| Author |
Message |
tony (63.178.72.4)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 07, 2002 - 7:56 pm: | |
I have a 59' 4104 that was used in Vermont.
I have several places on the body that have
pin holes and white powder corrosion. I assume
this is from road salt.
Should I treat this with something to stop the reaction. Can I repair it without replacing
the sheetmetal?
thanks
Tony |
Jayjay (207.30.115.31)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 07, 2002 - 10:44 pm: | |
Finding salt corrosion is like finding a cockroach in the kitchen. You just know that there are (is) a whole bunch more. Try light sandblasting (corncobs, walnut hulls etc.) or phosphoric acid etching solution, with a liberal application of a stainless steel wire brush, then use a chromic acid conversion coating to help slow the advance of this insipid problem. Check with you local auto parts place or paint store for the chemicals. One of the real problems is the corrosion in faying surfaces that you can neither see. nor get to without de-riveting the joints. Too bad, good luck, and Cheers...JJ |
Oaepalmer (Oaepalmer) (208.164.96.119)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 07, 2002 - 11:35 pm: | |
OK I am going to draw some fire on this one, if only to draw others into the discussion.
IF the pinholes are just that ...and located near the wheel wells or in other NONstructual areas, you have few choices for repair...I will give you the options I am aware of.
First you have to stop the rot, in aluminum pinholes this can be as easy as drilling the hole bigger, the important thing is to remove ALL the white powery substance.
Now you need to fill that hole....
you can:
"heli-arc" weld it...the best solution....
remove the panel...the hardest solution...
or you can use a filler, epoxy with aluminum powder.
There is a product called "aluminum putty" that will serve the purpose, and be relatively "invisible" beyond 8ft. a whole lot less visible than say a rivet head!
Applying the single part products is as simple as sticking the end of the tube up to the hole a squirtin a shot in ...enough to make a head on the back side to secure the patch in place..( BTW that are also needs to be as clean as possible)
I have maybe a dozen pinholes in the fron of both rear wheel wells, all under 1/16th in. in dia. and unless someone has a better solution or product for the purpose, I plan on using the single part putty. |
FAST FRED (209.26.87.50)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, February 09, 2002 - 5:32 am: | |
MY coach came from the North East , so one of me first tasks was to wash the body as best I could.
I used a product called Chlor*rid , used in the offshore oil industry to remove salt spray , before painting.
Its non toxic and bio de gradeable .
Loaded up the power wash and did everything under the coach , and all the bay insides.
With the help of a damp rainy weekend I was able to keep the surfaces wet for over 50 hours.
The mfg says its fast acting , but there could be a difference between how much salt there is from 10 years in NYC and how much sticks on old paint.
Its cheap enough ,
Phone 480-821-0039
I let the baby dry and followed the chlorrid with Boeing preserving oil,
inside and out on the underbody.
THATS ! pretty expensive , but I figgure if the stuff wont dissolve , and protects a $50,000,000 Boeing it should work just dandy for my big hunk of monocoque alluminum too.
There is also a marine product called Salt Away , that is used to clean plastic boats, that should be at your local boat store.
FAST FRED |
|