| Author | Message | ||
| Jim Schrecengost (Schrec)
Registered Member Username: Schrec Post Number: 46 Registered: 2-2007 Posted From: 24.2.127.94 Rating: N/A |
Could someone tell me if this would work. 12V DC, 220/240V AC, 5000/10000 Watt Power Inverter With BUILT-IN CHARGER, 50Amp Output & WIRELESS Remote Item number: 120162630186 I saw it on the eplace. I am running 50 amp shore or Gen into an IOTA 50 transfer switch. NOw the 50 amp from those is 220 right??? So i would need the 220 version of this inverter, if I am thinking correctly. Also if I am reading this correctly this has a built in tranfer switch so I could hardwire directly to the 50 amp panel that I have and not need to get another transfer switch. Anyway....really confused and wouldlike everyones help JIm Thanks for your thought on this Jim | ||
| Doyle Gaither (Texasborderdude)
Registered Member Username: Texasborderdude Post Number: 80 Registered: 3-2007 Posted From: 66.188.231.49 Rating: N/A |
I'll throw this out and be prepared to be corrected, but it is my understanding that a 50 amp circuit is comprised of 4 wires. There are 2 "hot" wires either of which will provide the hot leg of a 110v 30 amp circuit. The other 2 wires in the 50 am circuit are a "neutral" and a ground. The "neutral" runs back to the power source and essentially a ground wire as well. The ground wire (the 4th wire in this set) is grounded to the circuit breaker, or distribution panel where the 50 amp circuit connects. Since you will probably not use 220 current in your coach, one of the "legs" of the 50 amp will power your inverter/charger. I also belive that in most RV applications that 220 is "split" into separate circuits in your main distribution panel. Most RV's will operate on 30 amp (this permits up to 2-15 amp breakers for heavy loads such as a/c) To run 3 a/c units (3 x 15 amp) you'll need a 50 amp connection with 1 110v. leg supporting 2-15 amp circuits and 1 110v. leg 1-15 amp circuit. Chime in expert and correct me where I'm wrong. ps. Jim, I just saw the item on the eplace; it sez this is a 220/240v unit ONLY... meaning you would not be able to charge your house batteries UNLESS you have full 50amp service; plus you'd probably have to run a separate 220 service for the inverter/charger. dg (Message edited by TexasBorderDude on September 21, 2007) | ||
| Jack Conrad (Jackconrad)
Registered Member Username: Jackconrad Post Number: 647 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 76.1.180.218 Rating: N/A |
Here is how we wired our coach. 50 amp (240 volt)shore line to a 50 amp transfer switch (4 wires Red & Black=hot, white=neutral, and green=ground. From Generator (120 volt) to the same 50 amp transfer switch 3 wires (back=hot, white=neutral, and green=ground. At the transfer switch there are a red and black terminal for the generator. We connected the black to the black and a jumper from the black to the red. From the transfer switch to the MAIN load center 4 wires Red & Black are hot and connect to the 2 main "hot lugs in the load center, white connects to an ISOLATED neutral strip. Green connects to a ground strip that is electrically connected the the load center case. One 30 amp circuit breaker (120 volt) in this main load center (black)goes to the input of the (2500)Inverter/Charger, along with a neutral(white) & ground (green). The 3 wire output (120 volt)from the inverter (black=hot, white=neutral, green=ground)feeds a separate SUB PANEL load center. Black connects to one "hot" lug with a jumper to the other "hot" lug. Everything that runs off the inverter has a circuit breaker in this panel. Items that do not run off the inverter such as our AC's, water heater, & block heater run off breakers in the MAIN load center. Hope this helps, Just our way, YMMV Jack | ||
| Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)
Registered Member Username: Drivingmisslazy Post Number: 1988 Registered: 1-2001 Posted From: 75.108.72.199 Rating: N/A |
quote  There are 2 "hot" wires either of which will provide the hot leg of a 110v 30 amp circuit) Doyle, if you change the 30 to 50 in that statement then I think you are correct. I do know for a fact that a 50 amp circuit will provide two 50 amp, 120 volt feeds. Richard | ||
| Don Evans (Doninwa)
Registered Member Username: Doninwa Post Number: 81 Registered: 1-2007 Posted From: 65.61.96.82 Rating: N/A |
It would appear to be for the European market. It is 220v only and 50 HERTZ input and output. Not something you want here. Don 4107 | ||
| Jim Schrecengost (Schrec)
Registered Member Username: Schrec Post Number: 47 Registered: 2-2007 Posted From: 24.2.127.94 Rating: N/A |
Thanks all...... but if I would buy one of these, not this one. would a 220 work or should I stick with a 110. The 50 amp has two hots 1 ground and 1 nuetral same as what I am familiar with for a house. Jim | ||
| Jerry Liebler (Jerry_liebler)
Registered Member Username: Jerry_liebler Post Number: 279 Registered: 3-2005 Posted From: 67.141.38.149 Rating: N/A |
Jim, DON't BUY IT!! You need a 120 volt unit. 240 volt is not always available. Any outlet that you plug into that is 15,20, or 30 amp capable will only have 120 volts. Even some 50 amp outlets have only 120. Regards Jerry 4107 1120 | ||
| Don Evans (Doninwa)
Registered Member Username: Doninwa Post Number: 82 Registered: 1-2007 Posted From: 65.61.96.82 Rating: N/A |
The normal way is to use a 110 inverter with a split panel/panels. One side for the critical loads you want to run from the inverter, one with the non-critical loads like water heater, electric coach heat, more ACs and other high draw stuff. You would not want to run everything from an inverter unless you have a WHOLE BUNCH of batteries. Don 4107 | ||
| George M. Todd (George_mc6)
Registered Member Username: George_mc6 Post Number: 269 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 76.168.69.233 Rating: N/A |
Jerry is right! The US wiring on a 50 amp shore power circuit is properly described as 50A 120/240V, 60Hz. Don't let slang get you confused, it is easier to say 110 than 120, and 220 rather than 240, but after you buy the wrong thing, you will learn. 110 and 220 left North America when the changeover was made to 60Hz, before I was born. That shore line will provide two legs of 120v power, at 50 amps each, (line to neutral) or 50 amps of 240v, line to line. If you were using 20 amps of 240v, then you would have 60 amps of 120v (2X30) left. Make sense? Its cheap for a reason. George | ||
| Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)
Registered Member Username: Drivingmisslazy Post Number: 1989 Registered: 1-2001 Posted From: 75.108.72.199 Rating: N/A |
You must have a dual output voltage of 240/120 for use in this country. The European designed units do not have the neutral for the 120 volt output. And you definitely do not want a 50 hertz output device. as this unit is. Richard | ||
| James Stacy (Jimstacy)
Registered Member Username: Jimstacy Post Number: 105 Registered: 1-2001 Posted From: 75.41.25.167 Rating: N/A |
Many apppliances designed for the euro 50 hertz will run very hot when on 60 hertz (US standard) and vice versa. Internal clocks will not keep proper time, of course. BTW, I have run into RV 50 amp service that was not 240. They connected both "hot" wires to the same phase. They still rated each side at 50 amps and possibly they were. Unless you had a 240 volt appliance, you would never know the difference. Jim Stacy | ||
| Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean Post Number: 670 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 72.171.0.144 Rating: |
BTW, I have run into RV 50 amp service that was not 240. They connected both "hot" wires to the same phase. They still rated each side at 50 amps and possibly they were. Unless you had a 240 volt appliance, you would never know the difference. I don't doubt you've seen this, but, wow -- that's a fire waiting to happen. If I ever saw this in the field, I would immediately insist that it be fixed. If the campground refused to do so, I would send a letter, complete with photos, to the fire marshal, building inspector, fire chief, and any code enforcement in the jurisdiction. This is a deadly situation. I suspect most on here already know why. For the uninitiated: if you have a "50-amp" coach, you have three current-carrying wires in your shore wiring, likely all the way to the main panel, each of which is rated to carry 50 amps. If you plug into a properly wired 120/240-volt receptacle, and draw all 50 amps on both hot legs, the amount of current returned on the neutral will be zero. The most current that will ever return on the neutral will be 50 amps, and that's if you draw a full 50 amps on one hot leg, and zero on the other. In contrast, if the receptacle is improperly (and, BTW, unlawfully) wired as described above, with 120 volts from each hot to neutral, and zero volts between hots, then when you manage to draw the full 50 amps on both hots, you will be returning 100 amps on the neutral. Your neutral, which is only designed and rated to carry 50 amps, will quickly overheat. I can almost guarantee that the insulation will melt in short order, and then it's only a matter of time before something catches fire. If you are very lucky, something will melt all the way through first, breaking the circuit. Your circuit breakers, and the ones in the pedestal, will be no help, because they are in the hot side, and will see only 50 amps, as designed. I always test any pedestal before plugging in. I use a three-light tester for 120-volt outlets, but I use a voltmeter for the big boys. If I don't get 110-125 pole-to-neutral and 220-250 pole-to-pole, I open it up to find out why. Incidentally, on the subject of bone-headed campground wiring, you should be aware that, even if a receptacle tests fine with your tester or voltmeter, it can still have hidden problems that can bite you. I melted the plug on my cord this way once. And more than once, I've had to rewire campground pedestals to make them even usable (as well as safe). Links to the relevant blog posts, for the curious: http://ourodyssey.blogspot.com/2007/08/my-turn-to-catch-up-on-photos.html http://ourodyssey.blogspot.com/2007/07/staying-dry-side.html http://ourodyssey.blogspot.com/2007/07/just-missing-heat-wave.html http://ourodyssey.blogspot.com/2007/08/hotter-than-hades.html -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com | ||
| James Stacy (Jimstacy)
Registered Member Username: Jimstacy Post Number: 107 Registered: 1-2001 Posted From: 75.40.238.238 Rating: N/A |
Well said, Sean, I didn't get into the neutral current subject since I "assumed" it was apparent. A poor assumption on my part. BTW one of these spots was the then near new campground at Stone MT, GA. I tried to explain the problem to the young lady at the counter, who obviously felt I was mistaken since many folks had used that site before. I did insist she write it down, hoping someone would care. Thanks for explaining this problem. Jim Stacy | ||
| Kevin Black (Kblackav8or)
Registered Member Username: Kblackav8or Post Number: 76 Registered: 8-2005 Posted From: 24.152.174.198 Rating: N/A |
I picked up a Trace (now Zantrex) 3k Truck Series inverter charger. Nice piece of gear. I have 2/0 cable running it. I will eventually wire off the AC side though a switch and breaker to operate my block heater. 1 plug, charge batteries, warm the engine and AC power. Some of them will auto switch from AC source to DC source much like a UPS. I picked up mine off the local Craigs list. |
