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Al Locke (Al4627)
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Registered: 4-2008
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Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2008 - 2:42 pm:   

I noticed somewhere on the internet (don't remember where) that there is a 170 degree thermostat for a 6V92T (in my MCI MC9). I am chasing things to lower my operating temp (especially w/summer coming in TX). Anybody had any experience with that? I have replaced my 50/50 antifreeze to pure distilled water with Hy-PerLube Super Coolant additive. I have studied Fred Hobe's great article. I want to do all the superficial stuff before starting his recomended modifications.
Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
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Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2008 - 3:02 pm:   

Al, have you used the search on this board there is ton of information on cooling a MCI.in what part of Texas are you
Al Locke (Al4627)
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Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2008 - 3:41 pm:   

Located in Stephenville, TX
Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
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Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2008 - 4:00 pm:   

We come thru Stephenville sometime when we go across on I 20 get off on 281 or 8 and go to Copperas Cove to vist the daughter and grandkids Paul Lawry on this board lives at Abiline. good luck on your heating problem but I don't think 170 degree thremostats are going to help that much
john w. roan (Chessie4905)
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Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2008 - 9:33 pm:   

Al, have you had the radiators removed and internally cleaned? Colder thermostats would help a small amount, but if the hill or grade is long enough, it is still going to get just as hot. I'm assuming that you already cleaned the outside surface/ fins on them and shrouds are in place. Oversize injectors from original specs?
Bill Gerrie (Bill_gerrie)
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Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2008 - 10:04 pm:   

Al
The part number for the 170* thermostat is 23503826. I use them is my 6V92TA with the fan locked on and we did a 7000 mile trip last year with no problem through the desert etc. You will find on long climbs the temp will still rise but with a mister on the rad you won't have any problem. If you have shutters on the rad make sure they are open all the time in hot weather. The lower thermostat will just open sooner but your engine will still heat up if the rad can't get rid of the heat fast enough just like John said. Bill
Al Locke (Al4627)
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Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2008 - 10:39 pm:   

John,
Yes, I have had the radiators rotted, cleaned the exterior, etc.

Bill,
Thanks,
I am now just trying to fine tune my cooling and just trying to buy myself a little time on a long climb. I can drive through a long climb, but would like to be able to use more speed on the pull. Of course, never lugging the engine,though. Did you build your misters?
Al
john w. roan (Chessie4905)
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Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 10:28 am:   

Put on the mister system regardless of the other things you do. They WORK! and they are cheap to install and will come in handy sooner or later. Much cheaper than cracking a cylinder head,s. You still want to take care of the other issues though. Is that the original engine configuration that was in it when new?
Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)
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Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 2:20 pm:   

A search on this board or the other board will provide lots of information regarding how to build mister systems and their effectiveness. They do work great!!

Richard
Bill Gerrie (Bill_gerrie)
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Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 3:05 pm:   

Al
I used a 24v valve from Home Depot to turn the system on and off.It works great on 12v as well. That is what I have. All the parts are underground sprinkler system parts. The little sprinkler heads are from the kind that waters individual pots. About 2 for $5. I used 4 of them placed on the outside of the rad so the fan sucks the water over the rad when I turn it on via a switch on the dash. The fresh water system supplies the pressure and water. You only need to spray the rad a few seconds at a time so you don't waste the water. When the rad is hot you can see the temp drop.
Bill
Bill Gerrie (Bill_gerrie)
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Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 3:13 pm:   

Al
Another system that works just as well and is cheaper to build is a couple of plastic pipes in front of the rad instead of the sprinkler heads. You cap the ends and drill a series of 1/16th " holes in them. You feed the water to them in the same way as the other system from the fresh water supply.
Bill
Al Locke (Al4627)
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Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 8:15 pm:   

John,
Yes, this is the original configuration 6v92T/MC9/740 Allison.
Bill,
Thanks a lot for the mister advice! What did you use for the water reservoir?
Al
john w. roan (Chessie4905)
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Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 10:08 pm:   

If the injectors were increased for more output, the engine will create more heat along with the increased power, possibly more than the radiators were designed to handle in some driving conditions.
Bill Gerrie (Bill_gerrie)
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Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 11:58 pm:   

Al
Your fresh water system is the only water you need to run the misters. Just "T" into a cold water line near the rear and always leave your fresh water pump on. Press the switch on the dash when you need extra cooling and the valve will open and spray the rad.
Bill
Chris Peters (Chris_85_rts)
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Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 5:24 pm:   

FYI, stock 180 degree thermostats OPEN at 180 degrees, but are not FULLY open until 198 degrees. This is in the manual. At full throttle my bus in FL run at 200 degrees. I am likely going to switch to 170 or maybe even 160 stats.

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