Author |
Message |
Barry McCully (Turtle)
Registered Member Username: Turtle
Post Number: 7 Registered: 8-2007 Posted From: 71.7.185.171
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, October 12, 2007 - 9:30 am: | |
Just wanting to know what the best whey to run the wires for roof air on a MC-9 and I would like to use the front hatch in the roof is there a adapter kit a person can get. |
Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)
Registered Member Username: Drivingmisslazy
Post Number: 1996 Registered: 1-2001 Posted From: 75.108.77.39
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, October 12, 2007 - 9:36 am: | |
Barry, I believe all roof airs are wired from the inside, not thru the roof. Richard |
ChuckMC9 (Chucks)
Registered Member Username: Chucks
Post Number: 1134 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 68.240.88.168
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, October 12, 2007 - 12:06 pm: | |
Running the wires depends on whether you've installed a false ceiling or not. If not, you need to drill thru the roof structure and be sure to put in grommets or better where the wire goes thru the beams. There's lots of good info about all this in the archives. Many use the hatches. I did not. You have to build a framework inside the hatches. A day spent with the archives will tell you everything you want to know. |
James Stacy (Jimstacy)
Registered Member Username: Jimstacy
Post Number: 109 Registered: 1-2001 Posted From: 75.51.140.227
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, October 12, 2007 - 5:00 pm: | |
If you have not retained driver's air, mount the front roof air as far to the front as you can. Then direct the AC vents to blow to the front. You'll be glad you did. Jim Stacy |
John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9
Post Number: 531 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 66.217.107.132
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, October 12, 2007 - 9:01 pm: | |
Barry - After totally removing the escape hatch, grinding off the lip that will be left atop the roof, and removing/grinding off the hinge assemblies, you'll have to make up a 14-1/4 x 14-1/4 frame out of 2" square stock. Using aluminum for the frame, may add to vibration and noise, while using solid wood (oak) will help stifle vibration and noise. If you can't find an easy way to run the wires through the bus' panels, you can use "Wiremold" for the wire runs. That product affixes to the walls/ceiling easily, and makes surface wiring a breeze. It's used in fancy business locations, homes and shops.... and is designed to look good, as well as be as functional as possible. The plastic Wiremold (and similar types/brands) can be bent to conform the bus ceiling..... Just an udder option... |