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Jim Schrecengost (Schrec)
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Username: Schrec

Post Number: 64
Registered: 2-2007
Posted From: 24.2.127.94

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Posted on Wednesday, March 12, 2008 - 8:32 pm:   

If searched thru the old posts and can't find any answers so......... I need a good and secure way to mount my black water tank into my bay. Any ideas? Also my elctric hot water heater. Thanks
Jim
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
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Username: Gusc

Post Number: 618
Registered: 11-2005
Posted From: 208.54.200.136


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Posted on Wednesday, March 12, 2008 - 8:55 pm:   

Jim,

It all depends on your tank and bay setup. You haven't given enough information for anyone to help you very much.

To begin with, try to mount it against a front bulkhead so sudden stops or collisions won't move it.
Jim Schrecengost (Schrec)
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Username: Schrec

Post Number: 65
Registered: 2-2007
Posted From: 24.2.127.94

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Posted on Wednesday, March 12, 2008 - 9:27 pm:   

The tank will be mounted in the very last bay. It is 22 wide and 67 inches long. The way my toilet is situated it will be approx 6 inches from the forward bulkhead of this compartment. How much of a slope can you have in the tiolet sewage pipe? I could move the tank the 6 inches and mount to the bulkead....(there is always something to think about on this thing!!!)

(Message edited by schrec on March 12, 2008)
Jack Hart (Jackhartjr)
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Username: Jackhartjr

Post Number: 14
Registered: 8-2007
Posted From: 205.188.117.73

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Posted on Wednesday, March 12, 2008 - 10:45 pm:   

Jim, I am in no way an expert...however have read most of the posts on this subject.
If the pipe from the toilet is straight down to the tank...PLEASE...leave it that way and find a filler for the six inches in front of the tank that will not break if the tank would happen to slide. I can think of a lot of things, a case to put tools in, spare starters, heads of folks that price fuel, etc.
You can have a sloping pipe from the toilet to the tank...the general thought it to keep it straight. I don't remomber the maximum angle, I do not think it even approached 45-degrees.
Hope that helps.
H3-40 (Ace)
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Username: Ace

Post Number: 783
Registered: 10-2004
Posted From: 216.9.250.38


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Posted on Wednesday, March 12, 2008 - 11:09 pm:   

Jim 6 inches is not enough to worry about. By the time you install a 90 elbow, that alone will allow enough swoosh to keep things moving. I have 2 90's in mine and never a problem! I can send pics if necessary!
Ace
Glenn Williams (Glenn)
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Username: Glenn

Post Number: 146
Registered: 6-2006
Posted From: 216.163.57.205


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Posted on Thursday, March 13, 2008 - 8:43 am:   

Both Jim and Ace are right. Here's an idea if you decide to go for a straight drop and have the gap - box the gap in with plywood and use it to store your sewer dump hose. Good Luck!

Glenn
Kyle Brandt (Kyle4501)
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Username: Kyle4501

Post Number: 400
Registered: 9-2004
Posted From: 65.23.106.193

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Posted on Thursday, March 13, 2008 - 11:05 am:   

The slope you can have depends on how much water is used when you flush.

The toilet in my camper depends on gravity to do most of the work & uses very little water, so it won't work well with a sloped drain. I've only 30 gal black & 2 kids. Yep, it can fill quickly.

I've seen Ace's setup & it works well (even with 2 elbows & a bit of a horizontal run) with the style toilet he's using.

You need to consider all the components that make up the total system since they all need to work together.

Your intended use will help determine the style system that you will be most satisfied with.

Boondocking with limited access to water & dumping.
V.S.
campgrounds with full hookups.

Good luck with it.
H3-40 (Ace)
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Username: Ace

Post Number: 784
Registered: 10-2004
Posted From: 216.9.250.114


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Posted on Thursday, March 13, 2008 - 4:46 pm:   

My toilet uses very little water per flush and even at that, everything flows downward via gravity, and I feel if my system had 2 (which it does) el's or even more, the flow would not be disrupted! All because it's BELOW the starting point and that being the toilet!
So many times I have read here, there, and everywhere that this or that won't work unless you do this or that. Sometimes more than not, mere common sense will prevail and your end result will make you proud!
Remember, it's your money that's building it and not the posters here. True it helps to be re-affirmed but the best thing is use your own judgement. Your there looking at what your dealing with and only yoiu would know what would work best!
Jim Schrecengost (Schrec)
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Username: Schrec

Post Number: 66
Registered: 2-2007
Posted From: 24.2.127.94

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Posted on Thursday, March 13, 2008 - 5:59 pm:   

Thanks to all but................i still don't have any good ideas on how to mount the thing into the bay?? I am going to leave the 6 inch gap to keep the hose (thanks glenn) I have never seen a conversion up close and i don't know the best way to keep this thing were it is supposed to be.
Larry & Lynne Dixon (Larry_d)
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Username: Larry_d

Post Number: 131
Registered: 7-2005
Posted From: 71.117.203.30


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Posted on Thursday, March 13, 2008 - 6:30 pm:   

Jim I am by far an expert but you could use 2X4's screwed to the floor or better yet metal straps and 2x2's on the end, the ride is smooth and not a whole lot of bouncing around. Maybe this will get the experts started. 4905 Larry
H3-40 (Ace)
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Username: Ace

Post Number: 785
Registered: 10-2004
Posted From: 216.9.250.106


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Posted on Thursday, March 13, 2008 - 6:51 pm:   

Jim if your tank is plastic, the best thing to do is box it in using plywood. The plywood will do two things. Keep it from bulging when filled with water and give you something to secure it to using brackets or such to floor or walls! If it's metal, you can fabricate tabs for mounting. Mine is aluminum and hung from the bay ceiling. Although this can't be done, I did and it works fine for me, your options are endless but like most, they use plastic and box them in for reasons stated above!
HTH
Ace
doug yes (Dougg)
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Username: Dougg

Post Number: 44
Registered: 1-2007
Posted From: 75.89.29.117

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Posted on Thursday, March 13, 2008 - 7:29 pm:   

We made two boxes: one for in front of the tank and one for in back of the tank. The boxes are slightly wedge shaped so when shoved in place they create create a tight fit without fasteners. To remove the tank we just have to push one wedge out with a sledge hammer.
Jim Schrecengost (Schrec)
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Username: Schrec

Post Number: 67
Registered: 2-2007
Posted From: 24.2.127.94

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Posted on Thursday, March 13, 2008 - 9:02 pm:   

Thanks Ace, I thought plywood boxes would be somehow not right ( it was my originial idea but i thought for sure it couldn't be that easy) Well another trip to Lowes tomorrow.

Thanks all
Jim
R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
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Username: Chuckllb

Post Number: 244
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 4.240.141.168

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Posted on Thursday, March 13, 2008 - 10:35 pm:   

Blocks front and back on the bottom ...straps over the top, mounted to the floor....at least two.

Been that way in our coach for 7 years on all tanks ;and no problems TTL....:-)

FWIW
RCB
H3-40 (Ace)
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Username: Ace

Post Number: 786
Registered: 10-2004
Posted From: 216.9.250.111


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Posted on Thursday, March 13, 2008 - 10:35 pm:   

Like I said, common sense usually prevails!

Also when doing plywood, it's a good idea to cut a slotted opening going vertical on the end to use as a sight guage! That way you can glance at the tank to see the level! Works better for fresh water for obvious reasons! :-)
Ace
Kyle Brandt (Kyle4501)
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Username: Kyle4501

Post Number: 402
Registered: 9-2004
Posted From: 65.12.100.54

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Posted on Thursday, March 13, 2008 - 10:45 pm:   

You may want to consider putting a sheet of insulation under your tank to minimize freezing problems in cold weather. May not be needed, but worth a thought.
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
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Username: Fast_fred

Post Number: 262
Registered: 10-2006
Posted From: 66.90.229.135

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Posted on Friday, March 14, 2008 - 5:42 am:   

For cold climates there are electric blankets to lay under the tank that will keep it over freezing.Camping world.

The loads are UP as well as fore and aft. I suggest 2 inch angle iron bolted thru the bay floors AND strap material 2 in x 1/8 (3) over the top of the tank to keep it from becoming airborne in a pothole.

Plastic tanks MUST be supported so a 3/4 ply box is necessary. A bottom drain 2 or 3 inch is a good idea in a FW tank, so the water can be dumped easily.

FF
H3-40 (Ace)
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Username: Ace

Post Number: 787
Registered: 10-2004
Posted From: 216.9.250.114


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Posted on Friday, March 14, 2008 - 7:38 am:   

Another inexpensive heater for you guys in the cold is laying a water bed mattress heater under the tanks before installation! Your able to turn it off or on to according to your needs!
Ace

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