| Author | Message | ||
| L James Jones Jr (Jamo)
Registered Member Username: Jamo Post Number: 41 Registered: 11-2007 Posted From: 74.79.238.13  Rating: N/A |
I'm about to start cleaning up all the loose ends and spliced wires around the engine compartment as well as other wiring. All 12v stuff, some interior lighting, some external lighting...mostly on or around the engine door. What gauge should I be using? I plan on stranded, single conductor auto type wiring. Should I solder and shrink wrap all connections? Are any/all of those plug type connectors an open (corroded) circuit waiting to happen? On my Harleys, I solder & shrink wrap everything. Plenty of vibration there and no failures since the rebuild of my '76 about 8 years ago. Thanks Folks.... | ||
| Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Registered Member Username: Buswarrior Post Number: 1258 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 76.66.17.97  Rating: N/A |
Hello Jamo. I am a fan of solder and heat shrink tube. Second comes the newer style crimp-ons with the heat shrink built on the connector Takes a little longer, but in exposed areas, you get the payback in not having to redo it as often. On small trailers, especially boat trailers that get dipped, and snowmobile trailers running on salted roads, I'm not participating in a wiring issue unless fresh wire and solder is being planned. happy coaching! buswarrior | ||
| john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Registered Member Username: Chessie4905 Post Number: 1032 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 71.58.48.5  Rating: N/A |
Solder and shrink wrap it all. On butt connections, I double layer the shrink wrap, using a longer piece for the second layer. The inside of engine compartment gets a lot of dirt and moisture/ corrosion, esp. if you ever run yours in the salt. You might want to put in a plug for removing the tailgate if the original one is gone. Don't be afraid of adding some bright lights in there also. Those old fashion beehive lens clearance lights work well and are inexpensive. Get clear lenses for them. I'd use stranded 12 gauge,although 14 gauge should be ok too. I prefer to err on the heavier side. You can get this in THHN which has a clear tough abrasion resistant covering. Lowes and HD carry it. You could use a couple of different colors for the different lights if you would like. And add wiring for a hitch if you don't already have it. Some may have concerns about the coarser strands failing over time. Fine strand marine wire is nice if you can easily obtain it. THHN is reasonable and if properly secured, should last as long as you keep the coach. Just don't make the bend up at the hinge area real tight. OK, I'm going for some popcorn. | ||
| L James Jones Jr (Jamo)
Registered Member Username: Jamo Post Number: 42 Registered: 11-2007 Posted From: 74.79.238.13 Rating: N/A |
Thanks for the info, guys... I did pick up the 12g THHN and several pcs of shrink wrap. The engine bay was such a mess, I ended up degreasing and scrubbing her up last night until the temp got down in the mid 40's. Now I can see wire colors!! Another question: where is the best grounding spot for the rear lighting? I have everything from wires rivetted to the cradle down tubes and even band clamps with gd wires on those tubes...which have ample paint between! And another: would I be better off going to LED's for tail/stop/signal lights?? My OEM's are OK, just not very bright. Correct grounding may help though?? Thanks again... Jamo | ||
| joe padberg (Joemc7ab)
Registered Member Username: Joemc7ab Post Number: 234 Registered: 6-2004 Posted From: 66.38.159.33 Rating: N/A |
Jamo LED's is the way to go, if you are doing any renewing. Joe. |