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M&M (Busnut_pd4106)
Registered Member
Username: Busnut_pd4106
Post Number: 117
Registered: 11-2004
Posted From: 67.34.231.136
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, July 21, 2007 - 4:55 pm: | |
I searched the archives but found nothing dealing specifically with replacing the floorboard in the cockpit. The floorboard in our 4106's cockpit is about to cave in, due to water damage. I am concern with the clutch, shifting, steering and other mechanism hanging from the floorboard. At first it appears to be a simple task. But I am afraid I might be biting off more than I can chew. Please share your experience or comments. Thanks! |
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
Registered Member
Username: Gusc
Post Number: 402
Registered: 11-2005
Posted From: 4.231.133.9
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, July 21, 2007 - 6:38 pm: | |
The actual floorboard replacement is not so bad once everything is detached. You just make a copy of the old board on a new one and bolt it back down. Unfortunately, that is the easy part.
That area is what I call the black hole. There are numerous things attached to the floorboard and it is a nightmare of air lines, links, pivots and other things.
If you're very good at mechanical devices you will be ok, but if you are a beginner you will need experienced help.
Make photos of everything you detach and while you are there replace all the shackles and pins in the trans and clutch linkage because they are just about impossible to access when assembled.
Steering will be the easiest of all because it is at the front of the floorboard, I'm not even sure you will have to remove it, but it you do it comes apart in short sections and you won't have to remove the complete steering system.
It may sound as if I've spent some time down there and I have, it was not fun, but will be much easier with the floorboard out once everything is detached from it.
Rusted bolts and nuts will be one of your major headaches. These oldtimers are hard to take apart, much easier to reassemble.
(Message edited by gusc on July 22, 2007) |
John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member
Username: John_mc9
Post Number: 450
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 66.217.106.208
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, July 22, 2007 - 12:48 am: | |
Gus -
Do you know if this a common problem for 4106's, and would
the 4104's suffer from the same problem?
It certainly sounds like it should be added to a list of things
to check for, prior to buying any bus! |
george bruton (Tazman632000)
Registered Member
Username: Tazman632000
Post Number: 24
Registered: 2-2007
Posted From: 65.184.183.4
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, July 22, 2007 - 10:23 am: | |
my 4106 was the same way the wood was in ok to poor shape bus it was sagging a few inches. i went over the top of it with 5/8 plywood and through bolted it with 1/4 inch bolts. i decided to go that route rather than try to remove all the stuff attached to the floor. its a lot stronger now. with only a slight bow still. |
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
Registered Member
Username: Gusc
Post Number: 404
Registered: 11-2005
Posted From: 4.231.129.176
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, July 22, 2007 - 3:09 pm: | |
John,
Since the 4104 and 4106 chassis are very much the same I would stick my neck out and say there is no difference in that area.
The main differences are the engine type and layout and the AC comp drive.
This is the first time I've heard of this section of the floorboard collapsing but it could easily happen from sitting long periods with window/windshield leaks.
My floorboards are completely overlaid with 1/2" plywood, except for the driver's section, for which I am thankful because you just can't expect plywood to last 53 years without some rotting out.
Needless to say I like George's solution best. It might interfere with clutch adjustments but you can work around that if necessary by making a cutout around the clutch pedal when it is fully depressed. No problem if it is an AT.
The old floorboard may have to be cut out at the horn and HL switches so they can be raised to the new floor level, but George will know about that. |
David Evans (Dmd)
Registered Member
Username: Dmd
Post Number: 180
Registered: 10-2004
Posted From: 71.125.61.24
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, July 22, 2007 - 6:59 pm: | |
our GM had rot here also. Aluminum plate over new plywood for the repair.It started at the edge near the hi beam switches and had migrated back around the seat bolts. |
M&M (Busnut_pd4106)
Registered Member
Username: Busnut_pd4106
Post Number: 118
Registered: 11-2004
Posted From: 67.34.232.210
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, July 23, 2007 - 9:08 pm: | |
Thanks for the comments and suggestions. The water did enter through the driver side window, and as David mentioned the damage started at the edge near the high beam switch. I should have replaced that glass long ago.
I feel this is a job left to the professionals. Another thought was of positioning some type of metal supports underneath the the original floor, then install the new floor above the old, as suggested, I do like the Aluminum plate idea. |
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
Registered Member
Username: Gusc
Post Number: 405
Registered: 11-2005
Posted From: 63.97.117.38
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, July 23, 2007 - 11:56 pm: | |
There are a couple of pretty strong steel beams lying fore and aft under the driver's floorboard. If you have anything solid to attach these to they will pretty much hold up the rest.
They support most of the pivots for the clutch and original parking brake linkage. |