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Bill Baxter (Willum)
Registered Member
Username: Willum

Post Number: 4
Registered: 3-2006
Posted From: 68.186.14.84

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Posted on Thursday, July 20, 2006 - 9:31 pm:   

I have seen one post regarding the ways of plugging
the outside holes on 6/2006. The guys were going to
try different things but never did hear how they
ended up doing it. As of now, my inner side panels
are left in place. So what is the best way to cover
the outside holes?

Any advice or suggestions will be appreciated.

Bill
Marc Bourget
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Posted From: 64.142.42.176

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Posted on Friday, July 21, 2006 - 12:56 am:   

I wouldn't convert a MCI without removing the shear panels. Too much leakage, too soggy insulation that will virtually never dry out. Wet fiberglas insulation don't insulate! Too great a possibility of substantial corrosion.

Best to remove and sealing holes will be anticlimactic

BTDT
John MC9
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Posted From: 66.217.106.104

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Posted on Friday, July 21, 2006 - 9:31 am:   

"Too great a possibility of substantial corrosion"?

If a (1980s) bus has gone as many miles and years without
suffering from intense corrosion, during all the years of rain
and washing against all the windows.......

And we're converting that bus, replacing glass with metal...
And we're sealing areas where seals were worn for years...

Why should we be concerned with a newly developed
"possibility of substantial corrosion"? If anything,
there would be less of a possibility after the conversion,
than before.

The bus would remain as structurally sound as it was originally
designed, by leaving the panels in place, and building over them.
I wouldn't worry about "moisture", and the insulation will dry
out in the conversion, just as it had during it's life inside a bus.

It would be better to seal the vent from the inside, leaving the
outside appearance as-is. I've been planning to re-use the vent
for an exhaust/intake fan. There can be days that slow-moving
floor (and roof) fans can be more pleasant than a roaring air
conditioner.

No "rights" or "wrongs", just different choices!
Marc Bourget
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Posted From: 64.142.42.176

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Posted on Friday, July 21, 2006 - 11:57 am:   

JTNG, you missed my point.

Without opening the closed area, all you can state is a possibility.

To me a near certainty. Between Gumpy's two MCIs and my two, we're batting 1.000.

Finally, you can't seal the external perferations "from the inside" without removing either the external skin or the internal shear plates.

No doubt some form of bondo might work, but the recommendation extended from an initial suggestion of using an internal plate and Sikkaflex.

Onward and Upward
David (Davidinwilmnc)
Registered Member
Username: Davidinwilmnc

Post Number: 134
Registered: 7-2005
Posted From: 65.184.52.215

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Posted on Friday, July 21, 2006 - 3:57 pm:   

FWIW, my MC-8 had insulation bags FULL of water in the walls. As much as people are concerned with moisture and mold in a house, I don't see why one wouldn't be concerned in a bus. My bus rust didn't look as bad as Gumpy's bus pics, but there were places where the framing was rusted through. I insulated with foam board and sealed around that with expanding foam (after repairing the rust). It's noticibly cooler than last summer. I haven't changed the insulation in the ceiling yet, but 1 15K Carrier A/C can keep it comfortable in 90° heat (after running for a couple of hours)in the sun. There's no way I'd want that nasty stuff in my walls. Besides, I found current leaks that I wouldn't have known about if I hadn't removed those inside panels. One is from somewhere above and the water comes down the diagonal frame behind the triange window. I've not found the source yet. I think that one can probably do a fine conversion without removing those panels, but, to me, removing them, repairing any damage, and reinsulating is the RIGHT way to do it.

David
John MC9
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Posted From: 66.217.108.81

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Posted on Friday, July 21, 2006 - 8:20 pm:   

Good points well taken, guys!

I suppose it's all about what one is expecting out of the bus,
in the long-term?

I doubt I'll be using the bus for more than 10 years. Between
now, and 10 years from now, I wouldn't expect the bus to
deteriorate any faster than it's been deteriorating for the past
30 years. If there's rust, it'll have to be repaired/replaced. If
I go ripping apart things to go looking for it, I probably won't
get to see 5 years of rolling usage.

For those that are young(er) and have the time and cash,
I don't blame them one bit for wanting to turn a sow's ear
into a silk purse. For those of us that are a bit late in life and
just would like to have our own conversion to relax in, and
maybe visit a few areas... Why worry about "possible" faults?
Fix what -has- to be fixed, convert what has to be converted,
and get it rolling. Enjoy RVing in it, before it's too late.


Just my felopsidy.
David Hartley (Drdave)
Registered Member
Username: Drdave

Post Number: 657
Registered: 5-2005
Posted From: 67.78.176.54

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Posted on Saturday, July 22, 2006 - 9:26 pm:   

I used 15 mil white vinyl sign material and covered the vent panels on the outside.

I had the vinyl and the holes... just added them
together...no more holes and don't look half bad.
took all of 5 minutes...
David Hartley (Drdave)
Registered Member
Username: Drdave

Post Number: 658
Registered: 5-2005
Posted From: 67.78.176.54

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Posted on Saturday, July 22, 2006 - 9:30 pm:   

small picture of vinyl...hidden
JR
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 69.132.238.127

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Posted on Sunday, July 23, 2006 - 8:38 pm:   

I come down on John MC9's side on this issue.
Clearly cannot find fault with those that wish to open the walls up, but that process is a show-stopper for some converters. You gotta be dedicated to do all that work. I didn't get into my inner walls and, of course, may have a wall full of water, but if so, it doesn't smell of mold and mildew. I have a benefit in keeping the coach inside when not in use. Even when in heavy rains during use, there's no indication of leaks other than the windshield mouldings...and they are new. I'd worry more about what's in the heater ducts than the side of an otherwise smooth sided coach. Some people have more time to devote to these sorts of labor intensive jobs and those that have the time and money, and a place to do the work...more power to them! However, anything close to perfection in an old coach is going to a long road. By the time you get one system 100%, you gotta start at the other end...sorta like mowing grass.
Good luck, JR
BTW, David, get that bus going...you got two months! See ya at Timmonsville!

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