| Author |
Message |
Johnny (63.159.176.247)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 22, 2002 - 1:33 am: | |
Would closed-cell foam (like backpackers' use for sleeping pads) insulate well? I'm asking because I can get a bunch of it cheap, & it seems like it would be a pretty good insulator. Thickness would be ~1"; that seems like it would be enough....? |
Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat) (68.7.217.217)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 22, 2002 - 10:11 am: | |
The only consideration appears to be that with anything other than "sprayed" foam, moisture from humidity changes can find it's way in between the walls of your bus and the insulation, and eventually rust things. Other than that, anything that will insulate will work to some degree depending on what "R" value it is.
Foam fixes the moisture problem because it creates an intimate bond to the walls with no air gap... |
Peter Broadribb (Madbrit) (170.215.36.115)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 22, 2002 - 4:24 pm: | |
I am going to use Cellotex board which is available in various thicknesses to aid in following the roof curve. It is a closed cell high R-value foam which is used in home construction.
The original MCI bus insulation is fiberglass bats wrapped in plastic bags and there was no real condensation problem using that system.
The spray in foam does tighten everything up, I am told, but it is only attached to the outer skin and if you need to replace a panel, I bet it is a real pain.
Spray in foam's R-value is also dependant upon the applicator's ability to get it on just right. If applied too thick and heavy, the cells do not form correctly and the R-value suffers. Another problem is that if applied too hot, it can buckle the outer skin through expansion and it can harden before it cools, leaving the skin buckled. So make sure the operatives know exactly what they are doing.
Peter. |
|