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John Harrelson (Jharl)
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Username: Jharl

Post Number: 90
Registered: 7-2005
Posted From: 70.13.186.84

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Posted on Thursday, January 17, 2008 - 7:10 pm:   

I’m winter camping and what do you know the crappy pipe froze or is blocked some other way. I do not have a way to put the bus indoors as it is buried in snow. And it will be in the single digits this weekend. The pipe is rubber, and flexible around 3 in diameter. It starts at the drive axel goes towards the tunnel in and out of the tunnel and to the rear most bay. (The pipe is like 30 feet long (only from my perspective, my legs are very crossed) the pipe is about 8 feet, it is rubber with wither a wire running through it or is corrugated but either way it is a tough pipe.

I need to unclog it clear it or what have you.


Thanks

Jack h
John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member
Username: John_mc9

Post Number: 576
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 66.217.106.119

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Posted on Thursday, January 17, 2008 - 7:51 pm:   

We used a few gallons of windshield washer antifreeze with
great success, under a similar situation. But it'd help to have
a construction site type of space heater, to warm the underside...
niles steckbauer (Niles500)
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Username: Niles500

Post Number: 816
Registered: 11-2004
Posted From: 72.91.168.92

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Posted on Thursday, January 17, 2008 - 8:04 pm:   

Steam / boiling hot water / pinch your nose
Sean Welsh (Sean)
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Username: Sean

Post Number: 703
Registered: 1-2003
Posted From: 72.171.0.143

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Posted on Thursday, January 17, 2008 - 8:05 pm:   

Jack,

It's a bit hard to follow your description.

Let's see if I have this right: the waste pipe from your toilet is nearly 8' long and is either clogged or frozen, or maybe both. Is that right?

Probably at issue is the fact that you can't (well, shouldn't) really do a toilet drain that long (or, for that matter, longer than about two feet) unless it goes straight down. If you need to go that kind of distance (as we did when building Odyssey), you'll need to use more advanced technology than the traditional RV toilet, which is intended to drop more-or-less directly into the tank. We went with an air-operated Microphor, which basically shoots the waste to the tank through a 1.5" line under pressure. There is also the VacuFlush system, which achieves the same result with a vacuum, and there are also macerating toilets and other items typically designed for the marine market to get the job done.

As for an interim solution to get you, umm, "going" right now, I would suggest getting out your tea kettle and boiling up some water, then pour that down the drain. If freezing is the issue, that might cure it, temporarily.

If that does not work, you could try blowing hot air into the tunnel or wherever the drain is routed, like from a heat gun.

If heat alone does not solve this, you'll have to go to the good old fashioned plumber's snake, a la "Roto-Rooter" to free the clogged material.

HTH,

-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com
R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member
Username: Chuckllb

Post Number: 218
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 4.240.141.183

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Posted on Thursday, January 17, 2008 - 8:43 pm:   

Sean....you are a Coloradoan, or?...So was I for about 30 years. I always heard, and did COLD water...not hot....to solve such problems. Lived in Almont, Gunnison and Divide ( 9450 feet elevation) in -25 degree Farenheit and just did not have the problems...AS LONG AS heat, like a light, heater or whatever heat source was available (solar blankets are invaluable here) from outside the "tube" and cold water was added slowly to the inside. For day to day, just a heat source from outside was all that was necessary. Takes some ingenuity, tho.

For whatever reason, I am sure you know better than I, hot water seems to freeze faster.

Just my experience.

FWIW
RCB
Ian Giffin (Admin)
Board Administrator
Username: Admin

Post Number: 1053
Registered: 7-1997
Posted From: 24.239.7.250

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Posted on Thursday, January 17, 2008 - 8:45 pm:   

A couple of strategically placed radiant heat bulbs (like in the bathroom at home) might warm it up enough to have a "movement".

This, from a Canadian. Brrr!

Ian
www.busnut.com
John Harrelson (Jharl)
Registered Member
Username: Jharl

Post Number: 92
Registered: 7-2005
Posted From: 70.13.186.84

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Posted on Thursday, January 17, 2008 - 9:01 pm:   

thanks to all for the help, i will see , wait are all of you laughing at me, no that was the dog. i was thinking of heat tape but i can't get to the main part of the pipe as it is in the forward drive wheel well. I think i should go with john mc9's idea and find a diesel heater andshove it inder the bus.

instruction are on the side.
turn on
melt snow bank
wait
melt more snow bank
shove under bus

yup i can do that..

thanks jack
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
Registered Member
Username: Gusc

Post Number: 577
Registered: 11-2005
Posted From: 208.54.200.224

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Posted on Friday, January 18, 2008 - 4:48 pm:   

John,

Like Sean I'm having a hard time picturing your setup but from what I can make of it I recommend;

A small electric heater with thermostat in the tunnel and one in each bay the pipe passes through.

Heat tape and probably some fireproof insulation over the tape in the wheel well. I assume that in the wheel well it passes outside the bus body?

Your long length sewer line is not all that unusual to me. My commode is on the opposite side of the bus from the tank (one tank only). The sewer pipe passes forward into the next bay, then across that bay back into the rearward bay and then into the tank!! It has very little slope anywhere!! And there are two 90* Ls in the line??

According to everything I've read on the forums this won't work, but it does, even on an opposite slanted parking spot??

This thing defies all common sense. It was on the bus when I bought it but works fine.

The only thing I can figure that makes it work is that we always use plenty of water to flush.
john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Registered Member
Username: Chessie4905

Post Number: 841
Registered: 10-2003
Posted From: 71.58.48.5

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Posted on Friday, January 18, 2008 - 5:22 pm:   

I have the commode in mine as the driver's seat. It also has a long line to the tank. Have to worry about it freezing in the winter, but I can drive for a loooong time without a stop.:-). Look for a possible low or sag in the line; that is where it is probably blocked, unless it is blocked with... or debris. Can you get to the end at the tank? If so, you could run a hose with hot water up the pipe. If it wants to bend or kink, put a piece of wire in it to stiffen it. After you are done with the hose, sell it to JohnMC9.
John and Barb Tesser (Bigrigger)
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Username: Bigrigger

Post Number: 50
Registered: 9-2007
Posted From: 24.197.246.104

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Posted on Friday, January 18, 2008 - 6:01 pm:   

Please be careful if your using a "torpedo" type kerosene or diesel heater to thaw under your bus. I had a GMC cabover semi tractor on fire one time with the same set up. They get way too hot for your application. FWIW
Kevin Black (Kblackav8or)
Registered Member
Username: Kblackav8or

Post Number: 93
Registered: 8-2005
Posted From: 24.152.174.198

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Posted on Friday, January 18, 2008 - 9:55 pm:   

What would be wrong with some quality time with a plain old hair dryer. Working back and forth. Some fertilizer mixed with water might work too. Probably any other things that will thaw break up something frozen. Old old electric blanket wrapped around it with some zip ties might also work to get her going.
John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member
Username: John_mc9

Post Number: 578
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 66.217.105.121

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Posted on Saturday, January 19, 2008 - 2:28 am:   

HAR!

"I have the commode in mine as the driver's seat."





(OMG..... He's serious!)
Don Evans (Doninwa)
Registered Member
Username: Doninwa

Post Number: 103
Registered: 1-2007
Posted From: 66.45.165.58

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Posted on Saturday, January 19, 2008 - 3:07 am:   

How about the obvious. Turn up the heat in the coach. Shovel the snow up around the edges to insulate it. Plug in the block heat too. Put electric heaters in the bays. Gentle heat is better than melting something.

Good luck

(Message edited by doninwa on January 19, 2008)
marvin pack (Gomer)
Registered Member
Username: Gomer

Post Number: 187
Registered: 3-2007
Posted From: 76.4.148.149

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Posted on Saturday, January 19, 2008 - 8:51 am:   

my recomendation for your problem is for you to take the piping loose and lay it on the snow bank, start the coach and let it warm up or the gen and turn on the heat for the coach and unhook all the stuff and then GET THE HECK OUT OF THERE AND GO WHERE IT IS WARMER< LIKE FLORIDA. Right guys????
Jack Conrad (Jackconrad)
Registered Member
Username: Jackconrad

Post Number: 721
Registered: 12-2000
Posted From: 76.3.169.171

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Posted on Saturday, January 19, 2008 - 8:55 am:   

GET THE HECK OUT OF THERE AND GO WHERE IT IS WARMER< LIKE FLORIDA. Right guys????
Marvin,
Our policy is "stay south of SR 70 during January". Howver we are going to venture north of SR 70 by about 35-40 miles to attend the Bluegrass Festival at YeeHaww Junction next week. We are taking cold weather clothes. Jack
John Harrelson (Jharl)
Registered Member
Username: Jharl

Post Number: 93
Registered: 7-2005
Posted From: 70.12.50.195

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Posted on Saturday, January 19, 2008 - 10:21 am:   

I did not do the diesel heater thing as I could not locate one. I was afraid I would melt the bus. You can never get all of the melty bus cleaned up anyway.

Wow what a response from every one. I took a 500 watt work light and put it under the driver wheel and pointed it at the pipe to heat it. I was able to get a fish to the first bend. Then I gave up as the temp dropped below freezing again. Thank himself above that I have a five gallon pail. I need to install a driver’s seat as above.

Ok here is the setup again. Driver’s side forward drive axel, above the dual wheels is where the hopper is located. The hose is like some sort of industrial hose is basically in the shape of a “U”. I looked up to see why they did not go straight to the bay where the tank is, it turns out that there is an air compressor tank there. If they went under it would not drain and the wheel would hit it when going over a bump. The pipe goes straight across the dual wheels and into the tunnel.. The pipe continues forward (to the front from the rear) and exits the tunnel about 2 feet or a little more after coming in to the tunnel. And then terminates at the tank in the bay. I know that the hopper end is full and do not what to touch that (no running water just a tap about 200 feet away).

After looking in the tunnel around where the pipe is located, I found what might be the culprit of the freezing problem. There is a large opening in the tunnel where it is open at one end about 3 inches and closes back up after say about a foot to 18 inches going towards the front and the opening is toward the rear. I have photos of this area if you what to see it, just email me. I will try to stuff something in the opening in the tunnel and try a hair dryer in the tunnel. With the tunnel allowing air in like that it would be a waste of time to try and heat it. ( I might stick the dog in there as he was laughing at me earlier in this post.



Jim & Linda Callaghan (Jimc)
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Username: Jimc

Post Number: 49
Registered: 2-2004
Posted From: 70.210.129.169

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Posted on Saturday, January 19, 2008 - 4:51 pm:   

It is hard for me to visualize what your problem is, and exactly where it is at, but if possible you may want to try something that we used to do to get heavy equipment running during the cold.

We used to take the metal lid from a garbage can and spread charcol on the lid and then light it. Once it was going good we would slide it under the vehicle. No flame, just heat.
I don't know if it will work for you or not, you decide if it will damage anything, but it should give you a lot more heat than a hair dryer
Jim
john w. roan (Chessie4905)
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Username: Chessie4905

Post Number: 843
Registered: 10-2003
Posted From: 71.58.48.5

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Posted on Saturday, January 19, 2008 - 5:43 pm:   

Lowes sells a rediheat 55,000 BTU space heater which is just like the ont I have. It won't melt anything as long as you don't get it too close to the source of what you are trying to thaw out. Easy on fuel and nice to have for heating shop spaces or whatever They run pretty clean when up to temp. Have a faint smell like a kerosun type heater. It'll thaw that freeze out pretty quickly if it is liquid that is the blockage.
John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member
Username: John_mc9

Post Number: 580
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 66.217.103.104

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Posted on Saturday, January 19, 2008 - 11:23 pm:   

Re:
"We used to take the metal lid from a garbage can and spread
charcol on the lid and then light it. Once it was going good
we would slide it under the vehicle. No flame, just heat. "


Hey Jharl, can I park my bus next to yours, if you try that? (ins $$$$$$)

Seriously...

That rediheat space heater Roan mentioned, is great to have
around! Not only for a waste pipe freeze, but for frozen
brake lines, skinner valves, and fuel lines!

I wouldn't hesitate dumping a few gallons of W/W antifreeze
down the waste pipe, tho.... You'd be surprised how much
help that cheap blue stuff can be....
Jim Wilke (Jim Bob) (Pd41044039)
Registered Member
Username: Pd41044039

Post Number: 256
Registered: 2-2001
Posted From: 208.6.60.4

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Posted on Sunday, January 20, 2008 - 5:09 pm:   

I have a 35000 BTU propane heater like that Rediheater. No smell but I do have to drag a barbeque tank around with it. It has a 120V fan that needs an extension cord. I use it in the shop but 2 weeks ago had to use it to thaw a frozen water pipe under the house. Got it on the E place pretty cheap.

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