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james (Dieseldust)
Registered Member
Username: Dieseldust
Post Number: 12
Registered: 3-2007
Posted From: 205.250.0.209
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 - 4:16 pm: | |
Can anyone tell me what to look out for on a older mirage 1981 , where where there bad spots to check out
Cheers James
Still Looking |
Gary Langley (Glang)
Registered Member
Username: Glang
Post Number: 11
Registered: 1-2001
Posted From: 71.7.150.163
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 - 7:33 pm: | |
Rust will be over rear wheels and on the frame rails where the engine mounts. |
Debbie and Joe Cannarozzi (Joe_camper)
Registered Member
Username: Joe_camper
Post Number: 56
Registered: 10-2006
Posted From: 71.239.202.82
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 - 8:48 pm: | |
We have an 86 and the only rust is about the size of a quarter at rear, port side lower, above the tail pipe. These are new to us and I haven't had the benefit of looking at many older coaches so I have nothing to gauge it off of?
On an older coach I would check dry rot on all rubber components. Air bags, brake chambers, radius rod bushings, tires, all hoses, air and fuel.
I'd be up on the roof checking for fresh silicone/leaks and window leaks. Especially the drivers slider they are notorious for leaks and if it is an automatic make sure the gear selector has not gotten wet, look at it from underneath from the open electrical panel door drivers side. The selector is about 350 to replace.
If it checks out take an open ended garden hose and lay it up on the roof while inspecting the inside.
Run it up to 120lbs air, release the brakes shut it off and time the air loss. Then check the service brakes with application pressure with the bus off as well.
If it is from a dealer I would insist it held at least 90lbs of air overnight with the brakes set, or a price adjustment relative to the results. If you can get a seller to get it to this point with the air system you will be ahead of the curve to start.
Check for sooting all around the exhaust components as well as the piping to the turbo, cracks in the manifolds, ect. Soot is the indicater there should be NONE.
If the fuel gauge is inop (common) and it is already a motor-home, access to the sending unit is through the plumbing bay and that means one of the water tanks has to be removed to access it. That is a big project.
We replaced all the air bags, they were very dry-rotted and all the radius-rod bushings, they turned out to be fair but I believe that they had been previously done.
Batteries are the other major issue/expense. Ask for paperwork or load test all, individually.
Windshields are not too expensive 169 a piece or so. Air bags are 169 a piece or so. Radius-rod bushings are like 6 bucks each and there are 28 of them. I have heard stories of shops taking 40 hrs to replace them all. We did our own it took about 25hr never having done them before. I'd also replace the Maxi-brake chambers they are around 79 bucks.
I could go on but I will stop here. Hope it helps.
When we bought ours it was a leaky filthy basket case with obvious signs of a lack of maintainence. We picked it up for way under wholesale and I am pretty mechanicly minded.
We were plesently rewarded by getting through the repairs with the positive results of all components coming back to life wonderfully. I can now park it on clean concrete without fear of embarasment opon leaving.
If you are the same type of person, I would not hesitate to suggest buying a neglected unit for less cash as we did for they are very well made and hold togeather well, even after major neglect and abuse.
Deb and Joe
86 Hickox XL
(Message edited by Joe camper on September 25, 2007) |
Ray Drummond (Ray_d)
Registered Member
Username: Ray_d
Post Number: 31
Registered: 4-2006
Posted From: 68.125.99.247
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 - 8:55 pm: | |
If you will send me your'e email, I will send you a fact sheet on inspecting Prevosts.
spam-rdrum1@sbcglobal.net
Ray D |
Muddog16 (Muddog16)
Registered Member
Username: Muddog16
Post Number: 365
Registered: 11-2004
Posted From: 4.224.189.212
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, September 26, 2007 - 2:45 am: | |
James, there are some photo's on my conversion process that show some spots you may want to look at I have a 82 LeMirage, most of the rust that I found was caused by the coach ac lines that run along the inside of both walls inside the bus. Over 25 years of condensation and moisture over the wheel wells is where I would look. Here is a link browse through and view the photo's for yourself. Good luck!
Pat
http://prevostlemirage.blogspot.com/ |
james (Dieseldust)
Registered Member
Username: Dieseldust
Post Number: 13
Registered: 3-2007
Posted From: 205.250.0.209
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, September 26, 2007 - 11:56 am: | |
Ray i tried to email you but for what ever reason it was rejected so here is my email dieseldust@telus.net, and to muddog dam you have a big project there i always admirered guys like you i not only wouldnt have the know how to atempt such a large project but not the place either,cheers to you and thanks for all the comments and advise form all the forum members.
Cheers to All
James
Thanks |
Rob King (Skykingrob)
Registered Member
Username: Skykingrob
Post Number: 19
Registered: 10-2006
Posted From: 72.161.4.92
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, September 26, 2007 - 11:09 pm: | |
Hi James
I have a 91 LeMirage XL 40' with 86K original miles. I purchased a CD from this link: www.coachinfo.com for my coach. On that CD are the areas that are worrisome for my coach. Since your coach is 10 yrs older, I don't know if it is the same areas. Also on the CD is the complete mainatance manual, specifications, and repair manual for the coach. It cost $110 including shipping so it isn't cheap but very worthwhile information.
Now to the rust areas. For the 91, the roof struts just behind both rear windows which are covered on the outside by fiberglass and inside by fiberglass so was impossible for me to see until I removed the interior. I was lucky enough to only have a problem of surface rust on the drivers side. I probably wouldn't have had that but several of the rivets holding the window frame to the fiberglass were gone and there was a crack in the fiberglass (leaks). The manual doesn't mention the area over the fenders and my coach didn't have a problem there. The only other rust area mentioned is above the entrance door and on the drivers side between the drivers window and the eyebrow window. Apparently, the side eyebrow windows can leak. Again, mine were okay and that area is covered with plastic formed coverings making it "pretty" so it is hard to see.
The other thing mentioned by the manual is stress fractures where the roof struts meet the roof trusses. The areas mentioned are above the side eyebrow windows, backside of the entrance door and the one behind the driver, then the ones behind the last windows. Again, you wouldn't find these until you remove the interior as they are covered with "pretty" plastic. The lower supports of the engine mount can have stress fractures but you got to get under there to see and its usually nasty so best advice, pay someone, who hopefully has a pit, to do an inspection. This is really the only costly problem if found.
Some things to inquire about the coach 1. where did it travel most of it's life (drier is better) 2. what company owned it (greyhound is not known for great maintance-"just keep her on the road" attitude, if the company is still in business-call them to speak to the maintance chief to get a feel for what they have done or if lucky, may have the maintance records for this coach) 3. what kind of use did it see, i.e.charter (good), casino runner(great), intercity, routes(not bad), etc.
All in all, Prevost don't generally have the rust issues other coaches have and generally, maintain higher resale values year for year.
Hope this helps a little and good luck.
Rob
91 LeMirage XL
Missouri |
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