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T. (Bluegrass)
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Username: Bluegrass

Post Number: 207
Registered: 4-2002
Posted From: 72.160.132.158

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Posted on Tuesday, September 19, 2006 - 7:37 pm:   

Hey Guys and Gals,
I have a 1985 eagle model 10 and what I was wondering Is If any one has had the same problem as I am haveing, the rearend has a loud clunking sound and (It Is not the u joint) I have checked them It apears to be In the rearend. at least that Is where It seems to be comeing from, when I put It In gear It turnes about 1/4 of a turn
don (Bottomacher)
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Username: Bottomacher

Post Number: 140
Registered: 12-2000
Posted From: 72.15.81.101

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Posted on Tuesday, September 19, 2006 - 7:51 pm:   

What turns? How is your clutch adjustment?
Bob greenwood (Bob_greenwood)
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Username: Bob_greenwood

Post Number: 153
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 4.226.105.8

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Posted on Tuesday, September 19, 2006 - 8:33 pm:   

could be the pinion nut,put it in neutral & grab the driveshaft, & turn it both directions, if it seem to be climbing out of the pumkin, the pinion nut is loose,& needs to be REPLACED, if you hear the clunking INSIDE,ya' got expencive problems & driveing it might be disastorus.
T. (Bluegrass)
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Username: Bluegrass

Post Number: 208
Registered: 4-2002
Posted From: 72.160.132.158

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Posted on Tuesday, September 19, 2006 - 8:40 pm:   

Don It dont have a clutch, It Is automatic
T. (Bluegrass)
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Username: Bluegrass

Post Number: 209
Registered: 4-2002
Posted From: 72.160.132.158

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Posted on Tuesday, September 19, 2006 - 8:43 pm:   

Thanks Bob
just a little bit more Info, where do I get a pinion nut, do i need a crush sleve also
Bob greenwood (Bob_greenwood)
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Username: Bob_greenwood

Post Number: 154
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 4.227.114.111

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Posted on Tuesday, September 19, 2006 - 10:37 pm:   

you need to see if it loose first...if you need a new one ..Jefferson bus 800-813-9367....do not overtighten,snug & just a little more,they have the little nylon tits on the inside & are not to be reused
bus05eagle
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Posted From: 74.33.62.57

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Posted on Wednesday, September 20, 2006 - 12:40 am:   

T,the model 10s have a drop box and you can not get to the pinion with out removing the drop box the yoke where the drive shaft bolts on is not the pinion.the drop box has 4 bearing that some time go out if not kept full of 90 weight oil i hope that this your only problem good luck
Tom Hamrick (Tomhamrick)
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Username: Tomhamrick

Post Number: 67
Registered: 12-2000
Posted From: 167.83.101.23

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Posted on Wednesday, September 20, 2006 - 8:34 am:   

Bob, Here is a reprint of my story.

I posted a question in October about a roaring that started in my Eagle after going over a very uneven section of interstate. Since you were all so helpful and maybe to be of help to someone else I wanted to let you know what we found. With the aid of a mechanic friend it was determined that something was definitely wrong in the drive train. With the bus jacked up and letting the engine idle in drive, a click could heard and could be felt by placing a hand on the pumpkin. Upon removal of the drop box it was discovered that the top drive gear had a section of about 5 teeth where about 1/3 of each tooth was missing. The same was true for the drive gear mounted on the pinion shaft. Even though there was no obvious damage, we removed the differential as well so that it could be checked out. Both pieces were taken to a local big truck transmission specialist for repair. He determined that not only were the two drive gears broken, but the center idler gear in the drop box was worn out and needed replacing also. He also said that the play in the idler gear was the probable cause for the other gears breaking on the bump.
Since he was told by Rockwell that these were special gears that would have to be made and it would be 8 weeks before they could ship them, he ask that I check around with bus suppliers to find the gears. I did find them in stock but the price I was quoted for just the 3 gears was $3600 with the center idler gear alone being $1800. This did not include the cost of the bearings and the shafts that go through the gears and into the bearings or the labor to rebuild. What I did find was that Jefferson Bus had a brand new drop box from Rockwell for $4080. This did not include the drive gear on the pinion shaft, which was an additional $725. Bottom line the cost was $4900 including shipping to get everything new. I thought this to be the better choice since it appeared to be cheaper than buying the parts and having them installed. The differential checked out fine so nothing had to be done to it. We are supposed to get all this installed tomorrow and get back on the road. The bad part of this is I have heard a slight whine in the rear end since owning the bus and meant to get it checked, but just never took the time. It would have still cost at least $2000 to replace the worn idler gear, but that would be about $3000 cheaper than where I am now. I just hope my lesson learned will help someone else.

Tom Hamrick
1984 Eagle 10S
Bob greenwood (Bob_greenwood)
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Username: Bob_greenwood

Post Number: 156
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 4.227.116.124

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Posted on Wednesday, September 20, 2006 - 8:57 am:   

T........you definitly need to find somebody that has some experience working on this system, I would not drive it one more mile & if it is going to be towed to the shop the rear drive axels need to be removed, (the ring of 10 bolts in the center of the drive axels)the more things you break ,the more expencive it's going to be,call Luke for some good advice on the repair..888-262-2434
Bob greenwood (Bob_greenwood)
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Username: Bob_greenwood

Post Number: 157
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 4.227.112.224

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Posted on Wednesday, September 20, 2006 - 9:17 am:   

T..
you don't show on your profile where you are.The very best thing & more than likely ,the cheapest,will be to buy a COMPLETE rear end tire to tire, I know of a interior fire Eagle in Tulsa,can get his phone number,buy it and install it,that's my advice. you will need a GOOD 4 wheel trailer to haul it home.I am not affiliated with him ,or trying to make any profit from this,
T. (Bluegrass)
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Username: Bluegrass

Post Number: 210
Registered: 4-2002
Posted From: 72.160.132.158

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Posted on Wednesday, September 20, 2006 - 10:21 am:   

Hello Bob
I am vermilion Ohio, my email addressee is
jth@centurytel.net I cant believe this Is happening this cottonpicker was doing so well I had a MCI-7 for 19 years and never a minutes problem with it I supposed I should have stuck with it. the rear-end Is just in the starting stage of the problem I am sure It just makes this sound when I put It In gear that sounds like a u joint going out
but I have checked the u joints and as far as I can tell they are OK, Bob If you will send me this guys telephone NO and or his email addressee just In case I need It I will be forever greatful.
but I do sincerely want to thank everyone for the help.
Tony
T. (Bluegrass)
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Username: Bluegrass

Post Number: 211
Registered: 4-2002
Posted From: 72.160.132.158

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Posted on Wednesday, September 20, 2006 - 10:27 am:   

bus05eagle
This rear-end was full of grease when this happend Is there some place the drop box can be greased I cant find a place to put In grease.
Bob greenwood (Bob_greenwood)
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Username: Bob_greenwood

Post Number: 158
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 4.227.117.117

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Posted on Wednesday, September 20, 2006 - 5:19 pm:   

if you have a quarter turn of slop in the rear end, I can guarantee you grease will not fix it
john w. roan (Chessie4905)
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Username: Chessie4905

Post Number: 308
Registered: 10-2003
Posted From: 69.162.3.30

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Posted on Wednesday, September 20, 2006 - 5:41 pm:   

If the rear end ( ring and pinion is noisy and has 1/4 of a turn,( I'm talking about the yoke attached to the pinion shaft of the differential) it is severely worn or you have some bearings going bad, most likely the pinion bearings, which will allow the pinion to move slightly fore and aft and side to side. If you are lucky, this can be repaired by replacing all the bad bearings. Probably will need the differential side bearings also. Then you will need someone who knows what he is doing to reset the proper gear backlash and bearing preload. If things are bad long enough, either the teeth will start to chip or wear improperly, causing eventual catastropic destruction or rear end whine even after a rebuild. The whine and slop is telling you that it needs attention.If the slop is at the drop box, then you could have problems like Bob's which, for me, might give thoughts of suicide after facing his bill.

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