| Author | Message | ||
| Buddy Tennison (Buddyten)
Registered Member Username: Buddyten Post Number: 44 Registered: 7-2005 Posted From: 207.68.234.24 Rating: N/A |
We have seen posts on here about slobber of a DD. We have come to realize that this is an integral part of running a DD (8V71). I don't think our slobber tubes run far enough down from the engine, as it (over time) causes some messy build up. I have seen some talk about extending the tubes almost to the ground, and others talk about a "catch" pan. If we extend them further down, do we just use rubber tubing, and how close to the ground do we need to let them run? Does anyone have a "set of plans" for making a catch pan? Where does it mount? How does it mount? Any help would be appreciated. | ||
| Jack Conrad (Jackconrad)
Registered Member Username: Jackconrad Post Number: 666 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 76.3.169.171 Rating: N/A |
Buddy, Our "Catch Pan" is simply a 18" length of 3" PVC pipe with a cap on each end. We added a breather from a hydraulic tank, a drain valve in the end and a couple barbed fittings for the rubber tubing from the slobber tubes to attach to. The barbed fittings and the drain are 1/4" pipe thread. After drilling and tapping the PVC, the fittings were screwd in. The breather was a 3/4" pipe thread and installed the same way. The tank was attached the the engine cradle below the level of the air boxes with a couple large hose clamps. Hope this helps, Jack | ||
| Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus Post Number: 146 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 74.33.51.192 Rating: N/A |
Buddy, Jacks way may be the easiest for you but another option for you on the Eagle if you can weld is the engine cross members are a welded box type front and rear.You weld 1/4in pipe collars on each side for for the tubes a 3/8 in collar on the bottom for a drain and a 1/2 in collar for the vent.install 2 hose barbs on the side attach a hose from each tube..I built mine this way to the front cross member because it the easiest good luck | ||
| JC Alacoque (Jc_alacoque)
Registered Member Username: Jc_alacoque Post Number: 50 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 74.127.205.107 Rating: N/A |
I installed rubber tubing extentions to within a couple inches of the ground. It minimizes the mess. I have a catch pan on my list that I will get around to building some day. | ||
| Dan West (Utahclaimjumper)
Registered Member Username: Utahclaimjumper Post Number: 75 Registered: 1-2005 Posted From: 208.66.38.115 Rating: N/A |
While we are on the subject, do ALL 8V71s have tubes?, I understood the dry liner engines did not.>>>Dan | ||
| Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus Post Number: 148 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 74.33.51.192 Rating: N/A |
Dan, i have never seen anything but a dry liner 8v71 and all had tubes never knew that DD made anything but a dry liner 8v71 (Message edited by luvrbus on November 15, 2007) | ||
| Jerry Liebler (Jerry_liebler)
Registered Member Username: Jerry_liebler Post Number: 299 Registered: 3-2005 Posted From: 67.140.168.194 Rating: N/A |
Buddy, It's a bit controversial but. There are kits available from Detroit Diesel that route the airbox drains into the crankcase, eliminating slobber tubes! The kits are only available for upright engines and my bus has a 43 degree tilted engine. I made my own kit and eliminated the slobber tubes. I know of 2 other busses that have had similar mods made. One of them has been running this way for 15 years and 200,000 miles with no issues. Regards Jerry 4107 1120 | ||
| marvin pack (Gomer)
Registered Member Username: Gomer Post Number: 126 Registered: 3-2007 Posted From: 76.4.149.200 Rating: N/A |
several years ago we ran a 6-71 in an 04 and it constantly slobbered=all over da place. So being the engenis person that I be I found a plastic milk jug and put some hose on the tubes and ran them into the jug and after a few thousand miles we just dumped it out and started all over again, silly but it works on ALL DD that slobbers, I think that all do don't they? Oh bty we did upgrade to a more complex way. | ||
| Gus Causbie (Gusc)
Registered Member Username: Gusc Post Number: 539 Registered: 11-2005 Posted From: 63.97.117.21 Rating: N/A |
On my 4104 with 671 I use rubber tube extensions that just clear the ground, made a big difference in the rear end mess but I plan to eventually make a catch container of some type. I like the plastic jug idea, simple but effective. | ||
| Rob King (Skykingrob)
Registered Member Username: Skykingrob Post Number: 23 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 72.161.3.72 Rating: N/A |
Hi Buddy If you will hit the search word in the upper right of the main page, then type "slobber tube", you will find 17 different threads dealing with slobber tubes. There is one dated October 2003 that has 2 links that used to show pictures of the "approved" DD slobber tube catchment pans. Unfortunately, the link didn't work anymore for me but I do know the local DD dealer said they were still available from DD. The present cost of $108 each side seems totally out of line to me. While I haven't put them on my 8V yet, I will use some type of clear/milky white plastic jugs/containers and some type of retainer strap to hold to the engine. HTH Rob 91 LeMirage XL Missouri | ||
| Tom Caffrey (Pvcces)
Registered Member Username: Pvcces Post Number: 1146 Registered: 5-2001 Posted From: 65.74.67.83 Rating: N/A |
We bought a kit from DD off of eBay that was made for our bus engine. We installed it and have yet to drain it, after 15,000 miles. As I recall, they put out three kits, at least one of them was for a bus. Ours is a dry block and has two tubes. The kit was built for 1/4" fittings, but we got ours from a different engine that had 3/8" fittings, so we had to do some reducing. These are intended to have the so-called check valves. These are really pressure controlled blocking valves. If the blower is not developing much pressure, they are open. When the engine is revved up, they close. This means that they vent while idling. For what it's worth. Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576 Suncatcher Ketchikan, Alaska | ||
| JR Lynch (Njt5047)
Registered Member Username: Njt5047 Post Number: 198 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 69.132.233.230 Rating: N/A |
One could clamp a 12" long piece of 4" capped PVC to the engine cradle (below the engine) with two 1/8" pipe barbs in the ends and have a cheapo slobber can. Attach the air-box drains to the barbs and you'll stop those messy pukes on the ground. The catch-can should be vented somehow. A standpipe in the bottom, or even a 1/2" K&N vent filter in the top. Be sure and install some sort of plug in the bottom so it can be drained occasionally. Someone like Caylor's Supply would have junked NJTs that have catch cans as standard issue. They bolt onto the oil pan just in front of the harmonic balance. Probably would fit most 8V or 6Vs. Work on a 6/71 too...just use one end. Catch-cans are not technical devices. A nice bucket wire tied to the cradle would work fine...might look a little over-engineered! As long as the slobber tubes are not pressurized, anything that catches the draining oil is OK. JR | ||
| H3-40 (Ace)
Registered Member Username: Ace Post Number: 696 Registered: 10-2004 Posted From: 75.201.11.239 Rating: N/A |
Check with Manny (buscrazyinflorida)who frequents here often. If I'm not mistaken he bought a pre-made slobber eliminator kit from somewhere that is simple and it appears to be working just fine! Ace | ||
| Ed Roelle (Ed_roelle)
Registered Member Username: Ed_roelle Post Number: 48 Registered: 3-2005 Posted From: 69.136.130.161 Rating: N/A |
I did not have as much luck with the PVC pipe as Jack did. Although drilled, tapped, pipe tape, etc., over time because the heat effected the PVC, the fittings seaped oil. I then made a steel tank. On a related subject, I would not recommend building a tank for your breather tubes (pipe about 1 1/4" diameter that come down the engine). I built one and filled the tank with a very coarse steel "wool". I found that even though I thought it was free-breathing, it must have built-up small pressures to significantly change a rear main oil seapage to a nasty leak. The leak stopped when I removed the tank. Ed Roelle Flint, MI | ||
| RJ Long (Rjlong)
Registered Member Username: Rjlong Post Number: 1325 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 67.181.166.160 Rating: N/A |
IIRC, Detroit has discontinued the catch tank unit that feeds the oil back into the crankcase. Seems that there was more than just oil in the slobber tubes - diesel, soot, small birds, field mice, etc. Diesel, of course, was the main culprit, since the slobber tubes drain the air boxes, where you're more likely to find unburned fuel, especially at idle. 4" ABS plastic sewer pipe works well for a kit-bashed unit, and isn't affected as much as PVC with the heat. FWIW & HTH. . .  | ||
| John Lacey (Junkman42)
Registered Member Username: Junkman42 Post Number: 24 Registered: 3-2007 Posted From: 204.49.140.186 Rating: N/A |
I have been using 1 gallon oil containers for My catch cans on my slobber tubes. One problem is that on the passenger side tube I always get splatter everwhere. It appears that the use of the jake brake causes this. I beleive that it is possible that there are jakes only on the right bank. Can anyone shed light on this? John | ||
| Jerry Liebler (Jerry_liebler)
Registered Member Username: Jerry_liebler Post Number: 303 Registered: 3-2005 Posted From: 67.140.168.194 Rating: N/A |
RJ, I had been told that DD had discontinued the kit by several on this board 3 years ago when I bought one from DD only to find it didn't work on a tilted engine, so I returned it. DD still has 4 active service bulletins that discuss installing the kit. For several years it was required on engines sold in California. I also recall the assertion that there is unburned fuel in the drainage. That's either BS or the engine has real serious problems. It's simply a fact that the exaust valve opens well before the port to the airbox is opened and the airbox is pressurised to force the exaust out of not into the airbox. Fuel is only injected into the cylnders and the air only flows out of the airbox, however oil from the cylinder walls is pushed into the airbox. If an engine has enough blow by to coat the cylinder walls with unburned fuel, well in that sad case there might be some fuel in the drainage. Regards Jerry 4107 1120 | ||
| Frank Allen (Frank66)
Registered Member Username: Frank66 Post Number: 62 Registered: 10-2005 Posted From: 205.188.117.73 Rating: N/A |
my 4106 has the check valve and is routed back to crankcase, has been like that for 20 yrs Frank allen | ||
| Dan West (Utahclaimjumper)
Registered Member Username: Utahclaimjumper Post Number: 76 Registered: 1-2005 Posted From: 208.66.38.115 Rating: N/A |
My 06 is the same way and is definatly tilted.>>>Dan |