Author |
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Ben B. Wolff (Ben_mc7)
Registered Member Username: Ben_mc7
Post Number: 2 Registered: 4-2007 Posted From: 24.26.1.128
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, May 27, 2007 - 4:05 pm: | |
Does anyone here recall what adhesives are available (and tested good/reliable) for the installation of the exterior skin for a bus. A couple of years ago at the Arcadia get-together there was a beautiful red (skyliner) bus there that had new stainless steel that was installed in this way. Who supplies this stuff and has anyone had any experience with it?? |
Jack Conrad (Jackconrad)
Registered Member Username: Jackconrad
Post Number: 583 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 76.1.180.218
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, May 27, 2007 - 5:09 pm: | |
That was Pat McNeil's beautiful Scenicruiser. Pat used SikaFlex to attach all those mirror finish stainless steel panels. International Bus & Parts in Apopka, FL sells SikaFlex. Perhaps others can chime in with some other sources. Jack |
Pete/RTS Daytona (Pete_rtsdaytona)
Registered Member Username: Pete_rtsdaytona
Post Number: 344 Registered: 1-2005 Posted From: 72.40.12.33
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, May 27, 2007 - 6:41 pm: | |
I have found the following in my GMC M/H files. Sikaflex makes many different sealants and adhesives. Most sealants are also adhesives but you will want to use the less strong ones for sealing around windows and to fill small gaps in panels. Construction grades: Sikaflex 201 is a general purpose flexible low viscosity (runs easily until cured) sealant. This should be good for running down into cracks. Sikaflex 221 is a bit stronger sealant/adhesive. Adheres to steel, fiberglass, wood. aluminum and other materials. Joints sealants: Sikaflex 1A for small joints with possible expansion less than 25%. Sikaflex 15LM for larger joints with expansion of +100 to -50. Used to fill the gap around the GMC windshield weather stripping and the body and the gap around the side window rubber weatherstripping and the body. Marine grades: Sikaflex 291 is a typical sealant and for light bonding where adhesive strength is not required. Sikaflex 291LOT is almost as strong as 291 and slightly more flexible. It has a slower skin time to allow for longer working time. Good for general sealing, seams and for sealing through hull hardware. Sikaflex 292 is a high strength adhesive and sealant and is really not appropriate for the motorhome unless you are reattaching panels. It can replace rivets, screws, welds and other mechanical fasteners in repairs. Pete RTS/Daytona |
Ed Jewett (Kristinsgrandpa)
Registered Member Username: Kristinsgrandpa
Post Number: 316 Registered: 2-2003 Posted From: 64.24.209.1
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, May 27, 2007 - 9:59 pm: | |
Sikaflex adhesive products have an expiration date. Where ever you buy, make sure to tell them you want a fresh tube unless you are going to use it right away. I bought some from Austin Hardware and the expiration date was only 2 weeks away. It will keep longer (how much I don't know) if you refrigerate it, but it should be warmed to room temperature before using. Ed |
Arthur J Griffith (Arthurseagle)
Registered Member Username: Arthurseagle
Post Number: 28 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 72.236.102.215
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, May 28, 2007 - 2:10 pm: | |
Patrick used Sikaflex 252 to adhere all of the panels on his Scenicruser. I have also used the Sikaflex to put my Eagle siding and window panels on. I LOVE IT. My window panels ( 13' 6") are totally glued on. No rivets, no welds, no screws. I eliminated almost all of the the rivets on my bus. It is critical to follow the directions to the T. Sikaflex 252 also requires a primer 210T. I sugest the purchase of a air powerd caulking gun. I got mine at Northern Tool and works great and the price is good. If you are working in a real cold shop I have found that keeping the sika tubes warm helps keep the caulk workable. Also try to avoid use on rainey days because the working time will be shorter. (moisture cured) I also purchased my Sikaflex from I B P in Apopka. They sell a lot so the stock should be fresh. This stuff realy works. It would probably take a back ho to remove the metal on my bus. Good Luck ARTHUR |
Ben B. Wolff (Ben_mc7)
Registered Member Username: Ben_mc7
Post Number: 3 Registered: 4-2007 Posted From: 24.26.1.128
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, May 28, 2007 - 3:34 pm: | |
I am trying to imagine what the cure time would be for the installation of panels with the adhesive. Arthur, did you have to install clamps for it to cure? Can you apply it, install the panel and move it some to get proper placement before it sets like concrete? I am sure that IBP can answer some of this, but they are selling it and it would be nice to hear from someone that is using it and eliminate sales BS. |
R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member Username: Chuckllb
Post Number: 144 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 4.240.144.78
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, May 28, 2007 - 11:38 pm: | |
Contact Steve Padgett at SikaUSA....He has all the answers, experience and helpful literature you will need. BT,DT. Lotsa distributors...and as mentioned above, use stock that is not outdated. Crucial IMHO. Also, check the archives...much there. FWIW RCB '64 Crown Supercoach (HWC) |
Arthur J Griffith (Arthurseagle)
Registered Member Username: Arthurseagle
Post Number: 29 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 72.236.102.149
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, June 04, 2007 - 4:56 pm: | |
BEN: Sorry I did not respond to your question sooner. Had to go to my grandsons graduation in S Fla. The Sikaflex is a moisture cured product. If you are in a high humid area, your working time will be less. In a dry climate,longer. Here in North Carolina Mts. we average 50-70 %. My average working time was 30 to 45 min. The Sikaflex does not cure to be hard. It cures to firm rubber like consisty which is what makes it so desirable. It will allow your metal to expand and contract with temprature changes which will eliminate a lot of the wrinkles that you have when you pin it down. You do not want to clamp it down to hard, that will squeeze out to much of the sika. I used small washers and thin strips of alum. to create an even spacing between the framing an the outside skin leaving an even layer of Sika underneath. I will need support and clamping for a while until it cures, especially if you are working with larger panels. But you want to place your clamps only where you have a washer or alum. shin underneath. ARTHUR-828-479-4771 |