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Simon Ayriss (Design_dog)
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Username: Design_dog

Post Number: 42
Registered: 3-2007
Posted From: 69.227.68.21

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Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2007 - 2:45 pm:   

I kinda looked around the archives already. Anyway, but now since I have some Sears shop air, I was wondering if someone could give me some caveman instructions on how I might be able to 'air up' the bus on external air so I can check my air system.
Keep in mind I don't have a MCI manual yet.
I notice right behind the blower belt is a female 1/4" inlet. Not sure if that might be for out airtools or in external.
Also. Does anyone know what the basic requirement are or how much it matters? Is 90psi enough?
Also. Read in an article from FF about being able to air up the bus externally with a compressor, then starting the bus, then taking off, not having to wait for engine/compressor air up.
Does anyone or has anyone done this at all or before?
Any other tips on airing up for start or troubleshooting (I know soap and water spraygun.)
My main issue concern right now is airing up for troubleshooting, but if I could air up for start occasionally, that would be awesome.

As always..., Thanks in advance for all the help!
Jack Conrad (Jackconrad)
Registered Member
Username: Jackconrad

Post Number: 616
Registered: 12-2000
Posted From: 76.1.180.218

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Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2007 - 7:05 pm:   

There is an air line coming from the compressor to the "ping" tank. I removed the air line from the top of the ping tank, installed a tee and added a female air quick connect fitting. I then took a 1/4 turn brass ball valve and added a male air quick connect to each end of the ball valve. This allows me to connect my shop air hose to the bus at the ping tank. By connecting here, the shop air goes through the bus air drier before going into the rest of the bus air system. Jack
Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
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Username: Buswarrior

Post Number: 1064
Registered: 12-2000
Posted From: 74.12.73.141

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Posted on Monday, September 03, 2007 - 2:21 am:   

Hello Simon

Inside the side engine access on the curb side, against the inside wheel well for the tag wheel, there should be some air connections.

There will be a sticker Drain Daily, add your fittings there, as described by Jack, if the previous owner has not already done this.

90 lbs of air is quite suitable for trouble shooting leaks.

Depending on whether I am in a campground with civilians, or at a busnut rally with fellow "enthusiasts", will dictate whether I air the coach up with an electric compressor, or fire up the engine and build air pressure with the mosquito fogger.

Time of day for departure also figures prominantly in the choice...

happy coaching!
buswarrior
George M. Todd (George_mc6)
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Username: George_mc6

Post Number: 261
Registered: 8-2006
Posted From: 207.231.81.129

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Posted on Monday, September 03, 2007 - 12:43 pm:   

Simon,
The above instructions are correct, and a high concentration of dish soap in water produces much better bubbles than window cleaner.
But, DO NOT GO UNDER AN AIR RIDE BUS WITHOUT PROPERLY BLOCKING IT AT THE JACKING POINTS!
Don't get between the tires and the fenders either! We want you around to enjoy the hobby.
George
Jim G. - RTS (Jimgohio)
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Username: Jimgohio

Post Number: 11
Registered: 4-2001
Posted From: 205.158.100.241

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Posted on Saturday, September 08, 2007 - 12:27 am:   

Our bus has a fitting to hook up an air hose back by the engine. This is similar to what Jack mentioned, but ours is a male quick connect fitting into a brass valve. Ours needs no unusual airline configuration to work.
Jim G. - 1979 RTS-II 40' X 96"

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