| Author | Message | ||
| Austin Scott Davis (Zimtok)
Registered Member Username: Zimtok Post Number: 217 Registered: 9-2006 Posted From: 216.37.73.226 Rating: N/A |
I don't see the topic I started just before the forum shut down so I thought I'd start it again. If you remember my 671 engine was not decelerating very fast when I let off the pedal. This of course slowed down my ability to shift up through the gears. WELL,,, The problem turned out to be a simple fix. I took apart the cable end back at the engine and cleaned it up. There was a lot of caked up grease/dirt on the cable and in the "sleeve" area where it passes between the engine and fan. After cleaning the cable/sleeve it is back to "Normal" maybe even a little better. I am thinking about replacing the cable this summer. I have heard that a Morse cable is the way to go. Have any of you done this replacement on a 4104? I will get under the bus to measure it if I have to but if someone here knows the length I need it would save me a dirty job. . | ||
| Douglas Wotring (Tekebird)
Registered Member Username: Tekebird Post Number: 297 Registered: 10-2004 Posted From: 71.59.75.212 Rating: N/A |
how bout a brand new OEM Cable, I got em | ||
| Nathan S. Cornell (Gampyn8)
Registered Member Username: Gampyn8 Post Number: 9 Registered: 10-2007 Posted From: 69.19.14.25 Rating: N/A |
I just had 2 cables made by a place called Baum Hydralics. I had a throttle cable and a shifter cable made for around 60 dollars each. They were both about 32 feet long. I just installed them and they work great. www.baumhydralics.com I talked to Irv Jones ext.1105. They are Morse cables. | ||
| Austin Scott Davis (Zimtok)
Registered Member Username: Zimtok Post Number: 218 Registered: 9-2006 Posted From: 216.37.73.226 Rating: N/A |
Douglas, How much for the OEM cable? Is it just the inner cable or the whole thing? (casing, cable, end sleeves, etc.) Nathan, Was the 32ft cable for the throttle made to fit a 4104? Did it have the correct size ends to fit the stock end couplers? . | ||
| Nathan S. Cornell (Gampyn8)
Registered Member Username: Gampyn8 Post Number: 10 Registered: 10-2007 Posted From: 69.19.14.39 Rating: N/A |
Austin, The cables I got custom made. If you know what length you need,they will make them accordingly. Mine are on an mci. If you have them made you will need to know what travel length you want,and what style clamps on the ends. The part # for mine is 68375-2-420. The first# dictates it is a throttle cable,the 2 is 2 inch travel length and the 420 is the total inches long. Mine was 35 feet long. Mine also had 1/4 by28 ends. The cost was 58.86 plus shipping(4 or 5 bucks). Hope this helps. | ||
| Austin Scott Davis (Zimtok)
Registered Member Username: Zimtok Post Number: 222 Registered: 9-2006 Posted From: 216.37.73.226 Rating: N/A |
Well, the throttle cable problem is temporarily fixed. I was working on the bus and went to start it and the cable broke. It broke about 3-4ft from the engine end right about where the cable makes the bend to go straight to the front. After looking at the broke cable it seems that the cable was just run of the mill cable from a hardware store. they ran it through the original casing and cut it to fit. I talked to the guy we bought it from and he said the cable was replaced by his mechanic about 10-15 years ago. I decided that because I needed the bus that day for a gig and if the old one lasted 15 years I could do the same as his mechanic did and replace the cable with some from the hardware store. I ran some of the old cable back into the casing and used a drill on the cable to clean out the casing where the cable had rusted and broke. (Like a roto rooter drain cleaner) After a little PB Blaster and "Roto Rooting" the cable slid in and out very easy. I blew it out with air and fed the "new" cable in applying grease as I pushed it through. Cut it to fit and clamped the ends to hold it in the ends. IT WORKS GREAT... The pedal was never so easy to push. And the engine decelerates quicker which allows me to shift quicker and smoother. . | ||
| David Evans (Dmd)
Registered Member Username: Dmd Post Number: 222 Registered: 10-2004 Posted From: 71.190.206.103  Rating: N/A |
NICE! bet you kept some spare wire too. | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 220 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 66.90.229.150 Rating: N/A |
fed the "new" cable in applying grease as I pushed it through. I prefer tefflon to regular grease , it doesn't harden in the cold , at least to -50F FF | ||
| Austin Scott Davis (Zimtok)
Registered Member Username: Zimtok Post Number: 223 Registered: 9-2006 Posted From: 216.37.73.226 Rating: N/A |
I used a Mobil-1 synthetic greese. . | ||
| Jim Wilke (Jim Bob) (Pd41044039)
Registered Member Username: Pd41044039 Post Number: 259 Registered: 2-2001 Posted From: 70.88.52.85 Rating: N/A |
Austin, The "right stuff" original spec cable is still available. Keep the piece you took out to measure for a new piece. I think it is less than $50. Does your engine idle slower now? I thought from your you tube films that it was idling too fast which will also contribute to harder shifting. These old girls really run nice when everything is right. Jim-Bob | ||
| Gus Causbie (Gusc)
Registered Member Username: Gusc Post Number: 594 Registered: 11-2005 Posted From: 208.54.200.37  Rating: N/A |
Austin, All us 4104 owners appreciate this string. The part about clamping the new to old cable confuses me. If the cable is inside a casing how did you manage to clamp it? I thought the cable was inside a casing all the way from back to front but your description makes it sound as if the casing is only where the cable makes a turn? If I ever need to do this job I'm tempted to use SS cable to end the problem permanently. At my age that isn't necessary but it will make life easier for the next owner. | ||
| john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Registered Member Username: Chessie4905 Post Number: 888 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 71.58.48.5  Rating: N/A |
Gus, a properly lubed new stock cable should last as long as you own the coach. Just pull and lube it every ten years. The syn grease that they have now will probably make re lubing it again unecessary. Remember how many miles that original cable has gone through before causing any problems. | ||
| Austin Scott Davis (Zimtok)
Registered Member Username: Zimtok Post Number: 226 Registered: 9-2006 Posted From: 216.37.73.226 Rating: N/A |
Jim, Yes the engine decelerates faster now and that makes shifting much smoother/faster. Gus, The cable comes out the end between the forks of the clevis. I looped it once and put a cable clamp on it. I had to R&R the clevis from the linkage a few times to adjust the clamp on the cable to the right place. I'll try to get a photo of the engine end of the cable. | ||
| Gus Causbie (Gusc)
Registered Member Username: Gusc Post Number: 596 Registered: 11-2005 Posted From: 208.54.200.89 Rating: N/A |
Austin, Thanks, I can see my governor end of the cable ok, what I can't envision is the other end that you clamped. | ||
| Austin Scott Davis (Zimtok)
Registered Member Username: Zimtok Post Number: 227 Registered: 9-2006 Posted From: 216.37.73.226 Rating: N/A |
Gus, The clevis on the pedal end is much the same as the engine end. I looped and clamped the end of the cable at the pedal end first because it is so hard to get to once it is in place. I was able to pull enough extra cable out at the pedal end to do it just outside of the compartment door. (I had bought 40ft of cable so I had plenty to work with) I then attached the pedal end clevis to the pedal and installed the return spring on the pedal. I then went to the engine end and proceeded to fit the cable at that end. I cut off the extra and fitted the cable and clamped it. I'll try to get a photo of the final fit and post it here. | ||
| Gus Causbie (Gusc)
Registered Member Username: Gusc Post Number: 598 Registered: 11-2005 Posted From: 208.54.200.157 Rating: N/A |
Austin, Thanks, I get the picture now. I thought you were saying you spliced the cable just to the front of the engine compartment and couldn't figure out how you could to that. I'm still surprised that you were able to thread the cable completely through from front to back given how much crud there must be there after all these years. Maybe I was thinking of the clutch/shifter rods. | ||
| Austin Scott Davis (Zimtok)
Registered Member Username: Zimtok Post Number: 228 Registered: 9-2006 Posted From: 216.37.73.226 Rating: N/A |
Gus, The cable came out very clean. In fact it looked like it had never been greased even when it was installed about 15 years ago. The only bad section of the cable was where it had broke back by the engine. And I cleaned it out using a longer portion of the cable and a drill. Running the drill fwd/rev and pushing the cable in and out cleaned it like a rotor rooter does a drain. I then sprayed PB Blaster in it and blew it out with air from the front. You can see here in the photos how I clamped off the end at the clevis. You can just see the cable comming through the clevis in hte second photo. (I know I need to put a cotter pin in the clevis pin)   | ||
| Gus Causbie (Gusc)
Registered Member Username: Gusc Post Number: 600 Registered: 11-2005 Posted From: 208.54.200.8 Rating: N/A |
Austin, Very clever, I would never have thought of using a clamp. How was it originally held in the clevis? | ||
| Austin Scott Davis (Zimtok)
Registered Member Username: Zimtok Post Number: 229 Registered: 9-2006 Posted From: 216.37.73.226 Rating: N/A |
Gus, There is a "cable lock clamp" just behind where the clevis is threaded on. You can just see it in the first photo. Just behind the clevis jam nut. This would clamp down on the cable inside the casing. I think the original cable must have been a little larger in diameter because my cable did not hold using the original clamp. I can't take full credit for this "backyard mechanic" fix. The cable I took out was done in a similar fashion but not quite as solid as I did. | ||
| Jim Wilke (Jim Bob) (Pd41044039)
Registered Member Username: Pd41044039 Post Number: 264 Registered: 2-2001 Posted From: 208.6.60.4 Rating: N/A |
Austin, The OEM cable center portion looks like a speedometer cable center but larger than a normal speedo cable. The spiral wire wound outer layer is what allows the cable clamp wedge thing to get a perfect grip. Your fix looks good. Have you checked to make sure you get full throttle at governor when a volunteer floors the go pedal? (I didn't have a volunteer so I used a rock. It was the best helper I've ever had. Did just what I asked with no backtalk & didn't drink my beer!) | ||
| Austin Scott Davis (Zimtok)
Registered Member Username: Zimtok Post Number: 230 Registered: 9-2006 Posted From: 216.37.73.226 Rating: N/A |
Jim, I used a video camera to tape the movement of the cable and then viewed it. It is getting full throttle movement. . | ||
| john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Registered Member Username: Chessie4905 Post Number: 892 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 71.58.48.5 Rating: N/A |
It may not be important, but speedometer cable comes in at least three diameters... the large size is about 3 times the diameter of the automotive kind. They use it because it is extremely flexible and is very good at resisting corrosion from dirt and moisture. | ||
| Gus Causbie (Gusc)
Registered Member Username: Gusc Post Number: 601 Registered: 11-2005 Posted From: 208.54.200.38 Rating: N/A |
Austin, Thanks, I assume that the original cable lock can be used if the correct size cable is used. What size did you use? | ||
| Austin Scott Davis (Zimtok)
Registered Member Username: Zimtok Post Number: 231 Registered: 9-2006 Posted From: 216.37.73.226 Rating: N/A |
Gus, The cable I used is 1/8" I'm not sure the size of the original cable because the one i took out was not original. | ||
| Gus Causbie (Gusc)
Registered Member Username: Gusc Post Number: 608 Registered: 11-2005 Posted From: 208.54.200.203 Rating: N/A |
Austin, Thanks. I finally took a look at mine and it appears to be original based on some of the posts I've read. I'll measure it, but it looks larger than 1/8". |