| Author | Message | ||
| c.w Van Hagen (Van)
Registered Member Username: Van Post Number: 48 Registered: 7-2008 Posted From: 72.193.19.183  Rating: N/A |
how do you determine the cause? | ||
| JR Lynch (Njt5047)
Registered Member Username: Njt5047 Post Number: 258 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 69.132.233.230 Rating: |
Consider the aftercooler if the engine is running on all cylinders. Compare all six cylinders. You may see a side-to-side, or same-side temp variation. Noticeably cooler cylinders are probably near the leaks origination. The following method isn't totally definitive, but it may get you zeroed in on the affected cylinders. If the engine has a miss, use an IR temp gun on the exhaust manifold to locate the dead or missing cylinder. If no specific cylinder appears, the water cooled aftercooler may have failed. The device is beneath the blower. If you have a cylinder or two that isn't running, the problem gets more complicated. You may wish to pull the 3 inspection covers beneath the RH exhaust manifold and see if water runs out of a cylinder (s). If the whole RH airbox has water in it, back to the aftercooler. If not, see what has water dripping. A little air pressure (5 lbs?) on the cooling system may help the increase the leak so that you can see the origination point. Close off the front heater gate valves before pressurizing the system. If it were my bus, I'd isolate the engine from the cooling (radiators) system too. Just pressurize the engine with water. Forcing water into an engine isn't as damaging as forcing antifreeze into the engine. Water could be coming from a cylinder sleeve (liner) "O" ring. If the engine has been recently heated up, liner "O" ring failure becomes likely. Your problem could be related to other failures in the RH head cracks, injector tubes...water would likely have to go into the cylinder to get pushed into the airbox. You cannot run the engine with the inspection covers removed. Sounds like you've got a problem of consequence. Are you certain that water is dribbling out of the airbox drains, and not oil? If the oil is still clean, and no water contamination, you may save the engine. If the oil has water mixed into the oil (cream colored, and oil level higher than normal), find another engine. If water is in the oil pan, I wouldn't operate the engine. At a minimum, once the leak is repaired, the pan should be pulled and the bearings checked for galling. JR | ||
| Don Fairchild (Don_fairchild)
Registered Member Username: Don_fairchild Post Number: 14 Registered: 3-2007 Posted From: 66.17.9.74 Rating: |
C.W reading your report on the other board I think you have a bad injector tube or a cracked head. Don | ||
| c.w Van Hagen (Van)
Registered Member Username: Van Post Number: 53 Registered: 7-2008 Posted From: 72.193.19.183 Rating: N/A |
JR/DON thank you for your reply motor was running great as in my other post( radiator swap) motor was not over heated for too much time,only noticed the water coming out of the r hand breather tube as I was refilling the cooling system after i insalled the new rad.Only then (after finnally getting engine started)did I see water come from the joints of the exhaust leading to the turbo at which point the water stopped coming out and the motor ran fine with no unusual noise and had full power which enabled me to move the bus back to it's parking spot . let motor idle for about one half hour to 45 min before temp rose to about 200 degrees ,also out side air temp was already at 109 degrees | ||
| c.w Van Hagen (Van)
Registered Member Username: Van Post Number: 56 Registered: 7-2008 Posted From: 72.193.19.183 Rating: N/A |
Pulled the air box covers on each side ,wired fuel shut off arm in off position,re filled system with water and saw water tricking into the first cyl ony on the r/h side and the first and middle cyl only on the l/h side drained the water from system ,was able to jog the engine around easily so I could peer into each cyl thru the sleeve holes from what I was able to observe of the cyl walls and and the rings looked pretty decent.closed up covers and dropped the pan ,found no water in pan,and did not appear to be contaminated.Rolled engine over a few mor times with no water in system turned easily and did not notice any unusual noises in the engine,could it be bad injector tubes or bad sleeve o-rings ? | ||
| Jack Campbell (Blue_goose)
Registered Member Username: Blue_goose Post Number: 96 Registered: 5-2007 Posted From: 71.100.201.35  Rating: N/A |
If you have run it hot more than likely the head is crecked. Will cost less if it is the tubes. You have to pull it down to find out what it is. If you are going to do it yourself you will need some type of lift to pick the heads up and some studes to set it back on with. Jack | ||
| c.w Van Hagen (Van)
Registered Member Username: Van Post Number: 61 Registered: 7-2008 Posted From: 72.193.19.183 Rating: N/A |
Sorry for the tardyness in getting back to you guys,as it turns out you were right Jack heads are both cracked. Don fairchild was gracious enough to go out of his way to come help and inspect the engine after I pulled the heads .Motor looked pretty good sleves need just a little cleaning up.Don said he will have a set of heads set up soon for me to reinstall.Guess I lucked out as this could have been much worse.While I am waiting for the heads I have been going through every thing I can think of to get the engine ready .Am hoping to make first trip out to NYC for xmass.will post up date as things progress thanks all Van |
