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Syl Szucsko (Syl)
Registered Member Username: Syl
Post Number: 4 Registered: 6-2006 Posted From: 74.36.38.59
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, May 18, 2007 - 4:52 pm: | |
Last summer I made a trip to London Ontario Canada.I found I had 3 broken wheel studs on my left front wheel.I replaced them (very high $$ studs seems if it is on an old bus u pay ).I hand torqued them and made the trip from AZ .When I got back to AZ 3 mons later I had another broken stud and it was one of the new ones replaced . Any ideas why, has anybody had this problem. Thanks in advance. I am making the same trip end of next week. |
Jack Conrad (Jackconrad)
Registered Member Username: Jackconrad
Post Number: 574 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 76.1.180.218
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, May 18, 2007 - 7:22 pm: | |
I would check the wheel very closely for any cracks. Not sure if that could cause the problem, but I can't think of anything else, since you said wall were hand torqued. |
Syl Szucsko (Syl)
Registered Member Username: Syl
Post Number: 5 Registered: 6-2006 Posted From: 74.36.38.59
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, May 18, 2007 - 8:10 pm: | |
Hi Jack. I had aluminum wheels first and then switched to new steel in Okey City the year before .thats another story |
George M. Todd (George_mc6)
Registered Member Username: George_mc6
Post Number: 145 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 207.231.80.150
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, May 18, 2007 - 10:08 pm: | |
There is advice given by new trailer companies, among others to re-check lug nuts after 50 miles the first time, and every 300 or so miles thereafter, for the first thousand miles or so. Broken studs indicate loose nuts, period. We don't know exactly what your wheel change scenario was, or the thickness difference between steels and alumies, all of which could have caused your problem. Were they tightened gently at first, top, then bottom, then left side, and right side? Then tighten the four others gently, then torque all the nuts up to their rated torque in roughly the same pattern. Tightening the first nut too hard can mis-align the wheel on the hub, causing your problem. George |
joe padberg (Joemc7ab)
Registered Member Username: Joemc7ab
Post Number: 110 Registered: 6-2004 Posted From: 66.38.159.33
Rating: Votes: 1 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, May 19, 2007 - 1:21 am: | |
To add to Georges comment, was the wheel not fully clear from the ground during installation ? Do you use nuts that are sealed at one end, and you likely have longer studs since you used aluminum wheels and have now run out of travel ? Joe. |
larry currier (Larryc)
Registered Member Username: Larryc
Post Number: 101 Registered: 2-2007 Posted From: 205.188.116.13
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, May 19, 2007 - 2:36 am: | |
Broken studs are rare. The usual senario I have with broken studs relates to a poor air gun. If the tire man can't get the wheel loose he hits the studs with a big hammer. This stretches the stud and not to far down the road they break. If you put in new studs, how did you draw them into the hub? They should be pounded in from the back and not drawn in with the baddest IngersolRand money can buy. (Thats how I do them anyway) |
Mark Renner (Boomer)
Registered Member Username: Boomer
Post Number: 69 Registered: 11-2006 Posted From: 12.180.53.193
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, May 19, 2007 - 2:40 pm: | |
We went through a rash of broken front studs on MC-8's and '9's years ago. We solved the problem by installing the flanged lug nuts, either 5 to a wheel (every other stud) or all 10. The MCI part numbers are: 15G-2-3 (LH) and 15G-2-2 (RH). These nuts are for STEEL wheels only. This will solve your problem as long as your studs are installed correctly and the lug nuts are torqued to around 500 ft lbs. Larry in the above post is correct on the stud installation. Never install by pulling them in with an air gun. Drive them in with a brass punch or similar. We OK'd drivers to bring the coach in to the shop with one broken front stud, but never more than that. If you drove it with 3 broken studs, you are extremely lucky that you didn't have a big let down. Hope this helps. |
larry currier (Larryc)
Registered Member Username: Larryc
Post Number: 103 Registered: 2-2007 Posted From: 64.12.116.203
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, May 20, 2007 - 1:58 am: | |
George has a good point about installation. Most tire shops just bang em out. You should seat all the nuts by hand and then torque them by the book. I wonder how many counterfit studs are on the market? Buy them from a reputable supplier and buy a brand name product that says made in USA if there is such a thing. My local Peterbilt dealer handles Euclid studs and wheel hardware and they have worked OK for me. If you have stud pilot and you switched from alum to steel, you must be careful not to bottom out the inner on the stud on the drivers. Hard to beat Boomers advice and part numbers for your new wheels. If your studs just broke I'd take a good look at the wheels and hubs and make sure there is not a mismatch of some kind. |
Syl Szucsko (Syl)
Registered Member Username: Syl
Post Number: 6 Registered: 6-2006 Posted From: 74.36.38.59
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, May 20, 2007 - 11:23 am: | |
My studs are pulled thru from outside of hub inward and has a retaining nut that holds them in . the studs are breaking on the outside wheel part . So pulling it in with impact has no effect on where it is breaking. I did use brass drift on installing the studs. I looked to see where they were made ( because I had to buy 10 at a time) Tiawan |
JR Lynch (Njt5047)
Registered Member Username: Njt5047
Post Number: 157 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 69.132.237.9
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, May 20, 2007 - 8:30 pm: | |
I'm late to this discussion, but is it possible that your original alloy wheels were of a hub piloted design? You may have the wrong lugnuts and stud assembly for the application. MCI uses two distinctly different wheel mount styles. Are you familiar with the difference between stud and hub piloted wheels? Don't mean to insult...?? If stud piloted, in some situations special lugnuts were used on MCI steer axles. They were flanged with an acorn for stud piloted wheel design. The flanged acorns were used in an alternating pattern with the standard acorn nuts. I have no idea if this would apply to your situation...however, something is badly wrong. Breaking studs, even if all the rules are broken, is rare. If the alloy wheels had a "flat" lug mount area, and your new steel wheels have a "chamfer" in the lugnut hole, that would be a problem. JR |