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Jake Freidenberger (66.113.19.7)

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Posted on Monday, April 01, 2002 - 6:39 pm:   

, I was reading a previous post about interior wall building, and it started me thinking about pocket door construction. I am assuming most converters use some type of pocket door, and was just wanting to hear how you "wise guys' built your doors.
This is a weird question coming from a guy that doesnt have his bus yet,, but hey I can dream. Thanks Jake
Don KS/TX (205.187.92.227)

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Posted on Monday, April 01, 2002 - 9:00 pm:   

I hate pocket doors! Good converters do too it seems. They rattle, come off their tracks, take a thick wall without penetrations, etc. Besides that, every cheap RV I ever owned had them.
It seems to take a little more planning, but you can eliminate them if you wish
Stephen Fessenden (Sffess) (63.25.54.86)

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Posted on Monday, April 01, 2002 - 9:26 pm:   

I don't like pocket doors either. I like closet doors with two jambs that open to close off an area. Works great with the closets in the bathroom. You can build a good pocket door though if you don't use cheap home hardware. You could use Barn door track and make your own.
GeorgeMyers (12.85.0.143)

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Posted on Monday, April 01, 2002 - 9:44 pm:   

I have seen many pocket doors on commercial RVs that have square corners. Using them in a bus creates a problem when the door is opened because the corner of the door does not fit the curve between the side and the roof. They do work if they slide front to back, but generally not side to side.

There is also the head room problem. Most coaches do not have enough head room to have the track above the door that a pocked door rides on.

George Myers
christopher (12.91.19.80)

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Posted on Tuesday, April 02, 2002 - 12:46 pm:   

i used accuride slides.(2 lateral file draw slide type) mounted on one sideof the panel.works beautiful. no rattles,does not take up headroom.the only thing is when its open you see the slides.my aplication seperates the bedroom from the rest of the coach. i cut plywood to the shape of the wall, finished both sides,and put some welting on the top where it meats the ceiling. when its closed it looks like the wall. it takes up 5/8" for the panel and 1/2" for the track.
good luck
chris
Don Ripley (65.56.253.142)

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Posted on Tuesday, April 02, 2002 - 3:46 pm:   

I just put two in my conversion and they work very well.I used a track that is impossible for the doors to come off the track.I took alot of time building them but I like the way they turned out and no rattles. Don Ripley
David Anderson (168.215.176.137)

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Posted on Wednesday, April 03, 2002 - 12:12 am:   

I hate pocket doors, too. However, I had to put one in at the bath/kitchen transition. It worked well as the penetration receives my plumbing vents and the back of the shower valve. I have complete access to all those fittings.

On the other pentration where the door closes to, I am putting a pantry there. It worked out great. I lost very little cubic footage.

As for the rattling, I lined the frame with felt. No noise at all. The curve of the roof didn't matter because the door frame isn't next to the curve.

I bought the door and frame at Home Depot for about $72. Had to cut and reblock the door edges down to about 6'5" All in all it was a very easy installation.

In the bath/bedroom transition I made a double jamb door Stephen refered to above that serves a closet and doubles as the bedroom door. It worked great, too.
Don KS/TX (205.187.92.236)

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Posted on Wednesday, April 03, 2002 - 6:06 am:   

Some of the ideas I robbed from others, was the bedroom/bath door that serves double purpose of towell closet door and bedroom door, works great. For the kitchen to bath I made a door split down the center from top to bottom, snap open or closed hinges on its center section. You sort of unfold it to make a door. We love it.

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