| Author |
Message |
Wandering Wilson (Wilson) (67.202.4.89)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 03, 2002 - 2:55 pm: | |
Does anyone have a good source for info on basement air installtions? Does anyone care to share there experiences with basement air installations. I am considering an overhead duct system. I also would like any input on proper ventilation of the basement unit and suggested installation locations that have worked for you. I am converting a GMC 4905. Thanks in advance for your help. |
Jack Conrad (Jackconrad) (204.193.117.66)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 03, 2002 - 4:25 pm: | |
We installed a basement air that we purchased from RonTheBusNut (www.ronthebusnut.com) in our MC-8. Before purchase, we called him and he sent a copy of the installation manual. This gives all the neccessary specifications. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS!! The biggest problems seem to stem from improper duct size.
We made our ducts using UltraDuct. This is 3/16" thick (1/8" high density closed cell foam with a layer of heavy aluminum foil bonded to each side). It comes in 4'x8' sheets and is easy to work with. The ducts come through the floor from the rear baggage compartment, where the unit is installed, up the wall in the back of a closet. Main supply duct runs almost entire length of bus with 5 8"x8" vents spaced evenly. Return is in hallway (centrally located-front to rear).
The air intake venting for the unit consisted of removing the rub rail on the baggage door, removing skin behind it and replacing with expanded aluminum mesh. The discharge is through the floor below the unit. You can see some photos of the installation at {http://members2.clubphoto.com/jack217421,http://members2.clubphoto.com/jack217421}
We have found that this unit cools our bus easily in the south FL summers. Email me if you need additional info. Jack |
Wandering Wilson (Wilson) (67.202.63.177)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, May 04, 2002 - 8:05 pm: | |
Thanks Jack
That helps alot. I was planning something very similar. I will will probably have more questions as I get closer to installation. thanks again |
R.C.Bishop (128.123.88.28)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, May 05, 2002 - 7:52 pm: | |
Is it possible to use ducting that is rather narrow and wide, so as to maintain the same number of cubic inches of air flowing, in the use of the basement air?.
There is a company called UNICO that provides very small circular, and I believe, rectangular ducting for use in renovation work to keep all ducting between walls in a residence. Most terminations are in a 4 inch (or so) vent.
I have emailed them twice, called once and have received no answeers to my questions yet....but have been on their mailing list of monthly bulletin for over 4 years!!. At one time I had the parts book, but have long since misplaced it.
Anybody out there that uses this product?
RCB |
FAST FRED (63.208.84.162)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 06, 2002 - 5:02 am: | |
The size of the ducting is related to the cap. of the fan mounted on the air moving motor.
Unless your going to install some special high pressure setup , it would be best to follow Da Book.
The area of the duct , if its not wierd , say 1/2in. wide and 4 ft tall , will be as shown in Da Book.
Your system will work best if you use the MAX sized ducting Da Book recomends.
Also your AC will work best if you can pull the return hot air off as close to the top of the living space. (heat rises)
For best results you MUST recycle inside air as the cooling units can only do so much per air pass , so it might take 2 or 3 X thru the cooler to get the temp desired.
Although if its not real hot outside , some outside air can be added to freshin the air.
I have seen folks use all the air delivery foward , to use unit on road , and have curtain a few ft back to keep the air foward.
A circ fan is then needed during daytime to put air in rear bedroom.
At night it works great , the noise is foward , and usually not much refrigeration is needed to keep the entire coach cool.
FAST FRED |
john wood (206.252.234.29)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 06, 2002 - 3:39 pm: | |
Energy Saving Products makes a high velocity air handler for heating (hydronic) and A/C (hydronic or R22) The Main trunk can be as small as 6" and the terminations and branch ducts are 2"
I think this would be a great product, as you cna heat with webasto or engine and use an engine mount compressor on your generator or a separate condensing unit in the basement.
www.hi-velocity.com is the link. I have used the product on residences with good effect and would not hesitate to reccommend it for a bus. |
Carroll (65.83.171.43)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 10, 2002 - 9:37 am: | |
I may be in the wrong place - shrinks office would probably be the place but I just bought a '58 4104 and it has an air conditioner. The unit is underneath in the front and appears to have its on engine. Can someone tell me a little about it. Is it a good altermative to roof ac? Can parts be had for it and does it have to be retrofitted for the new gas? I haven't even driven the bus yet much less try out the ac. This is my first so don't think of me as being too stupid - yet! Give me a little while to prove it.
Thanks |
Peter (209.242.148.130)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 10, 2002 - 9:58 am: | |
Carroll:
The stock air units are monsters, work great, but:
they only work with a running engine
the amount of freon you will need to recharge is HUGE
more suitable to 40 passenger body heat than RV use.
Roof tops run on 110 volts (need a genset or shore power)
good for camping, not great for running down the road unless you don't mind running the genset or want to buy a huge inverter (24v or 12v DC converted to 110v AC)
If the AC works you may want to leave it as is for road use. If it is not working you may wish to consider removing it and using the space for higher uses, and salvage the equipment.
Unless you are in cool country and never plan to be in warm weather get TWO roof tops. You will have lots of heat gain from the sun even if you are in cold air... I am sure you will want air at some point, provide for the 14" x 14" openings and conduit for the power now before you start your conversion.
Peter |
Carroll (65.83.171.43)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 10, 2002 - 10:09 am: | |
Thanks Peter. My original plan was and probably will be to use roof ac. I have an old 30' rv that i'm stripping down and it has one good ac. Is there any resale value to the old unit in the bus? Scrap? I'm excited about getting in to the conversion of this vehicle and look forward to getting advice from you guys. |
RJ Long (Rjlong) (24.127.8.58)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 10, 2002 - 10:49 am: | |
Carroll -
Is this '04 you just purchased still a seated coach?
If so, and there's a monster a/c unit on the driver's side behind the LF wheel, that is the OEM unit. Has lots of capacity, and will run till the (separate) fuel tank goes dry. Main coach engine does NOT have to be running for this unit to operate.
There is really no resale for it, per se, but you might be able to sell it to someone looking for a stand alone at a cabin or something.
HTH,
RJ
PD4106-2784
Fresno CA
PS: Send me the VIN and I'll look it up in my roster to see who originally purchased it from GM. (Remove the "no spam" from the email addy) |
bobm (198.81.17.24)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 10, 2002 - 10:59 am: | |
i use part of the original a/c in my 4104 it has a newer a/c compressor that is driven by a hydraulic motor. hydraulic pump is driven by the generator's 2/53 detroit. i use 134 instead of freon. the original gas tank for the a/c engine is now a spare diesel tank (25 gal) |