credit card and have a bag of rivets at your door about a week later.
Scott |
drwheat57 (24.158.28.11)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 08, 2002 - 11:10 am: | |
Mr Bishop: What do you mean, "COLD MINNEAPOLIS"? In Duluth, 150 miles to the north it will be +39 today!!! :-)
Dave Wheat |
DrivingMissLazy (65.207.109.14)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 08, 2002 - 5:52 pm: | |
I have a whole handfull of little dohickies that look like a rivet head with a little 1/8 pin on it. You just drive it in the hole gently and it looks like a solid rivet. I have several on my bus and can not distinguish from the originals. I got mine from Eagle years ago. Jefferson Coach may have them, or one of the rivet supply houses. Don't know what they are called.
Richard |
R.C.Bishop (128.123.88.28)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 08, 2002 - 10:26 pm: | |
Richard, that's my PROBLEM. What are they called and where does one get them. The ones I used are as you described, but at the bottom line, they look terrible with big dimples.
Thanx, RCB
Hey, Dave......I spent a year in MPLS in early January in the 60's; some things haven't defrosted yet....
A cool 70 degrees in the Land of Enchantment today. (Las Cruces)
CHEERS!,
RCB |
Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy) (65.207.109.129)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 09, 2002 - 6:12 am: | |
RC, unfortunately I do not know what they are called and it is really hard to describe. The shaft s are either 1/8 or 3/16th inch in diameter and approximately 3/4 inch long. They fit in the hole of standard pop rivets. The head looks just like a rivet. They are designed to be a tight fit in the hole of an installed pop rivet. You have to drive the pulling shank of the pop rivet back out of the rivet and then drive the dohickey in the empty hole. The top of this does not have a dimple. It is rounded, just like a rivet head. It ia a fairly tight fit and I actually had to use a 1/8 drill bit on some of the pop rivets to get this insert in. I am sure they are available, but I do not know where.
Richard |
tfones (Chapter7) (159.49.254.12)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 09, 2002 - 10:16 am: | |
Bought my rivet caps from R&M
tony |
tfones (Chapter7) (159.49.254.12)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 09, 2002 - 10:25 am: | |
Link for Rivet caps.
www.rm-fiberglass.com
tony |
genelewis (166.82.235.42)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 09, 2002 - 1:33 pm: | |
FWIW here's another source for caps as well as rivets--
Automotive Fasteners, Inc
2111 S. Elm - Eugene St.
Greensboro, NC 27406
1-800-632-0340
Item # MPA6 Alum Plug for 3/16 Blind Rivet |
R.C.Bishop (128.123.88.12)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 09, 2002 - 7:58 pm: | |
R&M what? and Where? And Thanx to you Gene. I'll give them a call.
Thanx, RCB |
Scott Whitney (24.205.239.26)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 09, 2002 - 10:22 pm: | |
R & M Fiberglass
P.O. Box 796
Turner, Or. 97392
Phone: 503-743-2211 or 1-800-350-1656
http://www.rm-fiberglass.com/
information@rm-fiberglass.com
Scott |
R.C.Bishop (128.123.88.26)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 09, 2002 - 11:37 pm: | |
Gotcha!....Thanx, Fellas. (Are those caps fibreglass? ; think I have a few of those showing, they need to be replaced.)
RCB |
DrivingMissLazy (65.207.109.67)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2002 - 10:25 am: | |
No, they are aluminum. They sometimes have a tendency to work loose. Probably would be a good idea to use a little LockTite on them.
Richard |