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Bart Duncan (Bartman)
Registered Member Username: Bartman
Post Number: 5 Registered: 11-2007 Posted From: 68.185.135.211
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, November 27, 2007 - 8:44 pm: | |
O.K. guys - I have finally taken out all of the seats in my 1981 Prevost. the factory toilet looks good - (1)do I really have to take it out? (2) I have found that the Prevost people put sheet metal in their over head storage (4 blades of a "saws all")any wisdom on this deconstruction? (3) heating vents on the floor are next - will roof air(s) take care of my heating needs? Thanks guys! |
john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Registered Member Username: Chessie4905
Post Number: 761 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 71.58.48.5
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, November 27, 2007 - 9:37 pm: | |
If you leave it in, you will be smelling urine odors on damp and muggy days from the years of use that eventually got the substance into the flooring and plywood. |
Tony LEE (T_lee)
Registered Member Username: T_lee
Post Number: 10 Registered: 11-2007 Posted From: 124.177.123.183
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, November 27, 2007 - 10:03 pm: | |
"will roof air(s) take care of my heating needs? " Need to consider whether you are likely to be driving in very cold conditions and how you would power any alternatives while on the road.. Generally the original washroom set up is pretty spartan anyway - and it is also designed for the tank to be emptied every few hours , so the volume is generally too small for serious boondocking, and also the valve and ventilation arrangement is inadequate and designed for a coach that is always on the move. Very few layouts allow the washroom to be right down the back and piping the waste water from basins and showers past the drive and tag axles to tanks in the rear bin can be very difficult. (Message edited by t_lee on November 27, 2007) |
Ed Jewett (Kristinsgrandpa)
Registered Member Username: Kristinsgrandpa
Post Number: 349 Registered: 2-2003 Posted From: 64.24.212.158
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, November 27, 2007 - 10:30 pm: | |
"will roof air(s) take care of my heating needs? " That depends on how much insulation you put in. Ed |
Simon Ayriss (Design_dog)
Registered Member Username: Design_dog
Post Number: 53 Registered: 3-2007 Posted From: 69.227.189.77
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, November 28, 2007 - 5:51 am: | |
For what it's worth. My best friends are a grinder with a good metal cut-off wheel and an air chisel. The more I pull things apart and learn the more I realize the truth is you can do just about anything you want. Right or wrong everyone might do something different. The other day I ran across the photos of the topsy-turvy bus. My first thought was what a waste of another good bus body but on the other hand made me smile a little to think what people can actually do. I saw a few pictures the other day of a Prevost bathroom. Not exactly quite like an MCI stainless if I remember correctly. But anyway, I do agree with Tony Lee "Very few layouts allow the washroom to be right down the back and piping the waste water from basins and showers past the drive and tag axles to tanks in the rear bin can be very difficult." Heh. It is rather a poor idea to have lines running "around" the tag axle and even the engine compartment for a motorhome. I suppose you could bypass all that an make it direct. But you would need to replumb it. And you could add a bigger tank. Typically people pull the back lavatory out so that they can put their bedroom and / or bed in the very back. But you can configure your bus floorplan whatever way you want I suppose. It's all about decisions. I understand. Taking the bathroom out really is a big job (as are other wonderful duties.) Not to mention the big hole in the back firewall. What it will allow though is flexibility for configuration (where exactly you want to put your bathroom,) more space, and possibly, as Tony said, better logistics on practical plumbing. I plan on putting my bathroom right near the last bay on the drivers side. Shortest line. If you are crazy enough to do it. Good luck and have fun. Get ready to take your time. If you can get help take it. Where safety glasses and a good mask. |
Simon Ayriss (Design_dog)
Registered Member Username: Design_dog
Post Number: 54 Registered: 3-2007 Posted From: 69.227.189.77
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, November 28, 2007 - 6:55 am: | |
One last thing. Probably not in the bus bible. If you can, get a T Bar. It's like a crowbar, but, hey, go figure, it's a T. Sort of like a 3 ended crow bar. Also known as a rocker bar. Look for it or something similar. They have them at harbor freight. It will help pry apart sheet metal, window frames, floor plates, etc. Also find what's called a 'masons' chisel. It's usually about 3-4 inches and solid steel. It should have, and make sure, only One angled side to the chisel. The other side is completely Flat. Which means you can butt it up against a wall or floor, hammer down, and the angled side will "angle up" or pry up rivets, metal sheeting, flooring, etc. Should look something like this, just not necessarily blue. Invaluable tool. Will come in handy are some point. $6 And try not to hammer your hand.
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Bart Duncan (Bartman)
Registered Member Username: Bartman
Post Number: 6 Registered: 11-2007 Posted From: 68.185.135.211
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, November 28, 2007 - 7:15 am: | |
thanks for all the wisdom guys - I'm not looking forward to taking apart the restroom but your gotta do what you gotta do! |