| Author |
Message |
James Dersch (Dncrjim)
Registered Member
Username: Dncrjim
Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2007
Posted From: 213.96.184.133
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, December 11, 2007 - 5:27 am: | |
BUS
Hello, new poster here… I’ve been floating around for about a year, and probably have another year or two before serious purchasing search, but I’m extremely OCD, and I have some revolutionary ideas for someone to shoot down.
The everlasting water tank question… There is a similar discussion… http://www.busnut.com/bbs/messages/233/4679.html ...but it’s a different concept. I’m also curious if the tanks discussed in that thread were ever built, or how they held up…
Part 1)
I came across some flexible plastic tanks the other day. They’re designed for places which loose water service (in hurricanes for example). Is it possible to build a proper shape from plywood and then insert one (or two) of these tanks into it as a bladder(s)? They are for sale for example at: www.mywatersafe.com & www.waterbob.com, and are made of low-density polyethylene plastic. The article I read also said they were available in hardware stores, but I’ve had no luck locating them. Obviously there is the factor of durability with these tanks, and it would change the dynamics of the water system. However, the price and ability to change the design, as well as the possibility to put tanks into very confined spaces looks promising. Are there any specific rules as to the use of this type of tank in an RV system? Perhaps there are laws regulating vents, etc. that I’m not aware of? If nothing else, one of these tanks could be used as an auxiliary when there is a concern about running out.
*Obviously this will not work for a black water tank*
Part 2)
If you have 150g worth of gray and fresh water tanks, you’re only going to have (at any given point) 75g or so of actual water. 75g is 10 cubic feet of air… which is completely wasted space. Yes, that isn’t much, but every little bit counts right? And the more water you have, the more space you are wasting. Having 150g of fresh water nets you an average of 125g of wasted space, netting you 17ft. Using the aforementioned tanks, could you combine the storage crate for the two water tanks so that as one emptied the other filled? A problem that I note is that the gray water tank would need as few external pressures so as to properly fill only from the weight of the water, also, drainage may require a pump? This is of particular interest to me, because I am hoping to worry about water as little as possible, and using a system similar to this would allow me to put 200g of fresh water in the same space as most people carry 125g.
*Obviously, my head is in the clouds* |
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member
Username: Fast_fred
Post Number: 120
Registered: 10-2006
Posted From: 66.90.229.234
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, December 11, 2007 - 6:34 am: | |
Our method was to simply mount RV tamks inside on the floor , and install the cabinetry above,
Yes the empty tank space is waisted , but the bottom 10 inches of a dresser, or under a fridge is seldom missed.
55gal of FW and 55G Combined tales us a week of boondockin . Inside there is no waisted bay space ,or winterizing , and the tanks are cheap to ship with UPS.
FF |
Tony LEE (T_lee)
Registered Member
Username: T_lee
Post Number: 12
Registered: 11-2007
Posted From: 58.165.106.113
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, December 11, 2007 - 7:57 pm: | |
Marine stores usually have them too. Used a lot in boats because they can just be laid in any odd space and will conform to the shape.
I have a 25 gallon one I use to fetch water in the Suzuki when we are camped in one spot for more than three weeks. Folds up and is stored under the seat when not in use. Can't do that with rigid tanks. |
John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member
Username: John_mc9
Post Number: 555
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 66.217.107.162
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 12, 2007 - 12:13 am: | |
Re:
"I came across some flexible plastic tanks the other day.
They’re designed for places which loose water service (in
hurricanes for example). Is it possible to build a proper
shape from plywood and then insert one (or two) of these
tanks into it as a bladder(s)? "
Keep in mind, the weight of the liquid inside the tank!
Water weighs around 8 lbs per gallon (we always figured 10
lbs per, to compensate for the tank itself). A flexible tank
with 40 gallons inside, will have over 300 lbs of force
sloshing around.
If you use a thin plastic tank, and neglect to build a box
strong enough, will you have enough mops and rags to clean
up the errrrr....sludge?
Oh.... And as most all avid RVers can tell you, you must
have enough water in the "black tank" to successfully empty
it. If you don't, you'll end up with a pile of feces that
you won't easily get out. There's nothing worse than a
constipated black tank!
Combining the black and grey into one tank, is a simple
remedy, and makes it easy to dump. Less initially expensive
also, since one tank only requires fittings and valves for
one tank....
And fresh water? While on the road, it's always nice to have
plenty of water. We drink bottled water, and limit showers,
but when the water pump let go in the RV, we had plenty of
water to get off the road.... A 100gal tank is nice!
Cheers! |
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member
Username: Fast_fred
Post Number: 124
Registered: 10-2006
Posted From: 66.90.229.83
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 12, 2007 - 6:23 am: | |
IN the marine industry , using the finest poop hose (thick and e$pensive!), the smell will permiate thru the hose wall to stink in about 5 years.
A rubber FW bladder in the same box as the poop will probably last weeks before the FW begins to smell.
FF |
James Dersch (Dncrjim)
Registered Member
Username: Dncrjim
Post Number: 4
Registered: 11-2007
Posted From: 88.3.17.61
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 12, 2007 - 7:01 am: | |
Obviously any alternative method of building a tank involves a lot of time spent on reinforcement. And I'm looking towards an alternative to a black tank, perhaps an incinerating alternative. Another reason I'm interested in these tanks is the fact that they come with the only fitting you would need. because they expand and contract, no overflows or air vents, or extra fittings are needed. All of that is designed into the plumbing, so if anything does happen to the tank, a spare can be yanked out and placed into the frame of the old one.
My concept was to use 100G stand alone tanks. I think the strength is worth it, and images on one of the sites show carrying 6 of the 100Gs in the back of a truck, and the site says you can roll them off the back of a truck. (don't think it'll be rolling one out of the bus anytime soon.) And yes, I know I'm discussing much more long term usage...
For me this concept works very well, especially since I have access to materials for a very well constructed shell for free. And at no point am I implying that it would work for a black tank or any manner of particularly nasty waste.
There is an issue knowing when it's full if you're working with very high line pressure. My other thoughts center around how to make sure water flows in and out as planned, especially if I'm using it for grey, what ensures that the pressure allows it to flow into the bag? would I need some kind of pump? or would some kind of large-scale one-way restrictor be sufficient?
(Message edited by dncrjim on December 12, 2007) |
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member
Username: Fast_fred
Post Number: 125
Registered: 10-2006
Posted From: 66.90.226.57
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 12, 2007 - 3:46 pm: | |
And at no point am I implying that it would work for a black tank or any manner of particularly nasty waste.
You might read up on the pathogens in Grey water.
They will easily make you as ill as the black tank contents.
100G , will you be boondockin for Months on end?
FF |
|