| Author |
Message |
Pete (152.163.213.62)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 09, 2002 - 9:27 am: | |
I finallg and getting ready for the new genset..I've heard alot of conversations about a pre insulated unit..or having to make a box for it. Question..If i go and make this box..how do i keep the genset from overheating? I camp far away from elect and water hookups..mostly in feilds and it can get hot as hell. There are a few places where i get real uptight if my generator makes too much noise but i dont want it to overheat..any good ideas?
thanks
Pete |
David Pinson (204.255.95.112)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 09, 2002 - 10:35 am: | |
Contact Wrico for the quietest, smoothest running generator.....and also the coolest running. They suggest the use of 2 squirel-cage fans...one small one to attach to the box enclosing the gen. and a rather large one to circulate air thru the remote radiator......also get the sound-proofing sheets from them to place on the inside of the box. My unit is pretty quiet while running but I am going to put some more sheeting on the outside of the box for more quieting. |
littlewind (65.58.87.163)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 09, 2002 - 12:05 pm: | |
There was a good article on sound reduction in a recent issue of Family Motor Coaching. I can't put my finger on which issue just now.
There are a number of things to be careful of when tightening up a generator bay (that I know of). 1) Engine exhaust is not pulled into the engine intake. This is relatively easy to achieve by piping the exhaust out of the bay. Mine is thru the bay floor, which is the easiest, but I would like to take it up thru the top of the bus for sound reduction and to get the fumes "up there" 2) Engine exhaust is not pulled into the engine cooling air-flow; 3) Air that has been heated from cooling the engine is not re-introduced into the cooling air-flow.
Items 2 & 3 may not be so important to liquid-cooled engines. My air-cooled generator pulls cooling and combustion air from inside the bay which I don't think is a problem. It blows the cooling air toward the expanded-metal bay door. When I tighten up the bay, then I will need to port the heated cooling-air out of the bay, probably thru the floor.
Joe |
OAE Palmer (208.164.102.134)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 09, 2002 - 6:16 pm: | |
Here is my 2centz woyth....
You are using the old A/C bay....think BAFFLES...
pieces of bead stiffened sheet alum. between the Genset and the grill...
NOW...
if you look in the phone book for Johns-Manville insulation products,
you find they make and sell a neoprene rubber sheet called ARMAFLEX.
This product is used to wrap steam boilers and pipes...
it also happens to be the worlds lightest weight sound absorber, you can even buy it with a thin lead sheet facing for greater reductions.
We used it extensively in Polar habitat construction, for mopic camera insulation and impact resistance and for sound deadening.
Comes in various thicknesses, and plain neoprene sheet might be available at you local plastic and rubber supplier.
Armaflex has exellent fire resistant qualities for a rubber product.
Not meant for close proximity to hot exhaust tho. |
Scott Whitney (24.205.238.126)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 09, 2002 - 10:26 pm: | |
For my genset install, I used the quilted fiberglass with lead sheet product from this company:
http://www.soundown.com/
Seems to work well.
Scott |