| Author | Message | ||
| Norm Edlebeck (206.10.54.10) Rating: N/A |
I have a MCI-7 with DD 8V71. I will be doing some mountain traveling this year and since I don't have Jake Brakes, have been told not to "Go West Young Man" without them. Have been advised that an after market Jake is not being made anymore for 8-71's, but I should look for a junked engine with Jakes, and check into buying used that way. Any suggestions? Also, approx. how expensive to do this project? Anybody have used Jakes for sale? I'm in Southern Minnesota. | ||
| Jojo Colina (Du1jec) (68.8.172.117)
Rating: N/A |
Go to http://hbindustries.ws | ||
| RJ Long (Rjlong) (24.127.8.58)
Rating: N/A |
Norm - Greyhound ran MC-7s all over the west coast and thru the Rockies without Jake brakes, so it's not impossible. I still don't think they equip their coaches with any type of supplemental braking system, they just train their drivers how to drive in the mountains. Make sure your service brakes are adjusted properly before you leave, drive intelligently, and you shouldn't have any trouble. If in doubt about coming down some of our long 6 & 7% grades, just drop down a gear, and keep your speed w/in a 10 mph window using a stab braking technique. Pay attention to the truck speed limit signs, they're a good guideline. As for Jake brake availability, why not get the info straight from the company? www.jakebrake.com. HTH, RJ PD4106-2784 Fresno CA | ||
| Jim Nelson (166.90.111.60)
Rating: N/A |
All 50 & 60 series Greyhounds are coming with Jakes - not very powerful ones on the 102's due to space constraints, but completely adequate ones on the G4500's. My 2 cents. | ||
| Ed (12.218.204.43)
Rating: N/A |
install an air pressure application gauge first. It tells you how many pounds of air you are applying to the brakes. Make sure your brakes are in adjustment. You should be able to keep your downhill speed under control by application of 15 lbs and less. If it starts taking more the 20 lbs to control your speed it is time to pull over and let brakes cool. Geared down and watching your speed and application pressure you won't have a problem. Jakes are great but if you do not have them you have to adjust your driving. | ||
| peter (200.38.22.28)
Rating: N/A |
Norm- Greyhound did not use them but they also adjust the brakes all the time, flat land or hills. My 8v71 does not have Jakes, they are on my wish list, the very top of the list. Always adjust the brakes frequently; any truck stop that does tie and lube service can do it for you. Better yet, learn to do it yourself.. not a big job and you will be feeling much safer. "Honest Bob" at HB INDUSTRIES > http://hbindustries.ws < gets about $850 for his kit, install could run $300 to 500 or so depending if you need any body modifications. My 4905 needs a popout on the engine lid, the valve cover touches now and the Jake valve cover pops up about 4? more. | ||
| Norm Edlebeck (199.3.9.154) Rating: |
Thanks for the info guys. Since some of you have tackled the mountains without problems by shifting down and having the brakes adjusted up. I think for now I'll put it at the top of my wish list also, and try without them. Thanks again !!! Norm Edlebeck | ||
| Buswarrior (Buswarrior) (64.229.213.99)
Rating: N/A |
Hello Norm. To add and subtract a bit from what's already here: The coach didn't need any more gauges or features than it came with stock to safely carry folks for a million miles plus, provided that the professional behind the wheel, and the fleet manager, knew what was required. Yes, Jakes and application gauges are nice, but not "required" to safely and reliably get down the mountain. One might discuss whether most of us do enough mileage each year to justify the expence. (Good thing this isn't a rational hobby, eh?) Would you ignore your brake adjustment if you had jakes? Of course not. I hope that we all pay proper attention to the adjustment of our brakes regardless of what other features we may or may not have: Jakes, retarders, auto slacks, boat anchors, toads with flat tires.... Sorry to Ed but, as for pulling over to let the brakes cool... Where are these big shoulders that will let me do that safely on the side of a mountain? How would a new driver know that it was required? This is not good advice. By the time an inexperienced driver realizes that they are in trouble, it's usually too late. There'll be smoke pouring out of the wheel wells and the coach won't slow down for them anymore, never mind stop. So what to do? The trick to going down a mountain using just the transmission and brakes is to keep the speed slow enough that you are not having to use the brakes too often to reduce the speed the 5-10 MPH below your target speed, the stab braking method explained above by RJ. If you find that you are right back on the brakes just as soon as you have let it coast again, you're going to fast. Slow down and drop down another gear. More than half the time should be coasting. When you make the brake applications, they should be hard enough to reduce the speed in a few seconds to ensure good relay valve opening. Light application may have fronts doing more and the rears loafing. Heat is the problem with brakes, and heat increases exponentially with speed. The slower you go, lots less heat is made keeping the coach under control. With experience in an old, stock coach, you will learn to appreciate the old timers rule: Go down the mountain in the same gear and speed as it would take to climb it. Doesn't do much good telling a new driver this one without some explanation, since the new driver doesn't know what it takes to go up the mountain either! To go up, steeper the hill, slower the climb, lower the gear. To go down, steeper the hill, slower I want to go, lower the gear. Worked out in the old days pretty close. All bets are off if you have repowered! (The 500 HP crowd only notice they are in the mountains because they are passing stuff even faster than usual!) Old rules apply to old conditions and engines! Let's be sure to put this in perspective: Consequences of going too slow? Consequences of going too fast? Consequences of finding out you're wrong? So, if you are doing less speed than the rest, throw on the four way flashers, ease on down the hillside, enjoy the view, get some experience and have fun! If life is a race, why would you want to finish as fast as you can? happy coaching! competing for last place, buswarrior | ||
| RJ Long (Rjlong) (24.127.8.58)
Rating: N/A |
Well said, Warrior Well said. . . RJ | ||
| Gary Langley (Glang) (152.163.194.208)
Rating: N/A |
I have a Jake on my Prevost 8v92ta. Not overly strong but really saves the brake wear. I use it all the time when slowing down. Highly recommend one if you are mountain running. | ||
| Henry R. Bergman, Jr. (Henryofcj) (63.224.197.10)
Rating: N/A |
Way back in 1970 or soosss I drove an old 1963 Crown 40 foot 3 axle school bus for the Kern High School District in sunny Bakersfield CA. The old 743 inch Cummins 220 had a Jake Brake. The old girl loaded with 60 kids could only climb a long 6 percent grade at around 30 mph. Sometimes slower. However...she could safely come DOWN that same grade at FIFTY MILES PER HOUR riding the Jake. The things actually absorbed much more power than the Cummins produced. Anyway, for mountain driving, a Jake is THE ONLY way to go. You never use your service brakes, they never get hot and the safe control of downhill speed is great!! Thanks. Henry |
