| Author | Message | ||
| Duane Bratvold (Connieandduane)
Registered Member Username: Connieandduane Post Number: 20 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 205.242.83.12 Rating: N/A |
I had my detail shop wash the Bus for me yesterday, exterior only, not the engine compartment. Now I notice that the bus quit charging. Pops had told me that he had trouble at one time with a ground strap by the starter. Crawled up under the bus and don't see any problems wioth them. My question is, is the alternator internaly regulated on an 8v71 or externally? Then my second question in the conversion from the 6 cyl to the 8 does any of the electrical system need to be changed? | ||
| jim (Jimmci9)
Registered Member Username: Jimmci9 Post Number: 7 Registered: 3-2004 Posted From: 198.213.138.99 Rating: |
the 4104 uses an old "carbon pile" voltage regulator...it's located in a compartment on the curbside, last door before the engine compartment... the 4104 uses the bus body/frame for grounding purposes.... i'd suggest making a new ground cable that goes from the ground lug on the starter to the rear bulkhead... and making another that goes to the battery bank, located on the drivers side...use 2/0 battery cable...the original "grounded" to the bulhead...after 40 plus yrs, i'm sure that there is some corrosion somewhere....i have 2good used voltage regulators if you need them...also have the circuit breaker that is mounted right next to the regulator.( my email is jimcat2@webtv.net ).. as far as changing from 6cyl to 8,aslong as you stay with 12 volts, everthing should work....richard boyer (driving miss lazy)can coach you on that.... | ||
| john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Registered Member Username: Chessie4905 Post Number: 361 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 71.58.126.56 Rating: |
If you have the regulator in the rear side compartment, get rid of that system when you make the change, as they are a constant maintenance item, due to the points in them. You'll have enough other items to maintain anyway. They make alternators that put out 160 amps or more with an internal regulator that is adjustable. If you go with a belt drive system, you don't have to deal with the expense if the gear drive type fails and takes out the drive gear train that runs the cams and other accessories. If you do use one of the oil cooled, direct drive systems, at least make sure that you or someone understands how to center the mounting adapter that goes between the alternator and gear/ bellhousing cover.. see DDA shop manual.As far as your problem now, if you have the regulator with points, they may need cleaned with some crocus cloth, or the circuit breaker in that same compartment may have kicked. Did the compartment get water in it when washing? As your coach is a 1960, it may have an alternator already with a small solid state regulator. In that case, never mind. Not sure if they had a circuit breaker on that system. Did you get manuals with your coach? If not, get them- I think they are available from one of the vendors on this site. | ||
| Duane Bratvold (Connieandduane)
Registered Member Username: Connieandduane Post Number: 21 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 205.242.83.12 Rating: N/A |
Thanks Jim and John. This gives me exactly what I needed to know. Have a wonderful Christmas Holiday! | ||
| Gus Causbie (Gusc)
Registered Member Username: Gusc Post Number: 257 Registered: 11-2005 Posted From: 206.40.238.17 Rating: N/A |
My 4104 with original 671 still has the old unused reg in place but is converted to a 160 amp belt driven alt which yours probably has now. My old reg is used only as a heavy duty battery cable terminal post. As John said, if you still have the original gen (doubtful) get rid of it as soon as possible. There is not one reason I can think of for keeping it except for a museum restoration! More probable places for corrosion are both terminal electrical boxes, the one on the RR and the one just to the left of the driver. I spent a lot of time cleaning up these terminal posts and the nuts holding them tight, all were badly corroded. At all your ground connections either remove and clean the cable ends and mounting points or loosen just enough to move them in about a 60degree arc, this will usually clean them if they are left tight enough to cut through the corrosion. I also coat all mine with anti-corrosion oil. I use Corrosion X but any good one will work fine. | ||
| Gus Causbie (Gusc)
Registered Member Username: Gusc Post Number: 258 Registered: 11-2005 Posted From: 206.40.238.17 Rating: N/A |
Forgot one thing, if the pressure washer was really powerful it is possible that it sprayed through the RR engine cover gills and went into the alt-this happened to me. If so, it will dry out in a while and start working again! | ||
| Duane Bratvold (Connieandduane)
Registered Member Username: Connieandduane Post Number: 22 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 24.17.249.153 Rating: N/A |
Ok I found the compartment. Is this the regulator? It has a delco number on it. # 9000551 2434. I opened up the case and the circut board looks like it has been repaired a couple of times. Also I noticed that the lug on the aleternator is lose. Am I on the right track?  | ||
| joe padberg (Joemc7ab)
Registered Member Username: Joemc7ab Post Number: 62 Registered: 6-2004 Posted From: 66.38.159.33 Rating: N/A |
That sure looks like a regulator to me. Your problem may be caused by the loose lug on the altenator Joe. | ||
| Duane Bratvold (Connieandduane)
Registered Member Username: Connieandduane Post Number: 23 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 24.17.249.153 Rating: N/A |
Well it turned out to be a couple of problems. 1 the lose lug on the alternator was one. The second was a lose ground cable that Pops had replaced earlier. Jim and John you were both right. Although this regulator to me did not have points inside. it looked like a solid state system. I think I will go on the hunt for another just in case. I have a rebuilt alternator that I got with the bus, but it looks like it would be fun to change. Thanks to everyone for your help. | ||
| Gus Causbie (Gusc)
Registered Member Username: Gusc Post Number: 267 Registered: 11-2005 Posted From: 65.138.63.139 Rating: N/A |
Duane, That is an alternator regulator. The original 4104 generator regulator was at least twice as big and had two very large lugs where two battery cables attached. | ||
| RJ Long (Rjlong)
Registered Member Username: Rjlong Post Number: 1147 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 67.181.163.170 Rating: N/A |
Duane - In addition to what Gus said, that regulator is also a solid-state unit. IIRC, you can adjust the charging voltage by turning the potentiometer located under the green plug in the center of the cover. Procedure is outlined in either the shop manual or the shop manual supplement. Fast Fred likes to set it on the low side of the acceptable range, says it's less prone to boiling the batteries on a long run. FWIW & HTH. . .  | ||
| Duane Bratvold (Connieandduane)
Registered Member Username: Connieandduane Post Number: 26 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 205.242.83.12 Rating: N/A |
RJ, Any Idea of where to get a replacement? Or to get this rebuilt? This one has some pretty strange repairs on the inside. It is working now, but not sure how long. ( no pun intended) | ||
| Glenn Williams (Glenn)
Registered Member Username: Glenn Post Number: 22 Registered: 6-2006 Posted From: 207.179.92.18 Rating: N/A |
It looks like the same one that I have in my 4905. Luke at US Coach ( 1-888-262-2434) was able to sell me replacement internals for a very resonable amount compared to a local supplier. |
