| Author | Message | ||
| Melanie Kite (Melkite)
Registered Member Username: Melkite Post Number: 3 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 71.0.54.230 Rating: N/A |
We noticed that the throttle cable is binding - won't move at all. Dave needs help on what to do. Replace the cable? Just try to lubricate what we have? We do have a manual but not the "how to" know how. thanks - I'm going to also post on gm board in Yahoo. We've finally put the engine and automatic back in the bus after modifying the bulkhead and bottom support beam and are reconnecting everything else. Next to get installed is a shifter and cable for the automatic. Dave doesn't want to finish putting the new sub flooring down until the throttle issue is taken care of. thanks! | ||
| Jim Wilke (Jim Bob) (Pd41044039)
Registered Member Username: Pd41044039 Post Number: 218 Registered: 2-2001 Posted From: 69.77.147.214 Rating: N/A |
Melanie, most replies will suggest that you replace the throttle cable with an air throttle. Since you are going with an automatic there's probably no reason not to. There are many folks (myself included) that maintain that if you have a stick shift that the cable provides better throttle "feel" for up & down shifting. If you decide to clean & lube the cable (a piece of periodic maintenance that was probably overlooked for 30 years or so.) it is not too hard to do. My bus is almost as old as yours & I found that the cable was binding in the first 5 feet from the back end. Actually about the first 2 feet. GM made the outer casing out of brass tubing in 3 foot sections connected together with flare fittings. If a section went bad you could replace just that piece. The inner cable is still available & looks like speedometer cable. Mine was so stuck that I removed the rear 3 foot section with the inner cable & soaked the end in penetrating oil & worked it free. I cleaned all thoroughly, greased the inner cable, reassembled & adjusted per the book. Has worked fine for 10 years with very little foot effort. Jim-Bob ('59 4104) | ||
| john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Registered Member Username: Chessie4905 Post Number: 758 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 71.58.48.5 Rating: N/A |
Unless is adamant about wanting a cable system, go with air throttle. MORSE controls manufacture cable/casing assemblies in just about any lenght desired with lifetime lubrication. One nice thing about the cable system is that it is easier to modulate the throttle, as air throttles are almost ON-OFF. Cable might be tough to replace, but would be cheaper than complete air throttle system unless you find an inexpensive used one. | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 99 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 66.90.229.89 Rating: |
Disconect the cable at BOTH ends and squirt PB Blaster (or your favorite) at the center. It should free up in a day or so , so you can remove the cable. Once its loose use diesel in a squirt can and run the old cable thru a bunch of times. Use air to blow out the diesel ,(from the front!) and let it sit (the diesel to leave) for another day. Install a NEW cable with waterproof teflon grease (good to -50F ) and you will have the instant throttle responde and fine feel needed to silently shift a stick shift. FF | ||
| ned sanders (Uncle_ned)
Registered Member Username: Uncle_ned Post Number: 43 Registered: 5-2005 Posted From: 68.213.111.136 Rating: N/A |
Who is this fast fred fellow. is this a call from the past. Good to hear you are still kicking. uncle ned | ||
| joe padberg (Joemc7ab)
Registered Member Username: Joemc7ab Post Number: 172 Registered: 6-2004 Posted From: 66.38.159.33 Rating: N/A |
fred Your witt and wisdom have been sorely missed on this board for a while. Welcome back. Joe. | ||
| L James Jones Jr (Jamo)
Registered Member Username: Jamo Post Number: 14 Registered: 11-2007 Posted From: 74.79.238.110 Rating: N/A |
I was wondering what you guys were talking about here...I've been reading Fast Fred's posts on a daily basis. Then I realized I've been spending a lot of time reading the arcives, and you're there a lot, Fast Fred. You sure have my respect. Thanks to all you B'Nutz... | ||
| marvin pack (Gomer)
Registered Member Username: Gomer Post Number: 136 Registered: 3-2007 Posted From: 76.4.149.200 Rating: N/A |
hey guys, that is why they call him FAST FRED, He got ahead of himself toooo far and we had to catch up?, or maybe he slowed down so we could catch up? Oh well what the heck here we are. confused as usual gomer | ||
| Tom Caffrey (Pvcces)
Registered Member Username: Pvcces Post Number: 1151 Registered: 5-2001 Posted From: 65.74.67.83 Rating: N/A |
Hi, Fast Fred. I'm glad to see you posting again. Tom Caffrey | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 101 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 66.90.229.224 Rating: N/A |
Thank You gents for the kind welcome back. FF | ||
| Melanie Kite (Melkite)
Registered Member Username: Melkite Post Number: 4 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 71.0.54.230 Rating: N/A |
as usual, wonderful replies. You folks are so helpful, especially FAST FRED. Now Dave feels better - he was worried that the replies would be "lotsa luck". Thank you. Now, is it better to push the cable thru completely or disconnect each section of tubing, then push & pull the new cable. I think we will keep the cable system for now - we have enough expenses! | ||
| Jim Wilke (Jim Bob) (Pd41044039)
Registered Member Username: Pd41044039 Post Number: 219 Registered: 2-2001 Posted From: 208.231.108.78 Rating: N/A |
There should be a clevis fitting at each end, clamped to the center cable part. Disconnect the front clevis (DON'T LOSE THE LITTLE KEY PART!!) and pull the cable out from the rear. If it's so stuck it just won't pull, then disconnect the rear clevis and take apart a section or so of the outer tubing at a time starting at the back 'till you find the section that is binding. Be careful with the outer sections, the tubing is brass, not copper and so is fairly brittle. You may not need a new cable once you get this one out, cleaned & greased. And boy, do most of us understand the expense/budget part! Jim-Bob | ||
| john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Registered Member Username: Chessie4905 Post Number: 760 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 71.58.48.5 Rating: N/A |
With that many miles and age, you may find that the brass tubing wall is worn through in one or more locations. If so, you can use brake tubing and brass couplers to repair it. This comes from lack of lube over several years. Hopefully it is just dry. | ||
| Tom Caffrey (Pvcces)
Registered Member Username: Pvcces Post Number: 1152 Registered: 5-2001 Posted From: 65.74.67.83 Rating: N/A |
Depending on how dry that brake tubing stays, it might have a fairly short life. With dissimilar metals, it needs to stay dry. For what it's worth. Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576 Suncatcher Ketchikan, Alaska |
