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John G Root Jr (Johnroot) (140.186.114.253)

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Posted on Sunday, April 14, 2002 - 8:30 pm:   

I bought a rust converter -- "1" Step (The Rust Killer)-- which is supposed to stop rust by converting to some inert black stuff. The rear window skin on my 4106 is steel and the frame especially was rusting badly. The stuff seems to work, but before I seal it up with insulation etc. does anyone have experience that this stuff works? Thanks
John
CoryDaneRTSIIIL (198.29.191.147)

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Posted on Sunday, April 14, 2002 - 10:15 pm:   

I tried a product one time but found that it only repaired the problem temporarily. It became a problem later, though less extreme.
I have recently used something called POR15 that dries incredibly hard and seals the metal from the moisture, stopping any further corrosion. I have had good luck with this product, saved my friends nissan sentra from the rust bandits until the tranny failed. Stopped the rust in its tracks for 2 years. Still not rusting when the hook came to get it. Just my view - cd
RCBishop (128.123.88.39)

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Posted on Sunday, April 14, 2002 - 11:07 pm:   

Cory..I tried to find this product locally with no luck. Napa Said they had never heard of it. Any ideas on a supplier?
Thanx,
RCB
John Biundo (Jbiundo) (64.175.37.51)

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Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 1:28 am:   

RCB -

try www.por15.com.

Around $100/gallon. I also bought their metal prep stuff. Haven't used yet, but heard lots of good stuff about it.
CoryDaneRTSIIIL (198.29.191.147)

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Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 4:14 am:   

I was going to give the same link
http://www.imperialrestoration.com/

If you get the catalog, it will show it comes in colors. It dries/cures really hard, sealing the rust from the air/moisture. They say it is a permanent repair. I can say that I tried in on a friends car, it had some really bad rust spots. I did'nt even prepare it properly, just took a putty knife and scraped the loose paint back and painted the POR15 on, next day painted the car color. Did this on about 7 spots on the car. After two years, the rust did not return so I used it on metal on the bus too. so far so good.
hope this helps - cd
Richard Jones (162.117.133.234)

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Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 5:29 am:   

In the past I have used POR-15 on several car restorations. The rust was sealed by POR-15 and then painted over. The application was applied 10 yrs ago. POR-15 is expensive but it does an excellant job in stopping rust from eating away the base metal.

Richard J.
83 MCI-9
Castle Rock, WA
Craig S (65.202.123.254)

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Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 8:40 am:   

I used some stuff like that that also was only temporary. It turned the rust black, then I painted it white, 2 coats. Within 6 months rust was bleeding thru the white paint. Now another 6 months later it looks like I had never done all of that work.

FWIW Craig S
DaveD (216.18.113.69)

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Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 8:56 am:   

POR-15 is ususally available anywhere there is a collectible auto event catering to enthusiasts and restorers.

DaveD
John Rigby (65.112.227.94)

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Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 2:29 pm:   

the best on the market is HAMMERITE made originally in England.Proven in that damp wet salty Island.Now manufactured here.Comes in all colors,just paint it on and the rust turns hard and is back to ther original metal.$38.00/Gallon.
John Rigby
Scott Whitney (24.205.239.4)

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Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 2:49 pm:   

I used some two-part epoxy type stuff from my local commercial paint dealer. They said it is used to treat rusty iron bridges on the East Coast. One kit contains two cans of one-quart parts A & B and costs about $100 (makes two quarts total). It is sort of a translucent green color and cannot be exposed to the sun unless painted over. I used it to treat all my internal framing members. Seems to have stopped all rust in its tracks and sealed the metal.

It is nasty stuff though. You have to mix it very carefully and use special thinner. Also a respirator, goggles, gloves etc. are a must. It has a pot life of about 45 min depending on ambient temp. After that is starts cooking right in the pot and gets hot, hot, hot! You have to mix your leftovers with sand or dirt before that happens or it will self destruct and release noxious fumes right in the pot. Hopefully, you have applied it all and cleaned your sprayer before that happens . . . In other words, don't mix up more that you can use before the pot life expires. . . I don't remember what it is called, but I can look it up.

Scott

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