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R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member
Username: Chuckllb

Post Number: 302
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 4.240.141.142

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Posted on Saturday, June 07, 2008 - 10:57 am:   

I have a new household Maytag 11 CF fridge which I messed up big time. :-(

Long story short, I drilled a hole, very close to the front edge of the top (by the screw pattern for changing the door, on the left side) to fasten a clamp. (to keep the door from opening while moving -- 1/4 inch screw) Figgered there would be nothing but air in that spot...WRONG! :-(

Punctured a line :-( No more freon.:-( . Local fix-it wants $130 to take apart, braze and refill.

Question: can anyone give me an idea how I can access the guts without tearing up the thing? most probably can " do it myself" ...if I just knew the trick :-) (Maytag won't tell me :-( )

Thanx in advance. (I hope)...:-) :-) :-)

RCB
Nick Badame Refrigeration Co. (Dnick85)
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Username: Dnick85

Post Number: 225
Registered: 2-2006
Posted From: 76.124.92.192


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Posted on Saturday, June 07, 2008 - 11:39 am:   

R.C.,

Sorry to hear that! A can opener is the silly answer..

If your local guy gave you that price, jump on it because there is alot of work involved do do it properly.

First, expose the hole, braze the hole, leak test it, evacuate and dehydrate the system of any moisture, scale in the proper weight og refrigerant, then releak test. After all that, say a hale Mary that he removed all and any humidity/moistuer that may have went in. The refrigerant has to atomize in a very small capalary tube that is usually 6" to 15' long.
The longer the hole is open, the more chance you will have to contaminate the system.

Good Luck with it
Nick-
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
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Username: Fast_fred

Post Number: 368
Registered: 10-2006
Posted From: 208.100.193.40

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Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2008 - 9:58 am:   

While there is a real fridge guy here I have a question too.

Our project FLX VL came with a Norcold RV unit about 5 or 6 years old..

It crapped our the compressor at least 3 times under warentee, but I know the reason.

The prev owner hooked the DC side up with #14 wires for a 30 ft round trip!

To add insult to injury he would operate it at a campsite from an inverter that is clearly labeled , "RESISTANCE LOADS ONLY".

Unfortuniatly he took the unit in for service , so no tech ever saw the horrific installation.

The unit needless to say looks like new , so I figure 3 options.

1. buy a new Techumsa package and install that , at a local cost of about $250 for the system (yes I can install it)but I don't know if it was setup for R12 or something newer.

It will run from a Trace underway or boondockin (rare) so electric to it should be fine.

Interestingly I can get a complete brand new 120v fridge / freezer from any box store , for the same $250, but they don't have RV door locks , and a bit of carving will be needed too install it.

3rd choice and down on the list is a fine NOS SS unit with 2 12v Danfloss compressors .Much More carving would be required , but the bride loves the bottom freezer , tho its not a drawer so she would have to limbo to find stuff.

These were built for sports fishing guys that wanted plenty of beverages up top EZ to get to, and simply tossed the cleaned fish into the freezer to get it home.

This is $500 , so a bit pricy for an "all electric" coach that doesn't boondock very much.

What did I miss ,( besides finding a takeout fridge from a neighbor that is upgrading and using that as a source)?

Suggestions?

FF
Ed Roelle (Ed_roelle)
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Username: Ed_roelle

Post Number: 56
Registered: 3-2005
Posted From: 98.209.249.151

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Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2008 - 12:01 pm:   

I am sure this will not make you feel any better R.C.Bishop. But, a fellow bus nut, Don Clark, did EXACTLY the same thing. He replaced the refrigerator.

Ed Roelle
Flint, MI
Nick Badame Refrigeration Co. (Dnick85)
Registered Member
Username: Dnick85

Post Number: 226
Registered: 2-2006
Posted From: 76.124.92.192


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Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2008 - 1:42 pm:   

Hi FF,

This is what I would do.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=112421-2251-TRT15L2JW&lpage= none

Good Luck
Nick-
James Stacy (Jimstacy)
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Username: Jimstacy

Post Number: 136
Registered: 1-2001
Posted From: 75.41.17.206

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Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2008 - 9:19 pm:   

Hi FF,

I need a little help here. I am picturing a common Norcold RV frig which has heating elements powered by 120 VAC or propane. Years ago they were also available with a 12 VDC heating element but these were very low heat output and not suitable for other than slowing the warming of an all ready cold frig until you could get to the nearest campground. Folks who tried to use the 12 VDC as a primary system were very disappointed.

Thes RV units were absorbtion systems and did not have a compressor or any other moving part. Even the 2 way propane/120 VAC systems used 12VDC to operate the circuit board controller, but this was a low current load easily handled by 14 gauge wire. If it were in fact a 3 way frig it should have 8 to 10 gauge 12 volt supply.

Does this unit have a front control board with lights to indicate function? E mail me directly if I can be of help.

Jim Stacy
Nick Badame Refrigeration Co. (Dnick85)
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Username: Dnick85

Post Number: 227
Registered: 2-2006
Posted From: 75.198.41.131


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Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2008 - 9:24 pm:   

Hi James,

I think FF has a marine type Norcold that came with either 115v hermetic compressors or 12v dc hermetic compressors.
These are not absorbtion types.

Nick-

(Message edited by dnick85 on June 08, 2008)
James Stacy (Jimstacy)
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Username: Jimstacy

Post Number: 138
Registered: 1-2001
Posted From: 75.41.17.206

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Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2008 - 9:58 pm:   

Nick,

You could very well be right, knowing Fred's long time affinity for watercraft. The FLX VL reference kind of led me astray. Thanks.

Jim Stacy
William Sloan (Ole_timer)
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Username: Ole_timer

Post Number: 16
Registered: 9-2006
Posted From: 75.134.163.198

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Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2008 - 11:43 pm:   

I have a Norcold 12 volt ,115 volt.It has a 27 volt DC swing motor.115ac is converted to 27 volts DC and 12DC is stepped up to 27 volts DC It works better on 115ac so I leave it on 115ac all the time.I have a Trace inverter.Its been in the 04 for 20years and never one problem.The swing motor works the compressor. Don`t ask me what a swing motor is , I don`t know.
Old Bill
joe padberg (Joemc7ab)
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Username: Joemc7ab

Post Number: 270
Registered: 6-2004
Posted From: 66.38.159.33

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Posted on Monday, June 09, 2008 - 12:25 am:   

Fred
I Will make you a deal you cant refuse!!
I have a DE728 norcold good working condition, except should have a new door seal that you can have for free. Only stipulation is you have to come and get it.
I will look for the answer in a day or two on the other side of the big pond.

Joe.
joe padberg (Joemc7ab)
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Username: Joemc7ab

Post Number: 271
Registered: 6-2004
Posted From: 66.38.159.33

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Posted on Monday, June 09, 2008 - 12:28 am:   

Chuck

Check your local bargain finder or equivalent, there should be lots of useable used stuff out there.

Joe.
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member
Username: Fast_fred

Post Number: 370
Registered: 10-2006
Posted From: 208.100.193.203

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Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2008 - 6:42 am:   

I have a Norcold 12 volt ,115 volt.It has a 27 volt DC swing motor.115ac is converted to 27 volts DC and 12DC is stepped up to 27 volts DC It works better on 115ac so I leave it on 115ac all the time.I have a Trace inverter.Its been in the 04 for 20y


If thats how Norcold configured them 7 or so years ago, thats what I have.

Plan B (nicks plan ) of just getting a house cheapo is the simplest , but If I can figure out the refrigerant used in the Norcold , I will look for a running toss away here in ri$h CT.

As an example of how $$$ CT is on a tag sale day we purchased a 20 in Sony Trinitronic for $20.

Sounded like a good deal till a few houses away we picked up a 27 inch Sony (4 years old) for $15!

The flat screens are now PC so the locals toss their last toy.

Hopefully some bride will need a SS fridge and heave the white monster.

FF
R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member
Username: Chuckllb

Post Number: 304
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 4.240.213.15

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Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2008 - 1:49 pm:   

Thanx to alll for the (S)empathy...and the information.
Nick...me thinks I'm not that kinda fix-it man; will leave it where you suggested..:-(:-). Just hate to buy another new one.

RCB

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