| Author | Message | ||
| Buddy Tennison (Buddyten)
Registered Member Username: Buddyten Post Number: 47 Registered: 7-2005 Posted From: 207.68.234.24 Rating: N/A |
I have noticed in the pictures you guys sometimes post that the flooring seems to be continuous, without regard for the floor access hatches. In our Eagle, we have one up front, and two or three over the engine compartment in the rear. Our mechanic complained that the one over the drivers side of the engine was covered over and he couldn't easily access that side of the engine. Do you have any suggestions about covering these hatches? Should they be covered with carpet, wood or tile flooring, etc? If they should be left accessible, how do you cover them with the floor covering to make them at least a little attractive. I realize that with carpeting, one could just pull back the carpet and pad. Especially for the front access, what is under there that could not be accessed from underneath the coach? I understand about the rear hatches. We are contemplating installing laminate flooring in our coach, and need to know the best thing to do with these. | ||
| Glenn Williams (Glenn)
Registered Member Username: Glenn Post Number: 113 Registered: 6-2006 Posted From: 216.163.56.85 Rating: N/A |
I am a firm believer of keeping them acessable. In my first bus, a GMC4905, the floor had been covered in plywood and then in laminate flooring and the front acess hatch had been covered. Turned out I needed into it to install a new throttle cable. Had to get in and cut the floor. In my current MCI 7, there is only a rear hatch which I measured out and cut the laminate flooring to make a hole. This left a bit of gap around the edge, but it will be under the bed, so I am not worried. The bed will raise. I'd do the same thing in your case. Instead of using the pieces that are cut out of the flooring as the cover, I might cut new ones out of extra flooring so the gap would not be as big. Maybe router in a place for a nice recessed folding latch to lift the whole piece out. Then cover it with a bit of rug. We keep some carpet by the bed anyway for cold mornings on bare feet. Hope this helps! Glenn | ||
| L James Jones Jr (Jamo)
Registered Member Username: Jamo Post Number: 16 Registered: 11-2007 Posted From: 74.79.238.110 Rating: N/A |
I never thought about access through the floor. Does anyone have a layout of where any/all access hatches may have been in my 4104-204?? All carpet & lino front to back, but we will be doing some interior mods when we get back to warmer weather. BTW: I do have OEM Service & Parts manuals...maybe something in there?? Thanks...........Jamo | ||
| Paul Lawry (Dreamscape)
Registered Member Username: Dreamscape Post Number: 188 Registered: 5-2007 Posted From: 64.40.222.139 Rating: N/A |
In our 68 Ealge 01 I am making sure that all access doors to the tunnel and engine have easy access. Our Queen bed is directly over the engine hatches, covered with plywood and carpet for easy removal. The other three will be framed in for the ease of removing the panels with the flooring on top. I want to be able to get to anything in that tunnel at all times. With the trans. linkage, throttle linkage, wiring, coolant lines down there you never know what you need to get to and when. | ||
| Jim Wilke (Jim Bob) (Pd41044039)
Registered Member Username: Pd41044039 Post Number: 226 Registered: 2-2001 Posted From: 72.242.136.203 Rating: N/A |
James, I don't think the '04 had any floor access hatches. The only access I am aware of from inside is a hatch in the bottom of what was the rear bench seat. (Which is REALLY handy when needed!) I have had to work through this hatch 3 times: once on the clutch/shift linkage, once on the exhaust manifold gaskets & once on the muffler attachments to the manifolds. (One of these was in a campground 800 miles from home!) None could be done from underneath. Just can't reach. Wasn't fun from the top but do able. Jim-Bob | ||
| Simon Ayriss (Design_dog)
Registered Member Username: Design_dog Post Number: 68 Registered: 3-2007 Posted From: 69.227.189.77 Rating: N/A |
This is a great question. I was wondering myself about this and was going to ask it pretty soon since I have to deal with flooring. "With the trans. linkage, throttle linkage, wiring, coolant lines down there you never know what you need to get to and when." "None could be done from underneath. Just can't reach. Wasn't fun from the top but do able." I guess it's pretty much answered and clear to say. Someone else confirm this. The engine and transmission access hatch are vital for maintenance and quick access for repair / troubleshooting.[?] Meaning it's certainly not advisable or a good call to floor over these access panels or make them -unaccessible. I was thinking about putting flooring up to that natural trap, reinforcing the little 'door' or making a new one, and either putting in a gasket or possibly using sealant. (if access is needed then just break the seal with a screwdriver and reseal) What do you think? If the access panels must remain - My only concern is wanting to get a good seal on the back end of the bus internally. I don't want any leaks. Pretty much goes for the whole backend, the firewall, the hole where the toilet was and hoses, etc. Any thoughts? or recommend a good heat resistant sealer [?] | ||
| Glenn Williams (Glenn)
Registered Member Username: Glenn Post Number: 114 Registered: 6-2006 Posted From: 216.163.56.85 Rating: N/A |
I found that the MCI original hatches do a very nice job. I just laid my rubber underlayment for the laminate flooing on top of it and dropped on the pieces cut from the laminate floor back in. The PO put plywood over the original back seat ledge and cut an access hole in it for the hatch there as well. My bed will be covering the floor hatch and will be sitting on the seat ledge. You coud be fancy and attach the flooring permantly to your hatch covers and use recycled window latches to hold it down or something similar depending on how your bus will be laid out. You could pick up household door insulation tape and use it to seal the hole to the cover. I'm planning on that now that I just thought of it! You really don't have to worry about heat at this location. If anything melts, then something else is on fire! Trust me, I know! Don't ask why, but always carry several fire extinguishers! Glenn | ||
| Debbie and Joe Cannarozzi (Joe_camper)
Registered Member Username: Joe_camper Post Number: 75 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 71.239.202.82 Rating: N/A |
I would keep all hatches for all the obvious reasons. Here is how our converter worked it out on ours.  This is an engine hatch on a prevo with a rear gally and bath.  The bathroom wall was tongue and grooved to facilitate the removal of that hatch. | ||
| Simon Ayriss (Design_dog)
Registered Member Username: Design_dog Post Number: 74 Registered: 3-2007 Posted From: 69.227.189.77 Rating: N/A |
Joe. Great to look at. Thanks for the photos! | ||
| Debbie and Joe Cannarozzi (Joe_camper)
Registered Member Username: Joe_camper Post Number: 77 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 71.239.202.82 Rating: N/A |
The next time I remove it I'll take some more of the bottom lip and seal. The hatches and seals themselves were engineered by Prevo, the converter did not change them in any way, simply kept them acessable. (Message edited by Joe camper on December 09, 2007) | ||
| don (Bottomacher)
Registered Member Username: Bottomacher Post Number: 153 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 72.15.86.59 Rating: N/A |
I'm curious to know if anyone has HAD to use the floor hatch on a MC9. Don | ||
| Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Registered Member Username: Buswarrior Post Number: 1124 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 76.68.122.52 Rating: N/A |
Hello Don. The air regulators for the tag axle are on the bulkhead just ahead of the floor access. It also lets you access the throttle linkage for lubrication, the back side of the air compressor and the back side of the alternator, never mind if you get into some top end engine work with the block still in the coach. Not an everyday need, but those two access points, on the floor and on the seat are handy for working back there. happy coaching! buswarrior | ||
| Tony LEE (T_lee)
Registered Member Username: T_lee Post Number: 11 Registered: 11-2007 Posted From: 58.165.186.43 Rating: N/A |
"I'm curious to know if anyone has HAD to use the floor hatch on a MC9" With the rear bathroom and the holding tank out, there is certainly a lot better access to that section of the engine. And IF you can get underneath the bus and squirm up past the drive shaft then that helps with stuff over the gearbox. And if you remove the air cleaner and brackets, then stuff around the alternator is easier to get at. BUT if you have both rear hatches still accessible, all that area is easily reached through the hatches. The rear of the alternator and the compressor and especially oil lines at the top rear of the engine would be very difficult to inspect or service without access to the hatches. My oil-cooled alternator has the drain line secured by a worm drive clip and the only way I could get at it was through the hatch - full arm stretch but at least I could do it. | ||
| Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Registered Member Username: Buswarrior Post Number: 1131 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 76.66.18.54 Rating: N/A |
So, in summary, floor hatches are handy, but not completely neccessary, depending on your personal size, shape and flexibility. Gentlemen, if we retire to the camp chairs and the cooler, the decison will be clearer? happy coaching! buswarrior | ||
| don (Bottomacher)
Registered Member Username: Bottomacher Post Number: 154 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 72.15.86.59 Rating: N/A |
Nuts. I intend to install my fresh water tank under the master bunk, and I'm going to be real unfriendly if I have to remove it to get to that hatch. Thanks for the responses, folks. Don |