| Author |
Message |
JOHN (205.188.200.136)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2002 - 4:46 pm: | |
WE HAVE A NORCOLD 3 WAY FRIDGE BUT DO NOT HAVE IT HOOKED UP WITH THE PROPANE. WHAT TYPE OF VENTILATION IS NEEDED? AND HOW TO DO IT PROPERLY? ANY AND ALL INFO WOULD BE GREAT THANKS IN ADVANCE.
JOHN |
DaveD (216.18.113.69)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2002 - 4:56 pm: | |
There should be ventilation requirements instructions with the refrigerator, or available by contacting Norcold.
DaveD |
Scott Whitney (24.205.239.4)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2002 - 10:45 pm: | |
Hi John,
Regardless of the heat source, propane flame or electric element, it MUST have proper venting to work well. Ideally, you need to get the exact requirements for the particular model. If you can't find that, you can't hurt by too much venting. Plenty of slats along the back next to the coils and a standard fridge roof vent should provide good convection flow of air.
But may I ask. . . What good is an absorption fridge if it is not being used on propane? Might as well get a house or apartment fridge if you intend to run it on 110VAC all the time. Just my $.02.
Scott |
CoryDaneRTSIIIL (4.17.253.105)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 24, 2002 - 3:27 am: | |
The ventilation is explained in your installation guide from Norcold. Some variations from the manufacturers manual are to vent through the floor, but you need to get the sq inches of vent space right and you still need rear access for maintenance. the roof vent also is of a certain amount and you can only angle the vent from the rear of the frige toward the front going up to the roof so much. the ventilation is critical on these friges. if you do not boon dock, you may not need the propane however the propane is much more efficient than the DC or AC heater. You really need to consider connecting the propane line to the frige for the best efficiency. cd |
FAST FRED (63.215.225.74)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 24, 2002 - 5:53 am: | |
The propane fridges get stuck in loads of sticks & staples RV's where cutting big holes in the structure is not a problem.
In a coach you need to follow their principals , but with a slightly different setup.
If you have a birdcage coach (Eagle) or box on chasis (Skoolie, Barth, Kenworth ect) follow the instructions.
If you have a monocoque like a GM much is the same, concerning the need for an air box to route the exhaust.
The air for the unit can be taken from inside the coach or outside. Inside requires no holes ,BUT the extra vent will have some bit of inside air you paid to heat or cool go out the vent.
You will need to get to the back to clean gas jet and chimney every 6 months or so , plan on it when installing.
You MUST have an outside thru roof vent. If the hole "required" is larger than desired think ofinstalling a Nicro Fico powered vent. These have a tiny solar cell and small bat and will suck the heat out 24/7 if in sun.
They offer little restriction if not powered and will work in moderate (under 90F) to remove the heat.The vents can be powered externally should you boondock under trees for very long times.
The holes required are only 4 in diameter , install just one and see if your unit requires two.
Some of the new RV fridges are huge , and will require more vent.
FAST FRED |
George Myers (12.85.13.4)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 24, 2002 - 8:27 pm: | |
Fred's comment "The air for the unit can be taken from inside the coach or outside." is the first time I have ever heard the inside part of that. Everyone else I have ever read or talked to has said the air must come from the outside and exhaust to the outside. The main reason seems to be that a power vent, or even an unpowered one aimed down wind, would draw air out of the coach that would be replaced by air coming down through the refrigerator's system, pulling carbon monoxide into the coach. Another problem is that if you have a tight coach, air would not enter the coach fast enough to supply the air the refrigerator needs.
George Myers |
John G Root Jr (Johnroot) (140.186.114.253)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 10:11 am: | |
Instead of bringing air in behind the fridge with one of the fridge grills in the side of the bus (4106) could I bring air up from the bay underneath the fridge? Fast Fred how did you do it in your 4106?
John |
FAST FRED (63.208.81.210)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 1:48 pm: | |
Most of the very large propane fridges used in homes only use the house air.
If the unit is vented with a metal chimney , sized as shown in the install insrtructions the chance of a back draught is nill.
Should the unit get some situation where the draught has reversed ( about a billion to one} the unit would stop making cool .
The "Danger" to the coach occupants in this circumstance would be equal to having the pilot light ON in a standard home stove.
The biggest advantage of using internal combustion air is the unit will never blow out.
The down side is your refrigerated air or heated air is also leaving thru the roof vent.
The KEY to having a great instalation is getting RID of all the heat , and the best way to do that is the factory recomended huge hole ,and factory vent or the Nicro Fico solar powered vent.
FAST FRED |
DaveD (216.18.113.69)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 1:59 pm: | |
Generally a propane refrigerator should be installed so that the back side of it, where the burner is located, is sealed from the interior of the coach and outside fresh air is used for the burner. This requirement is for safety and is most likely stated in the installation instructions.
DaveD |
George Myers (12.85.13.238)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 2:20 pm: | |
We are back to the basic question of how does one make decisions. Do you bring the power of your intellect to the problem knowing that Murphies law does not apply to you, or do you learn from the mistakes of others by reading the code and following manufacturers directions.
If you follow Fred's advise, you better have a good CO detector. In fact, two or three would be better. A coach does not have anything approaching the volume of air that a house has to dilute the fumes.
Actually, a good, RV rated, CO detector is essential no matter how you install the refrigerator. So is a good LP detector.
Note: While Fred assures you that there is essentially no chance of fumes coming into the coach, the RV industry pays many extra dollars to seal the refrigerator from the interior.
George Myers |