| Author |
Message |
Simon Ayriss (Design_dog)
Registered Member
Username: Design_dog
Post Number: 38
Registered: 3-2007
Posted From: 69.108.113.43
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 13, 2007 - 2:33 am: | |
My bus seems to have never ending layers of old paint jobs and was wondering if there is something simple or good that would strip or cut through them. I tried one paint stripping product and it only ruffled up the first layer and I went through a nearly whole can on a small part of the bus.
I read the aircraft type stripper might work?
The other thing is since I have some much area, it would be great if there was something simple that came in a gallon container would work because I could use up a lot getting the paint off.
If there is a product wondering what store I can get it from on the West Coast?
Also, is there a common store that sells something like such a thing as a "roll-on" primer or paint?
I don't want to paint my bus just get rid of the layers of old paint and prime it, although anythings better than my old thick paint layer. The last paint job the old dear had was not so good. I thought about getting a top load sand blaster but seems even that might take a while to cut through it. |
Paul Lawry (Dreamscape)
Registered Member
Username: Dreamscape
Post Number: 91
Registered: 5-2007
Posted From: 70.103.23.130
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 13, 2007 - 6:58 am: | |
This has some tips that might help.
http://users.cwnet.com/thall/fredhobe4.htm
Good Luck,
Paul |
Hobie (Hobie)
Registered Member
Username: Hobie
Post Number: 1
Registered: 8-2007
Posted From: 76.176.191.171
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 13, 2007 - 10:56 am: | |
An auto body shop supplier will have the large 5 gal cans of stripper.
It may take a couple of applications to remove many layers of paint. It all depends on how well the prior layers were prepped and the type of paint. Apply it thick!
The pressure washer will make things easy but be careful as you can warp the metal. Really.
Strippers work by creating a vapor barrier when applied. The directions say to apply in one direction only. This is best as if you re-brush the area you break this vapor film and it is not as effective.
Another trick is to use masking tape over door seams, etc. This keeps the stripper from dripping inside and making a mess and another area to be repainted. Then use sandpaper to remove this small strip of paint later.
It is a big job but well worth it. The last thing you want to see is your final paint job start lifting (wrinkling) the old paint. Now that is a nightmare!
Also, put some tarp or paper under the area you are working to prevent the stripper/paint from staining your driveway, etc. |
Ed Jewett (Kristinsgrandpa)
Registered Member
Username: Kristinsgrandpa
Post Number: 338
Registered: 2-2003
Posted From: 64.24.214.212
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 13, 2007 - 11:35 am: | |
Most paint strippers will eat aluminum, so it is advisable to use aircraft stripper. Stripper is also hard to remove around rivet heads, where if left on, will mess up the new paint.
It also eats skin.
A lot of people suggest soda blasting.
Ed |
Patrick levenson (Zubzub)
Registered Member
Username: Zubzub
Post Number: 9
Registered: 5-2007
Posted From: 70.55.158.89
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 13, 2007 - 2:04 pm: | |
I heard a guy say that brake fluid was the way to go with aluminum, no idea if it works, but sure would be gentle on the metal. patrick |
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
Registered Member
Username: Gusc
Post Number: 441
Registered: 11-2005
Posted From: 63.97.117.49
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 13, 2007 - 5:09 pm: | |
Paint stripper usually only takes off one layer at a time. It is doubly hard to use on vertical surfaces because it needs to sit a while to do a good job.
The big problem with liquid stripper is it gets into every crack or joint, including rivets as already said, and is impossible to completely remove. The one Al airplane I had painted never did stop corroding at the skin joints.
I don't recommend brake fluid either, you will never get it all out and it will forever bubble the new paint.
I wouldn't strip it down to bare metal either if you find one coat that is well bonded. Bare Al corrodes very badly and is hard to prime. Epoxy primer is best. Just scuff up the well bonded coat and paint over it, you'll be glad you did. |
marvin pack (Gomer)
Registered Member
Username: Gomer
Post Number: 75
Registered: 3-2007
Posted From: 76.4.136.26
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 13, 2007 - 6:55 pm: | |
STOP THE PRESSES:::: go to wally world and get "ole dads" paint stripper. I bought AIRCRAFT PROFESSIONAL stripper and that was junk compared to "OLE DADS" it was half the price and would bring about 2-3 coats at a time. Don't you guys remember how smart DAD was when we got older? LOL |
Kevin Black (Kblackav8or)
Registered Member
Username: Kblackav8or
Post Number: 72
Registered: 8-2005
Posted From: 24.152.174.198
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, August 16, 2007 - 12:20 am: | |
Don't use anything not compatible with aluminum or you will be sorry. Causes embrittlement among other things. Believe it or not one of the fastest and safest (though noisy and messy) is an electric DA sander and 80 grit self sticking pads. You can use an air one if you have a big compressor. Milwaukee makes them among others. Leaves the surface ready for paint and won't hurt anything. Buy the sanding disks from a auto body supply shop by the roll. It will work as fast as any stripper and you can just wipe it down for your first round of etching primer. Low risk and effective. |