| Author | Message | ||
| Peter Broadribb (Madbrit) (216.67.216.86)
Rating: N/A |
Guys, I borrowed my friends Winniebuggy last week and most of the idiot lights for the tanks on the command panel don't read correctly. Is there anything that can be put in both the black and grey and also the fresh water tanks to clean the sensor contacts? Thanks. Peter. | ||
| Rodger Manecke (Rodger) (65.239.11.15)
Rating: N/A |
I haven't tried it but some RVers recommend dumping a few bags of ice cubes, via the toilet, into a partly filled black tank, then driving around. The ice cubes are supposed to scrub the debris off the sensors. As for the gray tank, maybe the sensors can be pulled out and cleaned? Good luck | ||
| Jayjay (65.134.221.8) Rating: N/A |
Chlorine bleach, liquid laundry detergent,3/4 tank of water and go for a drive. Use the cheap stuff from the discount store, and put plenty of each, i.e. for 50 gal. tanks use 2 gal of bleach, and 1/2 gal. of soap for 30 to 35 gal of water. (you want it to slop around) Could the Electric equip be defective? ...JJ | ||
| Dale Fleener (64.66.215.228)
Rating: N/A |
Driving around is probably the best action you could take. There are differances of opinion as to what should be in the tank when you do. I have used plain ole baking soda with success. Usually the sensors are permanent, but a well nut installed right next to them is a new sensor. | ||
| Scott Whitney (24.205.234.60) Rating: N/A |
This is sort of off topic, but. . . I've been trying to keep my tanks au natural. Doesn't putting bleach in there kill all the anarobic (sp?) bacteria that keep it decomposing? Or can you rinse the bleach/soap out and start a new culture without contaminating the tank? Scott | ||
| Peter Broadribb (Madbrit) (170.215.36.41)
Rating: N/A |
Scott, this is why there is this problem. He never used any chemical to break down the black tank contents and one can see the deposits on the tank looking down through the potty trap. He lived on a trailer park for sometime and so there was little or no movement to the black water. Thanks guys for the help, I will try the remedies and see how we get on. Peter. | ||
| Quest (4.17.253.107) Rating: N/A |
that strong a mix of chlorine in the black tank will raise hell when comes time to dump. It destroys the bacteria at the dump station and costs a bunch to get rid of it. If they catch you dumping it, they will fine you. This is part reason why some of the dump stations have been closed, because of improper use by rec vehicle owners. The only thing that should go in there are mild chemicals intended to break the solids down. Chlorine is not one of these chemicals. | ||
| Scott Whitney (24.205.234.60) Rating: N/A |
Possible damage depends on what kind of sewage treatment center it is, right? The chlorine will kill a spetic system, but for a traditional municipal water system I would think it is ok. I put bleach in the toilet all the time at the house. (on city sewage) But my questions is if the residual bleach left in a black tank is enough to cause havoc on the next tank of usage. In other words, can a bleach treatment be used on a black tank as an infrequent maintantence routine w/o altering the chemistry of subsequent uses? For example, I know when I dump black, I probably only remove about 95% of the liquid. I then flush grey into black and back out again, but some of the original fluid will always remain in trace amounts. Would that trace amount of bleach spoil the next batch? Scott | ||
| FAST FRED (63.208.80.128) Rating: N/A |
If you worry that you havent eaten/ cycled enough septic starter , just get a supply of starter at your friendly Home Depot. Normally its not needed , but if you poison the tank , a resupply after a flush will be needed. The poison perfume from the RV store is NOT the way to have the contents not stink, as they will not break down. A good thru the roof vent , and natural operation of the bacteria works best. To NOT have an aroma when a foward window is open at speed , all that is needed is for the water traps in the bowl, bowl overflow , sinks ,shower and perhaps in the dishwasher& washing machine to function. FAST FRED | ||
| Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat) (68.7.217.217)
Rating: N/A |
Speaking of aromas, I put a nicro solar powered ventilator right on the top of my vent pipe, so it creates a mild vacuum in the system. I purposely don't trap my shower, so now what I have is a constantly circulating vent system (air goes in to the shower drain and out the top of the bus) that always has a little vacuum on it even when I'm driving. When someone uses the pottie and opens the nasty little hole to get rid of the job, air always goes "in" to the hole instead of out. I've never smelled anything since the day I installed it all.. Cheers Gary Stadler | ||
| Scott Whitney (24.205.232.201) Rating: N/A |
Hi Gary, That is a good idea with the powered vent. I've already trapped my shower, but I wonder if it would still work to help keep a vaccum in the vent line, like when toilet is flushed. BTW, where did you put the black tank on your Crown? Over on the MAK board, Henry of CJ is trying to figure out where to put the black tank on his Crown supercoach in a thread called, 'Head Room' and then 'Macerator Pump in a Crown Coach'. Maybe you have some ideas for him? Scott | ||
| Jayjay (65.134.220.94) Rating: N/A |
Whoa troops, don't yell too loudly about the chlorine treatment. That is a one-time, shock-treatment, to clear a build-up problem. It is not a maintenance method. Also, I wonder if the bio products pushed by the camping sales folks are effective, since biological break-down of solids doesn't occur for at least four or five days. If you read the label, most of the products are nothing more than an inexpensive, biodegradable soap. Any experts out there? Bleach, in moderate quantities, should not hurt a septic tank system. Daily, millions of people dump their bleach-laden laundry water into them, with no ill effects. The tank (combined black/grey)in my 4905 is translucent and is still clear after two years of constant usage. Perhaps that is the key, to not let it sit while full. ...JJ | ||
| Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat) (68.7.217.217)
Rating: N/A |
Scott, it will probably work fine with just a vacuum in the line. At least when you flush there will always be airflow in the correct direction and that's what's important. Keeping air circulating in the grey tank is just a freebie bonus but not necessary. For ample space for grey and black tanks, the key is moving the muffler and exhaust system first. I did this: I got rid of the origional muffler and put one that has the inlet and outlet on the same end, located right near the engine. The exhaust now exits just in front of the rear wheel on drivers' side. Here's a pic: http://www.heartmagic.com/zzTheRealExhaust.JPG Now the whole underside rear of the bus from the wheels back is availiable for tanks galore. I then put two 40 gallon tanks back to back under the drivers' side rear, right where Mr. Muffler used to waste space...the one closest to the wheel is the black with the pottie dropping right into it, and the one behind it is the grey. Photo (old, before the pipes were installed): http://www.heartmagic.com/zzPoohTanks.JPG Then I put an 85 gallon "transfer" tank right in the middle between the frame members that I pump either the black or grey into if they get full, with a macerator pump. Diagram: http://www.heartmagic.com/zzPOOplumbing.jpg This way I can transfer any tank's contents to the 85 gal, drain any of them via the stinky slinky, or pump any of them away via the macerator. The rear pass. side is still open and big enough for another 100 gallons of diesel if i ever want to, and there's still more room free at the very rear. If you think it out, Crowns have tons of spare room... Cheers Gary Stadler | ||
| Scott Whitney (24.205.237.165) Rating: N/A |
Hi Gary, Thanks for the info! Pretty cool system that should give you loads of flexibility. I re-posted your description over on the MAK board for Henry. Scott | ||
| R.C.Bishop (128.123.88.50)
Rating: N/A |
Gary, I agree about the room UNDER the floor of the Crowns....to the rear, if things are moved around a bit amidships. I have a 10 wheeler, considerably different than yours, apparently, but above the floor is where I thought Henry wanted to put his tanks, as do I. Freeze problems might diminish, somewhat. Thanx for the pics and the info. Gives me a couple of ideas for additional battery space ( mine are located where your muffler apparently was). RCB | ||
| Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat) (68.7.217.217)
Rating: N/A |
RCB, All of my water supply tanks are in the back living space, under the bed. 150 gallons worth. Takes the same space as a box-spring would have, and leaves room for the pump and a propane water heater too! Neat how the weight distribution goes, the water just moves down into the holding tanks as I use it but not forward or backwards on the bus! My battery bank is going to hang in the center of the bus right over the engine...if I remove the interior access hatch, there's ample space and structure for at least 6 batteries plus removable (hanging) mounting racks and plastic drain sheets in case something spills. There's another similar space over the tranny but I don't think I will need it... Cheers! Gary | ||
| R.C.Bishop (128.123.88.6)
Rating: N/A |
Gary, more food for thought, but I'm not sure I want to do the same, though, as you suggest, plenty of room. Will need to cogitate on that one. I also plan FW under the bed, but doubt I'll be able to accommodate 150 gallons worth. Our wheel wells are above the floor about 6 inches and so the stool must move to at least the space between wheels. Plenty of room, but a cross member under the floor in that location pretty much precludes dumping into a lower space. We posted a heading here and on MAK about "head room" seeking ideas about a marine type stool pumping into a forward, above the floor, tank. Some good answers including a couple of FF ideas. Crowns,(mine) are a challenge.  Thanx for the response. RCB | ||
| Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat) (68.7.217.217)
Rating: N/A |
RCB, Here's a diagram of how mine all goes together... http://www.heartmagic.com/zzbuslayout.jpg Since I raised the roof a foot, I got a shower pan with the drain in the corner and centered the shower right over the back wheelwell. Easy to plumb because the well is at floor level in the corner...Plenty of headroom in the shower because of the roof raise. The pottie is right behind the shower and dumps directly into the black tank. The grey tank is behind that. Three 50 gallon tanks from ronthebusnut for 50 bucks each make up the fresh water storage and the bed goes over them. It all fits nicely with no crowding and plenty of accessability... Cheers Gary | ||
| RCBishop (128.123.88.15)
Rating: N/A |
Gary, no such luxury here, but it looks like a workable thing on your bus. Keep us posted. RCB |