| Author | Message | ||
| Joe (Frtnkr)
Registered Member Username: Frtnkr Post Number: 49 Registered: 6-2006 Posted From: 75.139.7.183 Rating: N/A |
Hello everyone, I have an oil leak that I need to fix before I go down to Charleston, SC late next week. We are talking about a 6V71 Detroit on an '87 Flex Metro. I have pinpointed the source of the leak by cleaning the oil off the engine and other related parts, removing the fan to prevent it from blowing oil all over the place, and starting the bus and watching for the leak. Sure enough, it is coming from the fan drive/torus/clutch. More specifically, it is coming from in between the Fan Hub (see link below) and the Bearing Retainer. My guess is that the Fan Hub Oil Seal is worn out or dry cracked, however I have no experience working with this type of fan drive, so I wanted to get a few more opinions on this problem before I go tearing into it. Also, I have posted a parts list and blow up below because I have not been able to find any rebuild parts for this unit. Detroit says it's a bus part and they can't help. Nimco has a running take out for $350, but I would rather not spend that kind of money unless I have to. So if any of you know where I could find parts please let me know, Sammy said there may be a guy named Luke that may be able to help me, anyone know him? Also, if anyone has any tips or advice for working on this fan drive I would love to hear them. http://img133.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=20683_fanblowup_122_929lo.jpg http://img145.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=20685_faninstructions_122_863lo.jpg http://img239.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=20693_fancrosssection_122_551lo.jpg http://img202.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=20695_fanpartsblowup_122_147lo.jpg http://img200.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=20696_fanpartslist_122_15lo.jpg Thanks, Joe | ||
| john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Registered Member Username: Chessie4905 Post Number: 1140 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 71.58.48.228  Rating: |
Not familiar with that design, the GM units look more like a torque converter. Is it leaking at oil seal #4? If so, you can get the number off it and cross reference it or you can measure id. od, and depth and get one from Bearings inc. or most auto parts stores, at least Napa, can cross over dimensions. Those older days items usually had seals that are easily replaced and had fairly std. dimensions.If it is leaking on the inner end, you should be able to find suitable o-rings to fit- try McMaster-Carr; maybe they also list a seal in the required dimensions. The o-rings may require a trial and error to get the proper fit. The gaskets you can make. The seal wear ring would probably have to be made, however you could fill the worn in groove with JB weld and sand smooth. The bearing may be loose and contributing to the leak. Should have a number on it or match using dimensions.Doesn't look too bad to repair rebuild since you don't need to use shims to set bearing load. | ||
| Dan West (Utahclaimjumper)
Registered Member Username: Utahclaimjumper Post Number: 92 Registered: 1-2005 Posted From: 208.66.38.60 Rating: N/A |
Joe, I just replaced the same seal on my 8V71, with the fan removed, remove the two bolts holding the fan flange to the shaft, slide flange from shaft, replace seal (availiable at NAPA stores, assemble in reverse. Very easy to do.>>>Dan | ||
| Douglas Wotring (Tekebird)
Registered Member Username: Tekebird Post Number: 344 Registered: 10-2004 Posted From: 71.59.75.212 Rating: N/A |
US coach in Vineland, NJ all those pa[rts should be available. | ||
| Joe (Frtnkr)
Registered Member Username: Frtnkr Post Number: 51 Registered: 6-2006 Posted From: 75.139.7.183 Rating: N/A |
John, Dan, and Doug, thanks for the input, the first time I open something up I like to know what I am getting into. My friends and I were hoping that these parts were somewhat universal, I'll get it appart tomorrow afternoon and let you all know what we find out. | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 344 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 208.100.193.1 Rating: N/A |
Its really EZ to fix for two reasons. The seal riding surface is in the part you pull out , and the kit (from LUKE) had a driver ring to install the new surface. The seal it self simply prys out anf you carefully tap a new on in. An hour , even learning how to do it for the first time. Forget the price but think $30-$40 or so. FF (Message edited by fast_fred on May 21, 2008) | ||
| Joe (Frtnkr)
Registered Member Username: Frtnkr Post Number: 52 Registered: 6-2006 Posted From: 75.139.7.183 Rating: N/A |
Let me get this straight...I removed the two screws and the fan hub washer, do I need to pull the fan hub (3) to get at the seal, or is the seal accessable from the front of the fan hub? If I do need to remove the fan hub should I use a gear puller? It does not want to just slide off the shaft as it is and I don't want to bend it by prying it off with a bar. | ||
| john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Registered Member Username: Chessie4905 Post Number: 1142 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 71.58.48.228 Rating: N/A |
The fan hub needs to be removed with a puller most likely, you could try tapping on the back side with a BRASS or LEAD hammer; you don't want to bogger up the flange.The seal is right behind it. If you look at the first illustration you can see the woodruff key.It keeps the hub from spinning on the shaft. Be careful not to lose it. It may be tight on shaft and not fall out, but just keep an eye on it.Be sure to check surface that seal rides on for a bad groove. If it is grooved bad enough, the new seal might start leaking in a few short miles again. Try to use some kind of seal installer if you can or a big socket to help make sure you don't cock or bend metal edge.You might want to use locktite on bolts on reassembly. | ||
| Sammy (Sammy)
Registered Member Username: Sammy Post Number: 81 Registered: 8-2005 Posted From: 68.237.192.11 Rating: N/A |
Joe, here's some contact info for Luke's place: US Coach and Equipment Sales 3366 N.Mill Rd. Vineland, NJ 08360 856-794-3104 Thanks to Nick B. for his posting of this info on the MAK board.Good luck with your repair. | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 347 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 208.100.193.223 Rating: N/A |
"Be sure to check surface that seal rides on for a bad groove. If it is grooved bad enough, the new seal might start leaking in a few short miles again." The point is this seal bearing surface would be a real bear to replace IF it were on the engine itself. Instead the seal is on the engine , where a screwdriver will easily pry it out and a gentle tap touch will replace it. The worn seal bearing surface is OUT where a hammer and punch will remove it and the new surface and the drive ring to install it are in the repair kit. Coach US phone , 888.COACH34 FF | ||
| Joe (Frtnkr)
Registered Member Username: Frtnkr Post Number: 53 Registered: 6-2006 Posted From: 75.139.7.183 Rating: N/A |
I borrowed a gear puller and got the hub off. Then I removed the bearing retainer so I could take it inside to the bench and tap the grease seal out. Napa will have the seal for me tomorrow morning and I am going to get a o-ring from the local hydrolics shop. I just got finished making a new bearing retainer gasket that looks pretty close to factory. All the bearing surfaces look smooth, but I cleaned everything off with break clean and a brass brush. I'll let you all know how it goes back together. Do you think I should loctite the six bolts that hold the bearing retainer on? The two allen screws that hold the fan hub washer on are like crown bolts, that have a wire going through them to keep them together, I don't think they need loctite, do they? Thanks again...Joe | ||
| john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Registered Member Username: Chessie4905 Post Number: 1147 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 71.58.48.228 Rating: N/A |
No loctite if you reinstall wire through them. | ||
| Larry Higuera (Larryh)
Registered Member Username: Larryh Post Number: 29 Registered: 6-2006 Posted From: 148.78.52.146 Rating: N/A |
if you just want the seal use SKF 22448 just put in my 8V71 Larry |
