| Author | Message | ||
| Christopher Goodwin (Cgoodwin)
Registered Member Username: Cgoodwin Post Number: 75 Registered: 10-2005 Posted From: 71.212.69.130 Rating: |
I am about to install 2 carrier AirV low profile AC units on my Neoplan Cityliner, the units require a 14x14" hole in the roof and I have two roof top escape hatches / ventilators which are 18x18". My idea is to make a metal replacement hatch and cut a 14x14 hole in the center, place it on top the existing hatch coaming with a foam sealant strip and bolt it down, then bolt the AC unit to it using the bolts supplied. IF all goes well I should be able to avoid cutting into my bus at all. I am hoping to connect the front unti to the back using a waterproof couduit, then another section to the rear cap and down through the disfunctional road AC area to the engine bay and forward in the chase to the bays for Generator power. Anyone done anything like this? Any suggestions? | ||
| Gordon Hummel (Gordon)
Registered Member Username: Gordon Post Number: 9 Registered: 9-2004 Posted From: 64.12.116.203 Rating: N/A |
I emailed you a link to my album that shows how I mounted my roof airs. Only one is in an old hatch area. I covered the roof where the old hatch was & then built the framework as shown in the pictures. 3 ac in all & all in the 2 common ducts. The raised/lowered roof provides substancial room for insulation & the ducts. Gordon | ||
| Nick Badame Refrigeration Co. (Dnick85)
Registered Member Username: Dnick85 Post Number: 151 Registered: 2-2006 Posted From: 75.199.226.237 Rating: N/A |
Hi Christopher, Is there any way to leave one escape hatch in tact for emergency use? Hope you would never need it but, it's a thought! How high is that Cityliner gonna be with roof boxes? Good Luck Nick- | ||
| John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9 Post Number: 445 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 66.217.106.178 Rating: N/A |
Re: "make a metal replacement hatch and cut a 14x14 hole in the center, place it on top the existing hatch coaming with a foam sealant strip and bolt it down, then bolt the AC unit to it using the bolts supplied. " You'll find that it's very impractical to do it that way. The AC units must sit flat and be supported at the ends/sides. The amount of height of the hatch door raises the AC unit much too high and does not allow for proper support at the ends and sides. If nothing else, the vibration will drive you sane. The inside dimensions will also be a problem, since the bolts, ducting, etc were not designed for that great of depth. You'll have a 100% easier time of it, simply framing the present openings, and covering them with heavy gauge aluminum. Using butyl and self tapping screws, is also the easiest way to do it. (and screws make future resealing easier) | ||
| Christopher Goodwin (Cgoodwin)
Registered Member Username: Cgoodwin Post Number: 81 Registered: 10-2005 Posted From: 71.212.66.98 Rating: N/A |
Nick, every other window opens 3'x6' so I am not that worried about escape, besides, if this baby goes down I am going with her. John, I have a complete metal shop and can easily make braces, I spoke to Carrier today and they agreed that the rear of the units must be supported. I may trim down the coaming to roof level, I may build supports, not sure yet. I get my bus "Stone Soup" back in the Am from having the jakes repaired and a full check over (11 days to the first family trip in the bus, don't need a breakdown) and I will evaluate the situation then, I have decided to go with running the wiring on the roof in waterproff conduit though. | ||
| John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9 Post Number: 446 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 66.217.107.110 Rating: N/A |
Chris - Re: "I have decided to go with running the wiring on the roof in waterproff conduit though." Most all of the roof AC units I've seen, have access to the unit's wiring inside the housing... that is... accessible from -inside- the vehicle. Routing through roof-top conduits will add another engineering twist (not that there's anything wrong with that), and may make future service a bit more complex..... I mounted mine on the roof, through the existing hatch opining. The 2" depth was a perfect fit for the unit's interior hardware. I had planned to use wiremold inside, to route the interior wiring, since it easily conforms to the bends of the bus.. and... since it'd be easier to make future changes, or to add additional wiring... I gave thought to using exterior conduits, but abandoned it when I realized the additional problems it would present. Let's face it, the less holes you puncture through the very rain vulnerable roof, the less chances of finding puddles when you don't own a dog, or have an old guy like me wandering around. There's no right or wrong... just easy or difficult. (you'll do well either way!) | ||
| Christopher Goodwin (Cgoodwin)
Registered Member Username: Cgoodwin Post Number: 82 Registered: 10-2005 Posted From: 71.212.87.83 Rating: N/A |
The cityliner has a large cap on the rear which housed the road ac, this cap is nearly 12" higher than the rest of the roof and is fiberglass. My intention is to route the conduit back and through this cowling where there is a clean drop to the top of the engine bay and several no longer used passages through to the engine bay. No holes in the roof will be required. I have gone to lengths to keep my interior clean and really do not want to tear up my roof to run wiring. You can see what I mean here http://www.frybrid.com/images/room%20view.jpg | ||
| Randy Davidson (Rdavidson)
Registered Member Username: Rdavidson Post Number: 4 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 69.19.14.31 Rating: N/A |
Be mindful that 14"x14" standard opening for a roof air may NOT be exactly 14 by 14 inches. Read the instructions carefully. Do they want an opening that is 14.25"x14.25" really? Mine did and that presented some issues when pulling the long bolts down from above in the corners. Read the fine print on your units' instructions for the rough opening size. | ||
| Christopher Goodwin (Cgoodwin)
Registered Member Username: Cgoodwin Post Number: 84 Registered: 10-2005 Posted From: 71.212.87.83 Rating: N/A |
My hatches are 23x23 so I have decided to nount through the hatches and make a cover plate for the interior side, the 1 3/8" rise above the roof will help he AC units clear the vents just aft of the hatches and I will make a riser to support the AC unit. | ||
| Chris Peters (Chris_85_rts)
Registered Member Username: Chris_85_rts Post Number: 38 Registered: 11-2006 Posted From: 68.205.99.121 Rating: N/A |
I did exactly this on my RTS. My hatch has a lip that extends up 1 inch. I framed in the opening using PT 2x4's bolted to the framing. I capped it off with a sheet of galvanized to cover the 3" between the 14x14 opening the the hatch perimeter. My Carrier AC is not supported in the rear, hasn't been for a few years now, and no problem with leaks or vibration. Then again, the roof structure of the RTS is very stout. The electrical connections by default are on the interior panel, so running it exterior will be non standard. As for the interior, since I framed with wood, I was able to just finish my ceiling paneling up the opening with no additional work. (Message edited by chris 85 rts on July 21, 2007) | ||
| John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9 Post Number: 448 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 66.217.106.208 Rating: N/A |
Chris G - Take note of Randy's comment! 14-1/4" square -is- the opening size requirements for most all roof air units. You'll undoubtedly have to do some modifications to the unit's interior panel, and the manner it's usually held to it's main unit.... but if you're up to it, nuttin's impossible; It's just a matter of "easy" and/or "difficult". I habitually opt for the more conforming: "easy", but even than, it doesn't always equate to "success". It really only depends on the amount of beer consumed fore, aft, and during construction. ("oh wait..... it's upside-down") You'll do fine - "Don't worry; be happy". | ||
| Christopher Goodwin (Cgoodwin)
Registered Member Username: Cgoodwin Post Number: 85 Registered: 10-2005 Posted From: 71.212.82.32 Rating: N/A |
Got the front unit mounted today, anything but easy. Just aft of the hatch hole are two vent cowls, the hatch rim is 1 3/8" above the roof but I needed an additional 2" to get the unit to clear the cowls. After playing with the original hatch for some time I dropped it and made a hatch from 2"x6" glues and screwed to 3/4" ply, I rounded the corners and skinned it is .080 aluminum, tiged the joins and cut out the center to 14x14. Used the original hatch gasket but found that the supplied bolts were too short and that the interior plate would not work either as the hatch hole was 23x23. I ended up mounting angle iron to the front and back using the holes which had originally held the hatch hinges, then another set of angles front to back with holes for the bolts from the unit to suck it down. Finished it all up just 7 hours into what I had thought would be a 3 hour project... Back on the roof today for the rear unit.... |
